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Hmmmm...I will need to call and figure that out then. From what I was told by the dealership I bought the truck from, they have 200A alts on the new 2.7 and 3.5 ecos. May be throwing a custom 350 in sooner than later if that’s not the case though. Thanks for the info.
I’m planning on changing to a new Northstar AGM at some point and I don’t compete or drive my amps into clipped signals An aftermarket 350A alternator may be in the works at some point, but for now my goal is to maximize the output from the stock alternator. The stock alternator with solid wiring and a better batt should keep the voltage drops to a minimum.
Originally Posted by NDoc
System isn’t done yet. Everything is wired and new comps and coaxs are already run off the 125. The 6 subs are coming soon.
3500rms pushing 6 subs and the rest and you think the stock alt is going to handle that? good luck my friend. you may be ok if you keep the volume to 1/4 of it's potential but that's about the only way i see it happening.
the agm battery is a great option but it won't necessarily be more "powerful" than a comparable lead-acid version. as i am sure you are aware the electrical system is powered by the alt, not the battery. it is there for starting and as a supplement if the current draw is great than the alt can handle, and i'd bet you a year's worth of gas your system it going to exceed that by a large amount.
Well aware. If I’m playing sine waves or competing then I would be concerned. With transients, assuming the stock alt is 200A - will be just fine. It will handle it fine up to a clipped signal and before the efficiency takes a crap. And if you’re talking max SPL, you’re talking MAYBE a couple hundred watt gain into a clipped signal with a HO alternator at the wattage I’m
running. Unless you’re on a meter or amp dyno, you’re not going to notice the difference with music. I went through the same thinking with my Explorer (which I did play sine waves with). From stock alt (120A I think) to 300A and another battery, I went from a 149-151 but that was with sound deadenig
and box modification- so those are confounders. Didnt notice any difference when playing music but it did get me above 150 on the Termlab. Ditched the extra battery and it didn’t make a difference unless the vehicle was on.
Been doing this long enough to know when you’re need an upgrade vs when I don’t. This is what is in my Explorer and did fine with the stock alt.
to anyone who stumbles across this thread, just ask yourself - do you really think ford left enough headroom in the electrical system to not only sufficiently power everything the car needs but have enough left over to power a 2000rms class d amp (running at less than 1ohm) and a 125rms x 4 class ab 4 channel amp at the same time, on a 200a alt that puts out around 100-130a at anything below 2,000rpm?
My Explorer is running similar power to my F150, ALL old school class AB’s with efficiency not higher than 63%. AgaIn, while maybe significant on the meter, not noticeable with music. The proof is in the numbers. For daily driving, the stock alternator will do fine for now and to suggest it can’t be higher than “1/4 volume” is a little absurd. Again, maybe talking a couple hundred watts transiently at high volumes, which is not going to be noticeable when you’re in the 145db range. The battery can handle the extra transient current needed when the alternator isn’t able to fully supply. Yes there will be more of voltage drop than with a HO alt, but the amps aren’t going to shut down or the vehicle shut off, etc. Again, sine waves are completely different than music and as long as you’re not clipping the signal and crushing your efficiency, it’s going to have plenty of output.
Subs installed. More pics to follow. No significant light dimming or voltage drops so far. Will meter soon. Probably somewhere in the 140db range though. Respectable for an under the seat setup.
Not bad for working with under 2 gross internal. Ported? Must have been a tough fit number wise. I was going to do 4 DD 506's but ended up just taking out the unattached seat (don't have kids yet and rarely have more then 4 passengers) and threw in a 15" Fi SSD Neo. I actually just sold the 15" and think I am going to build an 18" BTL Neo setup now. Overkill but some temporary fun.
Nice! You have a lot more options once you start ripping out seats, that’s for sure.
My enclosure is ported, tuned to 30hz. Wasn’t too tight at all. Had more than enough airspace. They only need about .3 per sub. They’re on par with a pair of ported 12’s and handle the power I throw at them just fine. Again, expecting somewhere in the 140-145 range just “earballing” it. I wanted to retain complete functionality and a near compete stock appearance. Also, absolutely no alterations to the vehicle aside from the holes in the Molex connectors and firewall gromet. Carpet is all intact on the rear firewall and the stock bolts were all used as anchor points for the amp racks. Basically as clean as you could ask for.
I'm trying to figure out how you fit this so I can follow suit future. The most gross internal volume I could figure (without raising seat) was 2ft3 even. Subtract approximate displacements and you're left with MAYBE 1.25 net which would leave about .2 per sub. You must be getting gross somewhere I am not. Whats your secret? The seat isn't lifted?
You guys are awesome. Love seeing this stuff compared to my normal day to day builds.
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01-18-2018, 07:49 PM
