Best Easy Stereo Upgrade Path for 2015 Lariat
07-03-2018, 06:08 AM
#1
Best Easy Stereo Upgrade Path for 2015 Lariat
I'm looking at buying a 2015 F-150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4. It is pretty loaded, including navigation with an 8" touch-screen, but it has the standard stereo system. If it had the upgraded Sony system, I'm sure I would be happy with it. I've read through this forum, and I see that people do some very significant system upgrades that can take many hours of work and cost well over $1,000. I'm sure they sound great. I don't want to give up any of the factory functionality (Sync, etc.). Unless there is a compelling reason to replace it, I'd prefer to keep the OEM head unit. I'm assuming that a more powerful amplifier and upgraded speakers would be worthwhile. I don't want to compromise my back seat storage area with large subwoofers. I do want to be able to easily access music stored on a memory stick (or something similar). I'm not looking for a super-loud system or exaggerated bass - just good, clean sound. I would probably do the installation myself (I've installed a few basic car stereo systems over the years).
What would you recommend as the best upgrade path to improve the sound and functionality (ideally, without tearing apart the whole vehicle interior and spending a lot of money)? I'm essentially looking to upgrade to something equivalent to the Sony premium system or better. Sorry if I'm asking something obvious, but I don't have experience installing car audio systems since touch-screens, voice control, DSP, etc. became common, so I'm not sure how these all interact in a modern system. Thanks.
What would you recommend as the best upgrade path to improve the sound and functionality (ideally, without tearing apart the whole vehicle interior and spending a lot of money)? I'm essentially looking to upgrade to something equivalent to the Sony premium system or better. Sorry if I'm asking something obvious, but I don't have experience installing car audio systems since touch-screens, voice control, DSP, etc. became common, so I'm not sure how these all interact in a modern system. Thanks.
07-03-2018, 11:21 AM
#2
Senior Member
Keep the OEM head unit. Do a little bit of research on Forscan and defeat the factory EQ. There is no reason to replace the factory HU unless you need more features.
Easy upgrade (under $1000):
1. Replace the stock speakers with aftermarket. There are lots of brands to choose from. Your truck has 6x9 components in the front and 6.5 coaxials in the rear.
2. Add a small subwoofer with an appropriate class D mono amplifier under the rear seat. A single 10 or 12 would suffice. There is a thread on how to tap into the rear speakers for a signal.
Harder upgrade (possibly over $1000):
1. Same as above.
2. Do more forscan research and convert the speaker outputs from the stock head unit into low level RCA outputs. Get a 5channel amplifier to power the front, rear, and subs.
3. Add two shallow mount subwoofers under the rear seat.
Either upgrade path is better then the Sony system.
Easy upgrade (under $1000):
1. Replace the stock speakers with aftermarket. There are lots of brands to choose from. Your truck has 6x9 components in the front and 6.5 coaxials in the rear.
2. Add a small subwoofer with an appropriate class D mono amplifier under the rear seat. A single 10 or 12 would suffice. There is a thread on how to tap into the rear speakers for a signal.
Harder upgrade (possibly over $1000):
1. Same as above.
2. Do more forscan research and convert the speaker outputs from the stock head unit into low level RCA outputs. Get a 5channel amplifier to power the front, rear, and subs.
3. Add two shallow mount subwoofers under the rear seat.
Either upgrade path is better then the Sony system.
07-03-2018, 11:52 AM
#3
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I'd go with a Rockford DSR 1 for the Sony system. I have a 15 Lariat with the Sony and at first the system was alright. I've always been into car audio though so I knew I'd get the upgrade bug eventually. I went with a DSR1 and the harness that keeps all the OEM connections.
I have 2 Skar Audio 4 Channel Class D mini amps running to the mids and highs and 1 JBL GTR 1001 to power sub. The amps are easily mounted behind the rear seat.
I am running PRV mids for the doors and JBL tweeters in the stock locations. It really sounds great for the money I've put into it. I am running an Adire Audio Shiva Mk3 in a 13.5" sealed enclosure. There is plenty bass once you add in the cabin gain.
I ran a 0 gauge power wire from the battery to the rear of the truck and it will fit under the stock plastic covers near the door. I fed the 0 gauge into a 3 way power distribution block to each amp. My grounds are run into a ground distribution block and bolted to the bolt behind the rear seat that holds the bracket in.
I paid $200 for the DSR1 less then $200 for the 2 Skar audio amps, Mids were around $104 from parts express, JBL was around $180 from Crutchfield and the Shiva I've had for years and years. The only issue I've encountered is my DSR is not working so I have to send it in for warranty but no major deal.
