Kanadian-kaos

Sold my car which had a massive system with 2500 real watts RMS, but snagged some gear out of it before I sold it (my 5 channel soundstream, so nice, and my DQXS, also nice).

Going to fully deaden (100sqft), close cell foam decoupler (100sqft), mass load vinyl (100sqft) the interior.... maybe even the ceiling (I have a panorama sunroof, not much for panels up there). In fact the install materials are going to cost more than the electronics going into the truck. I am a firm believer in a solid install as a basis for a great system. Some areas will get extra (double) treatments: front foot wells, rear wall and above exhaust to further quiet the interior. All the doors are also getting removable deadened HDPE covers to seal those large openings in the metal.

Electronics:

Amplifiers:

1. Soundstream Ref5.1000. Powering a 2 way active front stage and a subwoofer (95x4 +460x1). Sounds and looks so nice. Love this amplifier.
2. Soundtream PN2.350D. Cheap/small/hideable 2 channel class D amplifier for the rear coaxials for the kids (100x2). Last system had no kid speakers and they complained that all they heard was bass since the subwoofers were only a couple of feet away from their heads.

DSP:

1. Audicontrol DQXS /w DDC. It will receive flat low level inputs once I forscan my truck. 31 bands of eq. Active digital crossover. Real nice and simple DSP, but it does lack time alignment.

Speakers:

1. Image Dynamics XS69, 6x9 midbass for the front. Going in the doors on HDPE baffles /w XTC "umbrellas" and fast rings.
2. Image Dynamics XS28, Tweeters going in custom fiberglass a pillars close to on axis.
3. Image Dynamics CTX65, Rear coaxials for the kiddos. Same treatment in doors as front.
4. Peerless Tymphany 3.5 center /w passive bandpass from 125hz-15,000hz, rocker toggle switch to turn it off, and L pad to attentuate it when it is on. (It is cheap and can't hurt to try!)
5. JL Audio 12TW3 D4, Going under a full length down firing under seat enclosure. I am copying the finishing of MTI Acoustics (carpet on top, faux leather on front /w stitching, no logo, same round edges to match the seat contours). Tuned with two 3 inch ports to 28-30hz. subwoofer in the middle, ports on the front far left and far right firing forwards. I was going to try to stick two JL 10w1v3 under there, but there is not quite enough room unless I build a "hump" on top and I don't want to do that. I had two hertz 12inch HX300D's sealed with 1500RMS watts in the car and they sounded amazing but that was way more low end bass than I need.

I am also going to throw in a Stinger 5farad Hybrid Capacitor that I have lying around even though it is not needed with the watts/amps I am using. Max 100amp current draw since I will be barely over 1000 watts total.

It is going to take a while to build as it will have to be during my "spare time". Last time it took me a year I am going to gut the truck first and sound deaden it and run all the wires, then install the rear speakers (as they can be run off the stock system for a bit), then build and install the amp rack, then fabricate/install the front speakers, then build/install the subwoofer enclosure.

Here are the a pillars I had in my car (Hertz MLK 165 speakers). I am going to do something similar in my F150, but only wrap them in black headliner material up to the first line below the grab handle. Probably going to put them slightly closer to the windshield too.

These are the beauties I snagged out of my car. They will fit in a similar configuration behind the rear seat in the F150. The new PN2.350 amplifier is so small that I am going to hide it behind the DQXS while the DQXS will be on a fold down panel to access the little amp behind it if I ever have to:

nineball

the picasso nano amps are surprisingly decent. i run the 4.1000 in both my bike and my old cj-7.

what are you going to power your center channel with? you seem to be one amp channel short

generally speaking you want your center channel to be on par with your front stage, but without time alignment i don't think it will matter much. t/a would be a huge improvement and really open your ears so to speak to the things you can achieve with it. once properly tuned if you close your eyes it can sound like the entire band is sitting on your dash and with certain recordings, like the eagles hell freezes over album, you can actually point to where each musician is relative to where they were when it was recorded. it's pretty cool.

a couple points you may not know about.

the cld does not need 100% coverage. anything more than 25-30% on large flat panels and you are wasting time and materials. the ccf and mlv do need 100% and be sure to seal all the seams as well.

don't bother with the cap, it won't really matter. have a look at this page and it will explain it all.

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/ac...capacitor.html

Kanadian-kaos

Center channel supposedly retains stock HU power even after Forscan low level conversion. It is not going to be on par with the front stage as I am going to make it so you can barely hear it hence the L pad to turn it way down... and passive crossover so it does not play super high frequencies (which would be bouncing off the glass, I may even go with a 12,500 low pass). I should be able to dial it in. If it sounds like crap at high volumes, I can turn it off with a switch.

I had time alignment in my last car via the headunit. I use to dial it in to the driver side... sucked for passengers. However, even with TA off, it sounded really good in my car as the tweeters were on axis. Plus, I like the my old school DQXS too much to sacrifice it for another DSP /w time alignment. The DQXS acts as line driver and puts out quite high voltage via the RCA's so I can keep the gains way down on my amplifier and have zero noise.

CLD, yes, I am aware of that. I just enjoy overkill, plus I am doing the inner and outer door skins so I needed more than 50sqft. I will probably have lots of extra.

I know the CAP is not needed, but it also provides me with a remote wire distribution point. I already have it, and it is not going to take up space so I am going to use it rather than throwing it out.

Kanadian-kaos

Center channel in. Peerless Tymphany 3.5" 8 ohm. I highpassed it via an inline capacitor at 100hz and installed a L-pad to control the volume. I was going to install an inline kill switch, but the L-pad does the same thing. You can barely see the **** when sitting in the driver's seat. It sounds best at about 3/4 volume, draws the soundstage to the middle but you can't hear the middle speaker. I can tell when it is off. The rest of the system is still stock.

Kanadian-kaos

Gosh darn it. 5 months and I have not got anything else done! Luckily life slows down a little in the winter.

Going to change some things up.

Adding a Dayton DSP 408 for time alignment but keeping my DQXS as it has more EQ and acts as a line driver (it will be downstream from the 408). 350hz and up into the DQXS. DQXS will now split a signal and feed 350hz-4k to a set of Scanspeak 10F in the a pillars, 4k up to XS28 tweeters in a pillars also. Class AB Ref5.1000 will power the midrange and tweeters. Midbass and midrange/tweet will still be able to be time aligned but not the midrange/tweet sepearately. It won't matter as they will be inches apart.

Going with a RN4.1400d for a little more power to the X69 midbasses and the two extra channels will power the rear doors.

As soon as the 10f's arrive I will start working on the pillars as those are going to be a PITA.

HushCarAudio

Man looks like a fun build. Hope all moves smoothly for you.