2015 F150 XLT Screw Audio System Upgrade Log (Sync w/Nav, No Sony)
09-05-2016, 01:00 AM
#101
Member
So, is the tweeter wire in the door side of the connector or is it located in the cab side of the connector?
If it is inside the cab side of the door connector, I suppose one could splice into the door speaker wires and run wire up to the tweeters if mounting them in the plastic 'triangle' at the top front of the door panel. That would keep the tweeter wire inside the door.
The crossover I have for my tweeters is small enough to mount inside the door triangle with double sided tape so the tweeters would get the signal feed off of the door speaker but, you would still have to disconnect the factory tweeters.
Do you know what color the wires are for the tweeters at the door connector?
If it is inside the cab side of the door connector, I suppose one could splice into the door speaker wires and run wire up to the tweeters if mounting them in the plastic 'triangle' at the top front of the door panel. That would keep the tweeter wire inside the door.
The crossover I have for my tweeters is small enough to mount inside the door triangle with double sided tape so the tweeters would get the signal feed off of the door speaker but, you would still have to disconnect the factory tweeters.
Do you know what color the wires are for the tweeters at the door connector?
White = Left Tweeter +
White w/Brown Stripe = Left Tweeter -
White w/Violet Stripe = Right Tweeter +
White w/Orange Stripe = Right Tweeter -
Scotto,
The connector is at the cab end of the accordion style rubber tube that goes between the cab and the door, I can't remember for sure but I think the connector is actually pulled apart under the dash at the door jamb, I will consult the service manual and see if there is any mention of that.
I guess I should note that I am not sure if it is "accordion" style or not, I'll have to take a look later today and check, I'll see exactly how the connector comes apart also as the service manual shows it just pulling apart at the door jamb but I am thinking you have to release it from the cabin (interior) side of the jamb.
Last edited by Anzilla82; 09-05-2016 at 01:18 AM. Reason: Added some additional information.
09-05-2016, 02:15 PM
#102
I had come across this article while looking into a speaker upgrade for my '15 XLT Screw with a non-Sony stereo:
http://www.audiodesignscg.com/ford-f...nville-client/
Now, keep in mind that the truck pictured in the article is a King Ranch and I have no idea if it had a Sony system in it or not so I do not know if all of the info contained in the article is relative to our XLT's but there is some interesting information about the factory system and how it works and is configured from the factory. It explains some of the peculiarities of how our systems are designed.
Another good piece of info is that this place manufactures speaker mounts if you don't want to cut out and re-use the factory speaker mounts or if you want to change the sizes of the speakers for the door locations. They also custom make and sell tweeter mounts to fit the size/type of the aftermarket tweeters you wish to use.
For those that don't wish to read the article, here is something interesting to know:
"The customer wanted to keep his factory radio, so we used an Audison Bit Ten D for precise system configuration and tuning. Newer Ford audio systems present several challenges for aftermarket upgrades. The factory amplifier will turn off if it does not detect that speakers are connected to it. We overcame that by adding resistors to the speaker outputs of the amp before connecting them to the processor"
Darren at Audio Systems was very helpful in answering additional questions I had.
Hope this helps some folks out there.
http://www.audiodesignscg.com/ford-f...nville-client/
Now, keep in mind that the truck pictured in the article is a King Ranch and I have no idea if it had a Sony system in it or not so I do not know if all of the info contained in the article is relative to our XLT's but there is some interesting information about the factory system and how it works and is configured from the factory. It explains some of the peculiarities of how our systems are designed.
Another good piece of info is that this place manufactures speaker mounts if you don't want to cut out and re-use the factory speaker mounts or if you want to change the sizes of the speakers for the door locations. They also custom make and sell tweeter mounts to fit the size/type of the aftermarket tweeters you wish to use.
For those that don't wish to read the article, here is something interesting to know:
"The customer wanted to keep his factory radio, so we used an Audison Bit Ten D for precise system configuration and tuning. Newer Ford audio systems present several challenges for aftermarket upgrades. The factory amplifier will turn off if it does not detect that speakers are connected to it. We overcame that by adding resistors to the speaker outputs of the amp before connecting them to the processor"
Darren at Audio Systems was very helpful in answering additional questions I had.
Hope this helps some folks out there.
The following users liked this post:
bigcitymike (09-05-2016)
09-06-2016, 11:08 AM
#103
The tweeter wires are located on the cab side of the connector. The colors are:
White = Left Tweeter +
White w/Brown Stripe = Left Tweeter -
White w/Violet Stripe = Right Tweeter +
White w/Orange Stripe = Right Tweeter -
Scotto,
The connector is at the cab end of the accordion style rubber tube that goes between the cab and the door, I can't remember for sure but I think the connector is actually pulled apart under the dash at the door jamb, I will consult the service manual and see if there is any mention of that.