The nice thing about the whole setup though is that if I decided to sell the truck I can remove everything and reinstall all the OEM equipment easily. It keeps all functions of the factory head unit in tact as well and works flawlessly especially since the new updates. I also have a huge range of tuning and crossovers for the speakers. My mids are bandpassed at 80hz high pass and 3.75hz low pass. Tweets are cross at 3.75 High Pass. Sub is low pass at 80hz. All are cut with a 12db slope and EQed to my tastes with time alignment done as well.
I have 2 Skar Audio 4 Channel Class D mini amps running to the mids and highs and 1 JBL GTR 1001 to power sub. The amps are easily mounted behind the rear seat.
I am running PRV mids for the doors and JBL tweeters in the stock locations. It really sounds great for the money I've put into it. I am running an Adire Audio Shiva Mk3 in a 13.5" sealed enclosure. There is plenty bass once you add in the cabin gain.
I ran a 0 gauge power wire from the battery to the rear of the truck and it will fit under the stock plastic covers near the door. I fed the 0 gauge into a 3 way power distribution block to each amp. My grounds are run into a ground distribution block and bolted to the bolt behind the rear seat that holds the bracket in.
I paid $200 for the DSR1 less then $200 for the 2 Skar audio amps, Mids were around $104 from parts express, JBL was around $180 from Crutchfield and the Shiva I've had for years and years. The only issue I've encountered is my DSR is not working so I have to send it in for warranty but no major deal.
The nice thing about the whole setup though is that if I decided to sell the truck I can remove everything and reinstall all the OEM equipment easily. It keeps all functions of the factory head unit in tact as well and works flawlessly especially since the new updates. I also have a huge range of tuning and crossovers for the speakers. My mids are bandpassed at 80hz high pass and 3.75hz low pass. Tweets are cross at 3.75 High Pass. Sub is low pass at 80hz. All are cut with a 12db slope and EQed to my tastes with time alignment done as well.
07-03-2018, 11:58 AM
#4
I have the Kicker Soundgate system. Sounds A LOT better over stock and it is plug and play...no need for ForScan. Comes with 8" sub/enclosure, door speakers and a DSP...all matched. I installed mine in 3hours. Won't void warranties.
AK4wheeler
AK4wheeler
07-04-2018, 09:56 AM
#6
Senior Member
If you have the non-Sony stereo, you won't need the Rockford DSR 1 (that is only required if you have a factory amp). If you can get your hands on a amp/dsp combo (something like the Audison AP8.9 Bit...love mine!) you won't regret it. This would get you a solid foundation that you can build off of. It can easily handle powering your speakers and then a small 8" or 10" sub as well. From there I would then look at upgrading your speakers. Just my $0.02.
07-04-2018, 10:13 AM
#7
I'd go with a Rockford DSR 1 for the Sony system. I have a 15 Lariat with the Sony and at first the system was alright. I've always been into car audio though so I knew I'd get the upgrade bug eventually. I went with a DSR1 and the harness that keeps all the OEM connections.
I have 2 Skar Audio 4 Channel Class D mini amps running to the mids and highs and 1 JBL GTR 1001 to power sub. The amps are easily mounted behind the rear seat.
I am running PRV mids for the doors and JBL tweeters in the stock locations. It really sounds great for the money I've put into it. I am running an Adire Audio Shiva Mk3 in a 13.5" sealed enclosure. There is plenty bass once you add in the cabin gain.
I ran a 0 gauge power wire from the battery to the rear of the truck and it will fit under the stock plastic covers near the door. I fed the 0 gauge into a 3 way power distribution block to each amp. My grounds are run into a ground distribution block and bolted to the bolt behind the rear seat that holds the bracket in.
I paid $200 for the DSR1 less then $200 for the 2 Skar audio amps, Mids were around $104 from parts express, JBL was around $180 from Crutchfield and the Shiva I've had for years and years. The only issue I've encountered is my DSR is not working so I have to send it in for warranty but no major deal.
The nice thing about the whole setup though is that if I decided to sell the truck I can remove everything and reinstall all the OEM equipment easily. It keeps all functions of the factory head unit in tact as well and works flawlessly especially since the new updates. I also have a huge range of tuning and crossovers for the speakers. My mids are bandpassed at 80hz high pass and 3.75hz low pass. Tweets are cross at 3.75 High Pass. Sub is low pass at 80hz. All are cut with a 12db slope and EQed to my tastes with time alignment done as well.
I have 2 Skar Audio 4 Channel Class D mini amps running to the mids and highs and 1 JBL GTR 1001 to power sub. The amps are easily mounted behind the rear seat.
