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looking good. you already have the subs mounted so it doesn't matter much at this point but for the future you may want to consider using t-nuts to mount your subs. they are cleaner and you don't have any problems removing a sub later if needed (nor do you drill any additional holes).
Nice idea about the t-nuts nineball. However for this particular enclosure, there wouldn't be enough room as the edge of the sub is only 1/8" from the top and bottom of the enclosure. So there is no room for the edge of the t-nuts.
So today I got my tweeters/pillars installed, go front door wires ran, and all wires into crossovers which are in kick panels. Like an idiot, I had my tweeters upside down in the pillars, so had to reverse that mistake. it would look dumb with "Hertz" label upside down. Anyway, looks good:
The drivers side crossover fits perfectly right under the hood release latch. I used velcro to secure to the wall:
For passenger side, there is a ton of room, so basically I just stuck it in there, kinda wedged it into a corner. Didn't need to secure it, it won't move.
I took another look at the Molex plug, but couldn't really get it out without taking door off and I"m doing this job by myself, so screw that!. I just drilled a hole. Not the most professional way to do it, but who said I was a professional? It's a 100 degrees outside AND humid, and I'm in the garage, I just wanted to get this **** done LOL.
Ran the door speaker wires most of the way through the rubber boot, then exited the boot and down into the hole. Only about 2" of wire length to deal with. I'll probably just wrap it with something. Note: on passenger side, there was a double wall to drill through, whereas driver side only had a single wall. I used touch up paint around the hole just to get the bare metal covered, then, used a small Dynamat square to cover it. Then, pushed the wire through it. That way, the Dynamat acts as a barrier against the sharp hole edges.
So tomorrow, I plan on getting my front door brackets finished, then installing the 6 1/2 woofers (with boom mats). Jury is still out on the boom mats/baffles though, I've heard some people say it killed their mid bass. Anyone have experience with those?
Then, hook up the PAC amp pro and run RCA's and I'm basically done! Well, I have a JL remote **** I have to figure out where to put.
Last edited by Corepuncher; 07-28-2017 at 05:23 AM.
Door speakers all in. I did strip out a couple screws which gives me some concern, the sheet metal in the doors is thin. But 3 of the 4 screws in my passenger side are very secure, so I don't think it's gonna move. FYI i cut out the bottom half of the boom mats to let air move freely, yet kept the top half to protect from weather. I heard too many complaints of lack of mid bass with those boom mats so had to modify.
Also got my PAC amp pro device hooked up, along with control **** which I put right under the SYNC symbol under the climate controls. The PAC device simply connect in line between the stock stereo and the wires.
In this pic, the harness on the left USUALLY hooks directly into the back of the radio (right). As you can see, the PAC device now hooks into that, takes a feed off it, and then sends out it's own harness to plug back into the radio. You can't go wrong with the install, each harness fits in exactly one spot. Same thing with the Sync screen.
Here is where I set the PAC device, and with RCA's attached. It fits snugly right behind that metal bracket.
So tomorrow, I"ll plug the RCA's into the amps, and connect the power wire to the battery (it's already wires, just sitting by it). OMG, will I have sound soon? LOL. Will spend some time settings gains, EQ, etc. The PAC device lets you adjust the frequency and Q factor of the stock systems 3 band (Bass Midrange Treble) EQ. Stock settings are centered on 100, 1000, 10000 HZ. I dropped my bass to 80. Q factors are 0.50, 0.75, 0.75 by default. You can also change some other settings like chime volume. That reminds me, I should have ran a mini USB cord out the PAC to a place I could access easily, then I can always hook up my laptop and change settings in the future.
Everything is hooked up. Spent some time today adjusting input sensitivities and gains. I am very impressed with my 2 JL 8w7's. I used to have a Diamond 12" sub with Memphis 1000D amp. These two 8's are comparable (with 500-600 watts each). Except, the bass is a bit smoother. Some people just want the SPL of a jackhammer I guess...but I LOVE the sound of these.
Only minor disappointment are my highs up front. I have hertz 165.3 mille pros in front, and just some hertz 5x7's coaxials in rear. The coaxials, to my surprise, are much brighter than my components. I don't know what the deal is...all four channels are being run off the same amp and with same settings. But so far, I had to turn down gain of rears in order to have more of the sound come from up front.
Tomorrow I am going to cut out the boom mats from the rear door speakers, I think it stifles mid bass. Luckily, I kept all my door panels off just in case. it's possible the door speakers sound better when I put my door panels back on...I know that should make it more air tight and at least improve mid bass response.
I don't think so, I was OCD about getting pos/neg wires correct. But I might double check.
I guess I'll have to turn gain down in back compared to front. Unfortunately, if I turn my gain up much more (past 50%) in front, I get bad static. Come to think of it, I'm gonna switch the speaker wires in back of the amp and see if it's the front speakers that have the static, or if it's those amp channels. For some reason, I'm skeptical of the crossovers. I mean my amp already has a crossover, so I'm wondering if only tweeters need to be crossed over again? IDK, gonna play with it.
I also have a 180 phase change switch on my sub amp, I'm gonna have to give it a try and see if it sounds any better.
I had car where back door speakers where very close to me they kinda jacked with front . I faded to front more it helped a ton. I also know of guys who had knu koncepts rca issues .
I had car where back door speakers where very close to me they kinda jacked with front . I faded to front more it helped a ton. I also know of guys who had knu koncepts rca issues .
That's interesting, I thought they were some of the highest rated RCA's. Go figure :-)
Yeah, I might have to fade a bit. The issue is, I'm running out of headroom at my stereo. I have to get up to 80% of max volume in order to get "top end" sound. I almost wish I had gone with another pair of the 5x7's up front, they sound that good!
Hmmm make sure your mids aren't crossed up to high. You kinda want everything to over lap just bit so you don't have holes in freqs. You using dedicated dsp or just stuff off hertz passive cross overs and PAC settings. When I do mine the PAC is just gonna sit flat. Running will all be done with helix dsp. Make sure you amp crossovers are doing some kinda multiplying on mids signal.
07-20-2017, 12:24 PM
