tcp2

The pin weight on a fifth wheel is often 20-25% (1500-2000lbs) Yours shows a dry pin weight of 1190lbs. Add propane, batteries, camping equipment, etc and you'll probably be at 1500-1700lbs.

Forget the cooling upgrades, what does the yellow sticker in your driver's door show for carrying capacity? Take that value, subtract the pin weight (1500lbs at least), subtract the hitch weight (60-80lbs) and everything else you have put into the truck. That number is what you and any passengers can weigh and still be within capacity. I suspect you will be overweight before you even climb into the truck.

You were buying the truck to tow and didn't get a tow package? Why?

bradtx

Ford didn't install a trailer brake controller without some version of a tow package. Research your new truck fully.

Brad

timberframe

OK I found my window sticker. It says as options, 3.55 axle, 7000# GVWR package, blis/ with trailer tow monitor, class 4 trailer hitch, 36 gal extended range gas tank, integrated brake controller. For what it is worth, I believe the salesman said that the truck had a built in cooler on the transmission.

bradtx

Typically a tow package included a greater capacity transmission cooler. The window sticker is a good source of info and there are many on this forum that can help decipher what is written.

Brad

timberframe

The FW hitch weight is 1190. The truck carrying sticker says 1715#.

tcp2

Quoted dry weights don't include propane, batteries, water and the equipment you are putting into the trailer, or the hitch you need to install in the bed. By the time you add all this up, you will be north of 1500lbs. Unless all the passengers (and items you carry inside and in the bed) in the truck are less than 215lbs combined, you are over the weight rating of your truck. You may not care, but an optioned up crew cab isn't the right tool for this job.

SoPoSassquatch

You want a '17 IMO. Changes from '15/'16:

-Gen 2 3.5L
-10spd trans
-Android Auto capability

It's true the 5th wheel hurts the 150 case vs the 250/350 as the max tow is really aimed more at the hitch tow market. You probably want the 157" wb for 5th wheel clearance and towing stability. If you ask how to tow anything more than jet skis on this site you'll be immediately directed to by a real truck in the 350. The 250 at least should offer the 3.5L eco as a lightweight option.

timberframe

We just got back yesterday from a 5000 mile road trip to Arizona and back to Michigan. Wow the weather was fantastic and the scenery was amazing. On our way to Bullhead city Arizona with just the truck, I had the following MPG with the 3.5 eco:
At 75 MPH I got 20.8 MPG in the normal transmission mode. At 80 MPH I got 19.1 MPG.
In eco transmission mode I got 20.5 going 75MPH. At 80 MPH , I got 19.2 MPG.
In mud/snow mode I got 21.4 going 75 MPH and 21.2 going 80 MPH.

On the way home I was towing a 26' model fifth wheel (29' overall) 7600# trailer. In tow/ haul transmission mode I got 9.7 MPG at 70MPH. And at 75MPH, I got 9.3 MPG.
I was disappointed with the MPG when towing but I have to say, that truck pulled as strong as when we had our one ton diesel pulling our 34' Jayco fifth wheel. The short bed with the pullrite auto hitch made the job a breeze.

rucus01

Did you hit a cat scale on your way ? What is the window sticker / vin of the truck you purchased?

bassJAM

Glad you're happy with the combo you pick out.

I always struggle when folks say they can't get good fuel economy out of the 3.5eb (unloaded of course). Last week I had 3 trips from Cincinnati to Indianapolis and one trip from Cinci to Columbus. Just under 1,000 miles with the cruise set at 74, and I averaged 21.8 mpg calculated (dash meter said 22.3). And that's with a 12th gen. My daily commute drops it to 18.5 average with a 30 mile commute and plenty of highway stop-and-go and downtown Cincinnati city driving.

Now when I pull my 7x12 HD tandem axle landscaping trailer I drop to about 14 mpg, and that's with the trailer empty.