joemomma

Still in the planning stages for my build ('16XLT 7 speaker non-Sony) and I've decided I want to go with components up front (6.5"). I'll run the tweeters in the factory location and run new wire to them from the crossovers behind the dash. I'm planning to run a 5 channel amp, so power will be moderate (50-75wpc). It's been years since I've been in the mobile game, and I see a lot of familiar faces and many new ones I've never heard of. How do these newer brands compare to the "old standards" like Alpine, MBQ, Infinity, etc? I see NVX - I believe that is Sonic's house brand? They have excellent reviews. Hertz? Priced similar to Alpine - depending on model - and have good reviews as well. I'd like to keep it around $200 give or take for both the front and rear speakers. This gives me the following options:
Alpine Type R components and Type S rears ~$230
NXV "mid model" components and coax ~ $120 - cheapest option by far with excellent reviews. Just an unknown brand to me.
Hertz DSK/DCX components and coax ~ $200
Of course there are Polks, JBLs, and Infinity models that fit in that budget as well.

The rest of the system will be a single 12, probably an Alpine. I'm leaning towards the Pioneer 5 channel amp to push everything.

nineball

in that price range most of them are going to perform in a very similar manner. i personally never really cared for the alpine type-r set - hated the tweeter. too harsh for my tastes.

nvx is sonic's house brand. generally their products get decent reviews. i have personally never used anything they make.

i would highly suggest you look into the alpine pdx v9 for your amp. it's compact, looks good, does over rated specs and sounds great.

Kanadian-kaos

Not sure what truck you have, but be careful with the 12inch subs because very few will fit. Generally, a shallow subwoofer will give you less install headaches.

joemomma

Oops, should have mentioned it's a SCrew. My biggest concern with the 12 is mounting depth, it may require a relief cut into the box directly behind the woofer. I'm planning to mount it under the driver side portion of the rear seat. "Ideal" sealed specs are 0.75ft3 for the Alpine Type S, which I can get in a down-firing box per my mesurements. It's going to be tight vertically, but I have some extra width to play with. The top-mount depth is 5 7/8", which will be SUPER tight on a box that slopes from 7" to 5.5" front to rear. I've never used a shallow mount sub, but I've been watching that thread on here about them. I think the JL may be out of my budget, honestly - especially if I go a different amp route. If that Type S isn't doable, I'll look at some shallow options. I had a single 12 Type S in my last (car) install, and liked the sound. I just needed more amp on it. I may just go ahead and make up the box and see what I have to work with.

Good info on the Type R set - that's got me leaning towards the Hertz. I don't do harsh tweets either.

That Alpine amp is nice, but out of my budget. I was looking to keep the whole budget around $700. My other hobbies (pewpew) interfere with my disposable income lol. The wife is already about to shoot me as it is, with talk of lifts, tires, and wheels.

nineball

check out some car audio forums like diyma.com. i picked up my pdx v9 for under $300 shipped used there. can probably get some much better used speakers in your price range as well.

joemomma

Good advice, thanks! I've been watch FB and a local sales website here, there's always some kids selling stuff.

nineball

an alternative you may not have considered is to forget about the rear speakers and spend the cash on a better front stage. the v9 amp has the ability to bandpass so you can use it to power the mids and tweets active and still have your sub channel. think about a concert - how many speakers are behind you?

joemomma

That's a good point I hadn't considered. I did something similar in a Lincoln LS I had several years ago. It had the base stereo and it was pretty pathetic, honestly.

joemomma

HushCarAudio

Honestly, I didn't hear much of a difference at all when I upgraded my rear speakers. That being said it would probably be best for you to spend all that budget on a great set of front speakers instead. I'm fairly certain most on this forum will tell you the same results. Let me know if you want pricing on anything via PM please. I've beaten every shop price locally and online. I also ship pretty quickly.

As for the LC7i suggestion, I'd love to sell you more product but honestly using a $30 OBD2 tool and using the Forescan is your best option for a super clean low powered signal. It gets rid of the bass roll off and any equalization from the OEM head unit. Just double check to see if it will work on your truck. I don't know the year and type of system you currently have so I can't say if this option will work for you or not. If it can work for you, then simply order a couple speaker wire to RCA adapters to plug into your amp.