I guess I should note that I am not sure if it is "accordion" style or not, I'll have to take a look later today and check, I'll see exactly how the connector comes apart also as the service manual shows it just pulling apart at the door jamb but I am thinking you have to release it from the cabin (interior) side of the jamb.
White = Left Tweeter +
White w/Brown Stripe = Left Tweeter -
White w/Violet Stripe = Right Tweeter +
White w/Orange Stripe = Right Tweeter -
Scotto,
The connector is at the cab end of the accordion style rubber tube that goes between the cab and the door, I can't remember for sure but I think the connector is actually pulled apart under the dash at the door jamb, I will consult the service manual and see if there is any mention of that.
I guess I should note that I am not sure if it is "accordion" style or not, I'll have to take a look later today and check, I'll see exactly how the connector comes apart also as the service manual shows it just pulling apart at the door jamb but I am thinking you have to release it from the cabin (interior) side of the jamb.
ok, I see that.
thanks Anzilla82!
09-06-2016, 02:28 PM
#104
Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
Hey guys,
so I finally got done with my audio system install (speedwires from HU, to JBL MS8, to JL XD800/8v2, to C3-600 in front and C2-600 rear), and I lost my chimes.
Is this to be expected? How can I get them back?
EDIT: I lost the chimes through the speakers. They only come through the IPC now. Also, the rear parking warning beeps are super dull and low. Something happened.
so I finally got done with my audio system install (speedwires from HU, to JBL MS8, to JL XD800/8v2, to C3-600 in front and C2-600 rear), and I lost my chimes.
Is this to be expected? How can I get them back?
EDIT: I lost the chimes through the speakers. They only come through the IPC now. Also, the rear parking warning beeps are super dull and low. Something happened.
09-08-2016, 08:49 AM
#105
Hey guys,
so I finally got done with my audio system install (speedwires from HU, to JBL MS8, to JL XD800/8v2, to C3-600 in front and C2-600 rear), and I lost my chimes.
Is this to be expected? How can I get them back?
EDIT: I lost the chimes through the speakers. They only come through the IPC now. Also, the rear parking warning beeps are super dull and low. Something happened.
so I finally got done with my audio system install (speedwires from HU, to JBL MS8, to JL XD800/8v2, to C3-600 in front and C2-600 rear), and I lost my chimes.
Is this to be expected? How can I get them back?
EDIT: I lost the chimes through the speakers. They only come through the IPC now. Also, the rear parking warning beeps are super dull and low. Something happened.
I think that is where the chimes come from...
09-08-2016, 12:02 PM
#106
I posted a link to a website previously that I hope was helpful for some who wanted to change out the speaker components in their F150's. While looking through this shop's online articles I came across one article that gives a generic description of the sound systems that we have in our trucks. (I can only talk about the non-Sony systems because I don't know the particulars on the Sony systems).
Anyway, here is a link to one of the articles that discusses the active crossover network and factory built-in equalization curves that we have in our Ford head units:
http://www.audiodesignscg.com/car-audio-installation/
This should be of interest to those who are thinking about just replacing the factory speakers in our F150's because the Ford units incorporate both of these features which do affect the quality of sound you would get by just replacing the speakers. One major issue is that it doesn't make sense to buy 2, 3 or 4-way speakers especially for our door locations because Ford employs this active crossover network to make their cheap factory speakers sound better than they normally would. It's better to go with a component system that the new speaker's response matches the crossover frequency that the factory head unit is sending to that speaker location.
Of course, if you're adding amps, etc. this info may not be relevant or make any difference to you-it's really just for those who want to change out the factory speakers for better-grade aftermarket ones.
Oh, and this place makes and sells mounting brackets for all but the center dash speaker location for our trucks so you can change the size of the speakers in the door locations or don't want to alter/re-use the factory speaker mounting rings that come OEM. (Yes, they do have the tweeter mounts also but you have to tell them which tweeters you are planning on using because they size the mounts to fit the new tweeters.)
Hope this helps!
Anyway, here is a link to one of the articles that discusses the active crossover network and factory built-in equalization curves that we have in our Ford head units:
http://www.audiodesignscg.com/car-audio-installation/
This should be of interest to those who are thinking about just replacing the factory speakers in our F150's because the Ford units incorporate both of these features which do affect the quality of sound you would get by just replacing the speakers. One major issue is that it doesn't make sense to buy 2, 3 or 4-way speakers especially for our door locations because Ford employs this active crossover network to make their cheap factory speakers sound better than they normally would. It's better to go with a component system that the new speaker's response matches the crossover frequency that the factory head unit is sending to that speaker location.
