DylMyr

I’ve been scouring the forum/internet for the past couple hours and have read so many different posts its starting to make my head spin…

I want to do a full paint detail on my 11’ Screw and make it shine like new again. I’m no detailing expert, cleaning my truck involves a pressure washer, Dawn dish soap, and a car wash brush. I’ve never used a clay bar before but I would like to give that a try as well as Collinite 845. From what I’ve read the general process involves:


1. Wash and Dry
2. Clay bar
3. Wash and Dry
4. Seal
5. Wax, (Collinite 845)


Basically, I’m looking for someone who is experienced in this procedure to elaborate a little on these steps, such as techniques, and recommended product brands. As a University student I don’t exactly have a lot of cash to spend on a bunch of different detailing products so I’m looking for an affordable yet effective detail job.


*I’m not familiar with sealants and how they differ from wax; I just see you must use it after the clay bar process and before the wax?


**The entire front end, mirror caps, and rear bumper is covered in 3M film, is ok to clay bar/ apply these products to it?


Thanks a lot guys. This forums the best.
Dylan.

sullyman

I know there are lots of Colonite fanboys on this site, but to get the best shine you need pure carnuba.

Don't clay bar the 3M paint guard. Clean it with a vinegar water mixture and a microfiber clothe. You can wax it.

You don't need a sealer either.

Just use this:

http://www.surfcitygarage.com/shop/b...uba-liquid-wax

And you can get shine like this:

sullyman

I have had my truck since last May, and that initial wax coat still beads water and has good depth. I think it's almost ready to wax again.

The top picture is from a couple months ago, after a year from being waxed. Just washed and hand dried, and the vinyl and rubber dressed.

The bottom two from the day it was waxed. See the detail in the clouds? See the little blur? That's an airforce fighter jet overhead, hauling butt. These pics are with my phone, so not day enough to get it without blurring.

Don't get carnuba wax on you black vinyl, it will haze it. I like Mother for the vinyl. Stays black longer.

Good luck!

c-one

I'm a firm believer in Collinite. It creates a barrier and provides a good level of luster. I use it and love it on the Tux black. Make sure to apply it in the shade or garage. No direct sunlight. I have no experience with using a clay bar. Good luck!

kidastra

iTrader: (1)

I'm a professional detailer for 17 years, if you have any questions pm me

TJPlatinumEB

I've had my own detailing company in the past and this is how I have always done it. I'm sure others will have varying opinions, but here's mine

1. DO NOT use Dawn or any other kind of soap that is not specifically intended for car wash use. I use Meguiar's Gold Class for the soap as well as the lubricant while using a clay bar.

2. You don't have to dry it off before you use clay bar. You want the surface to be wet and have a little bit of lubrication to it. I have a spray bottle that is about 90% filtered water and 10% car wash soap to do the claybar process.

3. Does your paint need any kind of correction? Swirls, light scratches, marring, etc? If so, just waxing it isn't going to fix those, just mostly cover them up. Chances are if you haven't been using the right products up to this point you might have some correction that might be needed. You need a buffer and varying compounds and pads for that so probably a little more than you might want to attempt. Just something to keep in mind in case you still see marks and swirls after you are done.

4. The Collinite is a very good product but there are lots better ones out there for the same price and even cheaper. AutoGeek.net has just about every bit of information and instructional videos and products to research. One of the better features of the Collinite is it is safe to use on the grey trim and plastic on the truck. Most waxes will just fade and whiten those parts whereas the Collinite will actually richen the color. Don't go too far on that though.

My advice is to research it on the site i mentioned above and if you are serious about keeping you paint look good for a long time to come, make some investments in some good products and quality parts.

pmpski_1

Depends on how bad your paint is, but two things to consider:

1. If you've been washing with a pressure washer and a "brush", you're going to have small scratches and swirls. You'll need to do some paint correction (polishing) to get them out. The worse it is, the more aggressive you need to get.

2. If you're going to clay, and definitely if you're going to polish, do yourself a favor and use a sealer. If I had to choose between sealer or wax, I would take the sealer. Better, longer lasting protection. If your truck sits outside, like mine, seal it. If it's a garage queen waxing without sealing is fine.

Lots of good info on cleaning and detailing from professional detailers on the forum here: https://www.f150forum.com/f28/

I like and recommend Adams Polishes. Great products, and made in the USA. They have a bunch of good videos (and an active forum) that will answer a lot of your questions.

Good luck!

H-60 Electrician

I'm am not a professional, but in 43 years of waxing cars and trucks, Collinite 845 has my business. Great shine, longer lasting than most I've used, but what sold me most was how easy it goes on and comes off. When you have arthritis like I do and still want to do it yourself, the less rubbing with the hands the better.

sullyman

Don't be fooled, pure carnuba wax works for trucks parked outside. Mine gets parked everyday right were it is in the pictures. That coat made it through two blistering hot San Antonio summers.

And the stuff I provided the link to is easy on and off.

I've been washing and waxing cars, trucks, and boats for over 25 years now. There is no substitute for a good, high quality, pure carnuba wax.

They are right about the swirl marks though. You will need to polish if you are going to expect good results and have swirl marks.

Half_ton

I've had great luck with waxes that range from $100 to $20 -migliore was ok, but I really like Adams products. I have tried the surf city stuff and that is ok for the average car guy, but with anything you get what you pay for.

Like others have stated your process will work just fine, if you aren't wanting to do any correcting before you seal or wax. If you ever use a brush or car washes- dont bother with any correcting. Like others have offered, if you need some info just pm me- detail in the summer for extra cash (full time middle school teacher).