2018 B&O Play upgrade: Part one
#71
Now I have too decided on speakers lol. Not sure if I should go with a two way or 3 way 6x9s for the doors. Also don't know if I want to run 2 10s under the seats or try and find a good sub to fit the factory sub box behind the seat already. Kim either gonna go with focal ot infinity so at least I know that much 😁
#72
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Now I have too decided on speakers lol. Not sure if I should go with a two way or 3 way 6x9s for the doors. Also don't know if I want to run 2 10s under the seats or try and find a good sub to fit the factory sub box behind the seat already. Kim either gonna go with focal ot infinity so at least I know that much 😁
2 way is fine. Anything more is useless
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dhmcfadin (07-27-2018)
#73
Now I have too decided on speakers lol. Not sure if I should go with a two way or 3 way 6x9s for the doors. Also don't know if I want to run 2 10s under the seats or try and find a good sub to fit the factory sub box behind the seat already. Kim either gonna go with focal ot infinity so at least I know that much 😁
#75
For rear doors, you would run a 6.5" coax.
#76
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Replace the pillar tweeters. You can get fancy with this, or keep it simple. Buy components like dhmcfadin suggests so you have matched mids for the front doors.
2 way coax in the rear doors.
Unplug the center.
Replace the stock B&O amp behind the rear seat with the Nav-TV a2b. Run its output to a TWK-88. Run the output from that to your amp(s). For the tweeter/doors you can go with a 4 channel, if you use the passive crossovers your component speakers will likely come with, or a 6 channel if it supports active crossovers. Passive is probably perfectly fine, you lose a little bit of power that way but doubt you will notice.
Use a separate amp for sub(s). Take out the B&O Play sub that is behind the rear seat next to the B&O amp. You can use that space to mount your new amps, etc. or install a hideaway sub that fits, though I really recommend going with an underseat sub for the best sound. You can find plenty of enclosures that fit under the rear seat that will take 1 or 2 subs of various sizes; go nuts.
You'll need to run new speaker wire for the pillar tweeters - that is pretty much the case no matter what route you go. You can use the stock wiring for the rest unless you are planning on a seriously high powered system which it sounds like you aren't. Metra makes good stock speaker wire adapters for the F-150 that are plug and play; also makes speaker bracket adapters (cheap and saves you from making your own).
You'll have better luck finding 6.5 speakers especially for components for the front. Metra makes a 6x9>6.5 bracket that works fine. Don't get hung up on whether 6x9 sounds better because it is bigger - that has a lot more to do with speaker quality, and you'll find a lot more options in the 6.5 range at various price points.
Recommend you run one power wire from the battery and use a distro block to split it out vs. running separate power wires for each amp, dsp, etc. Probably at least a 2 gauge and make sure you get the fuse size correct (and wire gauge for that matter) based on your power draw from the amps, etc.
Grounding is always tricky - I am doing fine with a common ground block for all my stuff, but you may find you need to ground each component to its own point (probably under the seat, though some folks have had luck using one of the stock amp mount bolts).
The Zen a2b is close to plug and play - if they have their harness ready by now, it really will be. It'll tap in to the CAN-bus and speaker wires that ran to the B&O amp, in addition to the digital input from the HU. That part is actually pretty easy now.
I really like the Focals (see my build earlier in the thread for model) but they can be a little pricey.
2 way coax in the rear doors.
Unplug the center.
Replace the stock B&O amp behind the rear seat with the Nav-TV a2b. Run its output to a TWK-88. Run the output from that to your amp(s). For the tweeter/doors you can go with a 4 channel, if you use the passive crossovers your component speakers will likely come with, or a 6 channel if it supports active crossovers. Passive is probably perfectly fine, you lose a little bit of power that way but doubt you will notice.
Use a separate amp for sub(s). Take out the B&O Play sub that is behind the rear seat next to the B&O amp. You can use that space to mount your new amps, etc. or install a hideaway sub that fits, though I really recommend going with an underseat sub for the best sound. You can find plenty of enclosures that fit under the rear seat that will take 1 or 2 subs of various sizes; go nuts.
You'll need to run new speaker wire for the pillar tweeters - that is pretty much the case no matter what route you go. You can use the stock wiring for the rest unless you are planning on a seriously high powered system which it sounds like you aren't. Metra makes good stock speaker wire adapters for the F-150 that are plug and play; also makes speaker bracket adapters (cheap and saves you from making your own).
You'll have better luck finding 6.5 speakers especially for components for the front. Metra makes a 6x9>6.5 bracket that works fine. Don't get hung up on whether 6x9 sounds better because it is bigger - that has a lot more to do with speaker quality, and you'll find a lot more options in the 6.5 range at various price points.
Recommend you run one power wire from the battery and use a distro block to split it out vs. running separate power wires for each amp, dsp, etc. Probably at least a 2 gauge and make sure you get the fuse size correct (and wire gauge for that matter) based on your power draw from the amps, etc.
Grounding is always tricky - I am doing fine with a common ground block for all my stuff, but you may find you need to ground each component to its own point (probably under the seat, though some folks have had luck using one of the stock amp mount bolts).
The Zen a2b is close to plug and play - if they have their harness ready by now, it really will be. It'll tap in to the CAN-bus and speaker wires that ran to the B&O amp, in addition to the digital input from the HU. That part is actually pretty easy now.
I really like the Focals (see my build earlier in the thread for model) but they can be a little pricey.
Last edited by planetix; 07-27-2018 at 04:53 PM.
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Schop (07-28-2018)
#77
I've personally found that my 5-way in the front doors and new tweeters is stock location sounded way better than components, 2-ways, and 3-ways during my tests. I also removed the center channel. Everyone has a personal preference so it's best to try for yourself to figure this out. I will tell you that a few people changed to my setup after hearing it.
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#78
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I've personally found that my 5-way in the front doors and new tweeters is stock location sounded way better than components, 2-ways, and 3-ways during my tests. I also removed the center channel. Everyone has a personal preference so it's best to try for yourself to figure this out. I will tell you that a few people changed to my setup after hearing it.
What 5 way?
#79
I've been shopping crutchfield and I've managed to build what I think is a decent jl audio setup for about 1700.00 including the twk 88. Obviously have to get the zen as well. I'm torn between getting one jl 10" and putting it under the seat or the kenwood powered setup that is designed to go in the OEM location. Part of me likes it hidden and being able to fold up the seats and have a flat floor. I also like the little cubby holes under the seat too.