Of course, if you're adding amps, etc. this info may not be relevant or make any difference to you-it's really just for those who want to change out the factory speakers for better-grade aftermarket ones.
Oh, and this place makes and sells mounting brackets for all but the center dash speaker location for our trucks so you can change the size of the speakers in the door locations or don't want to alter/re-use the factory speaker mounting rings that come OEM. (Yes, they do have the tweeter mounts also but you have to tell them which tweeters you are planning on using because they size the mounts to fit the new tweeters.)
Hope this helps!
09-08-2016, 10:21 PM
#107
I posted a link to a website previously that I hope was helpful for some who wanted to change out the speaker components in their F150's. While looking through this shop's online articles I came across one article that gives a generic description of the sound systems that we have in our trucks. (I can only talk about the non-Sony systems because I don't know the particulars on the Sony systems).
Anyway, here is a link to one of the articles that discusses the active crossover network and factory built-in equalization curves that we have in our Ford head units:
http://www.audiodesignscg.com/car-audio-installation/
This should be of interest to those who are thinking about just replacing the factory speakers in our F150's because the Ford units incorporate both of these features which do affect the quality of sound you would get by just replacing the speakers. One major issue is that it doesn't make sense to buy 2, 3 or 4-way speakers especially for our door locations because Ford employs this active crossover network to make their cheap factory speakers sound better than they normally would. It's better to go with a component system that the new speaker's response matches the crossover frequency that the factory head unit is sending to that speaker location.
Of course, if you're adding amps, etc. this info may not be relevant or make any difference to you-it's really just for those who want to change out the factory speakers for better-grade aftermarket ones.
Oh, and this place makes and sells mounting brackets for all but the center dash speaker location for our trucks so you can change the size of the speakers in the door locations or don't want to alter/re-use the factory speaker mounting rings that come OEM. (Yes, they do have the tweeter mounts also but you have to tell them which tweeters you are planning on using because they size the mounts to fit the new tweeters.)
Hope this helps!
Anyway, here is a link to one of the articles that discusses the active crossover network and factory built-in equalization curves that we have in our Ford head units:
http://www.audiodesignscg.com/car-audio-installation/
This should be of interest to those who are thinking about just replacing the factory speakers in our F150's because the Ford units incorporate both of these features which do affect the quality of sound you would get by just replacing the speakers. One major issue is that it doesn't make sense to buy 2, 3 or 4-way speakers especially for our door locations because Ford employs this active crossover network to make their cheap factory speakers sound better than they normally would. It's better to go with a component system that the new speaker's response matches the crossover frequency that the factory head unit is sending to that speaker location.
Of course, if you're adding amps, etc. this info may not be relevant or make any difference to you-it's really just for those who want to change out the factory speakers for better-grade aftermarket ones.
Oh, and this place makes and sells mounting brackets for all but the center dash speaker location for our trucks so you can change the size of the speakers in the door locations or don't want to alter/re-use the factory speaker mounting rings that come OEM. (Yes, they do have the tweeter mounts also but you have to tell them which tweeters you are planning on using because they size the mounts to fit the new tweeters.)
Hope this helps!
09-08-2016, 10:39 PM
#108
However, I will say that even though I mentioned that I did not have a Sony system in my XLT to an Audio Designs spokesman he said that the non-Sony systems employed the active crossover systems and factory-set equalization levels when we were discussing component systems vs. 2, 3 and 4-way speaker choices.
I haven't installed my speakers yet so I can't speak from experience if I am only getting partial sound frequencies from the door speakers.
Maybe someone else can weigh in on this and clear up any confusion.
Thanks for the info, Wyo11Scab!
09-09-2016, 09:05 AM
#109
I have the NO sony, NO nav system in my 16 XLT and made a new thread asking (and got no responses).....
Is summing required if I run the frt and rear each to there own line level converters? Does the rear roll off bass?
Secondly, does the base system have a center speaker? If so, is it wired off the fronts? I plan to parrot connector the stereo to get the speaker outputs to go to a line level unit, then out of an amp to new door speakers....this output from the new added on amp, does it power the center speaker too?
Is summing required if I run the frt and rear each to there own line level converters? Does the rear roll off bass?
Secondly, does the base system have a center speaker? If so, is it wired off the fronts? I plan to parrot connector the stereo to get the speaker outputs to go to a line level unit, then out of an amp to new door speakers....this output from the new added on amp, does it power the center speaker too?
Last edited by 87gtNOS; 09-09-2016 at 10:00 AM. Reason: I do have the base Sync!
09-09-2016, 09:19 AM
#110
The parrot harness does NOT have wires for the center channel speaker. Rather than disconnecting it, others have upgraded it and left it connected, to run off if the stock head unit. If you wish to amplify this speaker using the parrot harness you will need to run new speaker wire to it and then to its own small amplifier.