I am running PRV mids for the doors and JBL tweeters in the stock locations. It really sounds great for the money I've put into it. I am running an Adire Audio Shiva Mk3 in a 13.5" sealed enclosure. There is plenty bass once you add in the cabin gain.
I ran a 0 gauge power wire from the battery to the rear of the truck and it will fit under the stock plastic covers near the door. I fed the 0 gauge into a 3 way power distribution block to each amp. My grounds are run into a ground distribution block and bolted to the bolt behind the rear seat that holds the bracket in.
I paid $200 for the DSR1 less then $200 for the 2 Skar audio amps, Mids were around $104 from parts express, JBL was around $180 from Crutchfield and the Shiva I've had for years and years. The only issue I've encountered is my DSR is not working so I have to send it in for warranty but no major deal.
The nice thing about the whole setup though is that if I decided to sell the truck I can remove everything and reinstall all the OEM equipment easily. It keeps all functions of the factory head unit in tact as well and works flawlessly especially since the new updates. I also have a huge range of tuning and crossovers for the speakers. My mids are bandpassed at 80hz high pass and 3.75hz low pass. Tweets are cross at 3.75 High Pass. Sub is low pass at 80hz. All are cut with a 12db slope and EQed to my tastes with time alignment done as well.
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07-04-2018, 11:04 AM
#8
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-If I understand correctly, to replace factory speakers, its best to put coaxials (6x9s) in the door and a separate tweeter in the pillar since the HU already splits the signal, correct? Then just 6.5s in the rear doors.
-Is it worth replacing the 3 1/2" center channel speaker? Ive read a lot of mixed reviews on this. I know in Home Audio/Theater your center channel is one of the key components but i dont believe the signal and dialogue are broken up in car audio quite like they are in home audio which is why most people dont seem to care to bother with it even though its just two screws to pull off the grill and swap out the speaker
-Is it worth replacing the 3 1/2" center channel speaker? Ive read a lot of mixed reviews on this. I know in Home Audio/Theater your center channel is one of the key components but i dont believe the signal and dialogue are broken up in car audio quite like they are in home audio which is why most people dont seem to care to bother with it even though its just two screws to pull off the grill and swap out the speaker
07-04-2018, 01:02 PM
#9
Senior Member
You want 6.5" components in the fronts and put the coaxials in the rear doors. Forget about the center speaker...many just unhook it all together. With proper time delay and processing (this is where a dsp is worth it's weight in gold) you won't even know it's not there.
Last edited by Ajb1205; 07-04-2018 at 01:12 PM.
07-05-2018, 10:16 AM
#10
Senior Member
6x9 components for the front, 6.5 coaxials for the rears. IF you plan to add a sub, you can do 6.5 components in the front. 6.5s typically won't have as much mid-bass as 6x9.
If you're not going to add an amp for the door speakers, look at the JBL Club or Infinity Primus for good budget speakers. Being 3 ohm speakers, they will pull a bit more power from the head unit, but not enough to cause clipping. Another great option right now is Focal's Intergration speakers (ISS 690 for front, ISC 165 for rear). The Focals can be had for less than half MSRP right now on Crutchfield. I just installed them in my truck and they're great, even without an amp on them yet.
Note: Crutchfield says the ISC 165 doesn't fit. It does. Their clearance measurement for the rear speakers is wrong (they say there's 0.48" when in fact there's about one full inch).
If you want a small step up from that, look at the Kicker Key amp. Several people here are running one and really like it. (I'll be installing mine next week). It has a built-in DSP with EQ and time alignment that's auto adjusted with an audio track. Only downside is that the DSP/EQ can't be manually adjusted, but it can be bypassed if you choose.
If you're not going to add an amp for the door speakers, look at the JBL Club or Infinity Primus for good budget speakers. Being 3 ohm speakers, they will pull a bit more power from the head unit, but not enough to cause clipping. Another great option right now is Focal's Intergration speakers (ISS 690 for front, ISC 165 for rear). The Focals can be had for less than half MSRP right now on Crutchfield. I just installed them in my truck and they're great, even without an amp on them yet.
Note: Crutchfield says the ISC 165 doesn't fit. It does. Their clearance measurement for the rear speakers is wrong (they say there's 0.48" when in fact there's about one full inch).
If you want a small step up from that, look at the Kicker Key amp. Several people here are running one and really like it. (I'll be installing mine next week). It has a built-in DSP with EQ and time alignment that's auto adjusted with an audio track. Only downside is that the DSP/EQ can't be manually adjusted, but it can be bypassed if you choose.
Last edited by tenx82; 07-05-2018 at 10:18 AM.