BadFish1

Hi Guys,

I have a 2017 Screw with the Sync 3 Sony system. I am looking to do an upgrade to the system and looking for a little advice. Been searching and now a bit more confused than when I started. I went to my local car stereo shop that I've used in the past for installs and they were less than helpful with this system. They seemed to have issues in the past and not done very many of these F-150's, so I am going to pass on using them. A few questions if anyone could assist:

1. I am planning on upgrading the front speakers to either 6x9's or 6.5" components, thoughts on which are a better size choice for the truck? Need to do rears as well, or just focus on the fronts?

2. I was leaning towards something like a 50-75w x4 amp to power the new speakers. Getting confused with some of the threads I've been reading about using Forescan, or adding Twk or Fix modules. Are these needed, or can I install a new 4 channel amp and add new door speakers to the stock head unit? Not trying to overcomplicate this or win any competitions, just make the system better than it is.

3. Truck has the stock sub behind the rear seat which I would like to upgrade for cleaner bass. Leaning towards the JL powerwedge 10" or 12" if it will fit, maybe the truck wedge they make or possibly a different enclosure set up if I can get anything to actually fit behind the seat rather than under the seat. Have folks had good luck with behind the seat sub boxes vs. under the seat? Pics/links would really be helpful as I'd rather go that route.

4. Any folks in NJ that have done similar systems to their trucks and also, do you have any good stereo shops you could recommend that have experience with these trucks?


Thanks in advance for your help!

Joe

Jeronimo21

In the same boat as you, with the same truck! Curious to hear what other guys have done

skizzo81

I have done these upgrades many times. if you want free step by step videos to do everything for yourself, check out the videos at www.youtube.com/jasongeorgievski

PistolWhip

In most cases, round separate speakers will provide a little better sound response than an oval 2-way speaker. My suggestion would be a 6.5" component set, which will allow you to place the mids in the doors and the tweets in the factory locations. That will give you a factory sound stage which will be the best your gonna get without a more elaborate set up like upstaging and image enhancement. If you put a 2-way speaker in the door and then simply run the factory tweets off of the stereo, your imaging and timing is going to be all messed up.

Don't bother amplifying your rear speakers, just replace the speakers with a better set of 2-way 6x8's that have a high sensitivity rating (92db or better) and if possible, a 3ohm load. That will draw a little more power to them and allow them to provide you with good, clear rear fill. Since the factory stereo will only be powering the rear speakers, you'll be able to get away with the higher load and increased output to the rear speakers.

You'll need a signal processor / line out converter to get a signal to your amplifier(s). I'm fond of Audio Control, but you can choose your brand. Try to get something that allows you to adjust for bass correction, which will help you repair the factory bass "roll off".

If your stock system has a factory amplifier, you're likely going to need a signal summing device also. I prefer the JL SSI set up, which is made to be used with the CleanSweap, but can be used as a stand alone signal summer. I used it in my 13' with Sony and it worked flawlessly.

After that, it's all basics. Get yourself a good two channel amplifier to power your front components and a mono-bock for a sub-woofer and you'll have yourself a basic but very nice, quality system without breaking the bank.

BadFish1

scootr2200

Have you looked into the PAC Audio AP4-FD21?

I'm in the research stage of an audio upgrade in my 2013 FX4 w/ MFT. As of now, the PAC adapter will be my interface of choice to provide RCA output to a subwoofer amplifier.

What I don't know about it is if I would have to add an amp to power the door speakers?
Or can I simply run a mono amp for the sub and the OEM Sony amp will power the door speakers as it currently does? Does anybody care to chime in?

Mickey

Wyo11Scab

iTrader: (1)

If you have a Sony system this will work. If you don't then it won't. It will totally disconnect the factory amp power

gnesterenko

Hi,

Sorry to revive an old thread. Like OP I'm also in the research phase and have a 2017 XLT with the 8" SYNC 3.0 screen, but no Sony premium audio. PACs website says their adapter won't work in my case (they indicate I have to have the Sony premium audio system). What I wasn't understanding is why, as the stock head unit should be the same? Is it just what you mentioned here? Complete disconnect of the factory amp?

If that's all, I wouldn't care much - I will be running all aftermarket amps for all channels. I just want an easy way to get summed signal level RCA output integrated into stock system, without having to go through speaker line level conversion back to RCA.

Are there additional concerns?

tenx82

I believe the PAC harness plugs into the factory amp on the Sony system, not the radio.

What you need is the FOR11-ck harness from Amazon. Or get the ISO-SOT-984-w harness from eBay for half the price, if you don't mind waiting about a week for it.

shon Williams

I I used a 4 channel high-level input amp and instead of running to the back of the radio or the module is I got power out of the rear door harness sounded good pushing two six by nines and a ten subwoofer