microbe0511

For all the F150 audio fanatics,

I ordered via Amazon the Parrot FOR-11CK to install a DSP and 5 channel amp and I received a FOR-11Mki instead. Concerned that I received the wrong part, I called Ken (the seller) at Safewireless asking if there was a mistake. He informed me that these two harnesses are the same less the square connector that we don't need or use for the stereo/amp upgrade.

This is the part in the FOR-11-CK that is not needed;





This is the harness I received;

RLXXI

N/M I see the wire locations are printed right on the insulation.
.

PistolWhip

Why does it require an additional fuse and power wire? The only purpose of this is to create a break in the speaker wires for signal processing and then signal return, correct? Is there something else that this harness does, that requires the additional power?

microbe0511

If you are not powering and additional device, then its not used. I used the power wire from the harnass to power my JL Audio Fix86.

PistolWhip

Oh ok, that makes sense. So it doesn't draw power from the radio to act as a trigger, you have to wire it to the fuse box separately?

microbe0511

Sorry not clear what you are asking. Does what draw power from the radio? That fused power wire?

PistolWhip

Yes sir. Does that wire supply a switched power from the factory harness, or does it just supply you with an extra wire to tap into the fuse box for switched power out to a DSP / Amp?

PistolWhip

Also, while I have you. I see you used a fix86, do you have a factory amplified system, or do you use that on a non-premium set up?

Essentially what I'm doing is adding an amplifier to a non-Sony 2018 XLT with 8" screen and navigation. I'm curious if I even need a DSP for that system, or if basically all of the speakers are already receiving full range at the speaker terminal. If it's all full range out of the factory head unit, a DSP or signal summing / correction device shouldn't be needed. Maybe just a line out converter.

microbe0511

Ah ok. To your first question the harnass power wire is NOT a remote turn on. For my set uo I ran a remote turn on wire to the Fix86 remote in from fuse slot #23 using an add a fuse tap. From the Fix86 I use the remote out to daisy chain the remote In on my JL TWK88 and from the remote out on that to the remote in on my amp.

I have the non-Sony version with the 8' screen. I strongly advise using an OEM integration device like the Fix 86 or Fix 82 to clean up the factory signal. There are other products out there as well. I do not recommend amping the factory signal. It will not sound very good. Some folks here use the Audio Control LCQ but many seem not to be happy with the result.

Look for my thread titles "The adventure begins...". It summaries my entire build.

PistolWhip

Awesome! Thank you again!