Amp & Dual Voice Coil Hookup
#1
Amp & Dual Voice Coil Hookup
I have a Soundstorm F2.800 amp and a Audiobohn AWC10T dual voice coil speaker.
Here are the specs:
Amp:
Max power 2 ohm 400W X 2
RMS power 4 ohm 160W X 2
Bridged power 4 ohm 800W X 1
Dimensions (9-1/8" L x 10" W x 2-7/16" H)
Tri-mode operation
Bridgeable
2 Ohm Stereo Stable
Variable low pass crossover: 40-150Hz
Fixed high pass crossover (200Hz)
Variable 0 to +18dB Bass Boost
Speaker:
Sensitivity: 92.3 dB
RMS Power Range : 50-400 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 800 Watts
Impedance: Dual 4 Ohm
Low Frequency response: 25 Hz
High Frequency Response: 800 Hz
Diameter: 10 Inch
Do you think I can run this speaker at 2ohms with the amp? The amp shows 800wX1 @ 4ohms so that makes me think No...
Thanks for the help.
Here are the specs:
Amp:
Max power 2 ohm 400W X 2
RMS power 4 ohm 160W X 2
Bridged power 4 ohm 800W X 1
Dimensions (9-1/8" L x 10" W x 2-7/16" H)
Tri-mode operation
Bridgeable
2 Ohm Stereo Stable
Variable low pass crossover: 40-150Hz
Fixed high pass crossover (200Hz)
Variable 0 to +18dB Bass Boost
Speaker:
Sensitivity: 92.3 dB
RMS Power Range : 50-400 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 800 Watts
Impedance: Dual 4 Ohm
Low Frequency response: 25 Hz
High Frequency Response: 800 Hz
Diameter: 10 Inch
Do you think I can run this speaker at 2ohms with the amp? The amp shows 800wX1 @ 4ohms so that makes me think No...
Thanks for the help.
#2
First Tiger of G.R.O.S.S.
Based on this:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...orm_F2800.aspx
I'd say that it would not be 2ohm stable in bridged mode... it would probably overheat.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...orm_F2800.aspx
I'd say that it would not be 2ohm stable in bridged mode... it would probably overheat.
#3
It's not stable running 2 ohm bridged.
Run each voice col off of the separate channels...that's pretty much the only way...you should've gotten either a single voice coil speaker or a dual 2ohm speaker....or a different amp.
Run each voice col off of the separate channels...that's pretty much the only way...you should've gotten either a single voice coil speaker or a dual 2ohm speaker....or a different amp.
#5
First Tiger of G.R.O.S.S.
don't do this. it will work for a while but it will ultimately break your amp... you'll be back in here in a few weeks with "my amp goes into protection after 5 mins, I can't figure out why!"
#7
That's why it says if it doesn't work switch it... Whatever though don't take advice I dont kno anything about running amps under rated impedance.
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#8
Then he gets to buy a new amp when if you read the specs, you already know it won't work. Not to mention the amp will be putting out more power than the sub is designed to take running bridged on 2ohm. So he may just burn both of them up at once.
OP - honestly, if you bought these items new, i would really try to return one of them and get something that works better together.
#9
Forums are funny.,.. Ask a simple question and get slammed with criticism about the shuff you buy... When you have a $1 budget you get what you can for and deal with the rest... Both the rating at 800w is peak power... RMS is a lot less so each coil will get 160w RMS... That is not bad for the crap I got... I am not looking to blow the windows out (obviously)
#10
First Tiger of G.R.O.S.S.
I think the point he was making was not that you bought bad gear, but that it was not matched very well. That is no reflection of the quality of either the AMP or the subs, but a reflection of how they work together.
Very inexpensive gear that is well matched and tuned can often provide a significantly better result than expensive gear that is poorly matched and improperly tuned.
In your case, lower-rated subs my yield a better result then the ones you have as they would match the amp.... most forum people, however, would recommend upgrading the amp to match the subs as it typically the thought is to match the best performing piece in the chain, instead of conforming to the lowest common denominator.
That being said, the AMP you have would be a pretty good amp to run door speakers with, assuming you didn't care about fading front/back.
Very inexpensive gear that is well matched and tuned can often provide a significantly better result than expensive gear that is poorly matched and improperly tuned.
In your case, lower-rated subs my yield a better result then the ones you have as they would match the amp.... most forum people, however, would recommend upgrading the amp to match the subs as it typically the thought is to match the best performing piece in the chain, instead of conforming to the lowest common denominator.
That being said, the AMP you have would be a pretty good amp to run door speakers with, assuming you didn't care about fading front/back.