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I got the ABS/traction control lights and the calipers were not releasing as well as they should. The truck was still mostly drivable. I figure the caliper problem is the rubber brake hose issue and I'll be replacing both the fronts with braided hoses.
I purchased a used ABS module from carpartsource.com. I replaced the old one which had "failure to communicate with ABS module" codes. The used one still has all of the ABS/traction control lights (as I expected it would), but is now throwing a "Check Brake System" message on the dash. I know I have to have VIN flashed to the replacement module, but I wasn't expecting the new message (figured it would be functional with the same lights but throw a "VIN mismatch" code).
I certainly wasn't expecting it to lock up my calipers so hard that I can't get out of first gear and the truck tries to die when in drive.
I reinstalled the original ABS (that can't communicate) and the "check brake system" message is gone. The extreme caliper locking is also gone.
I am debating (a) taking it to a shop as-is, see if they can flash the used module to my VIN and see what that does, or (b) just buy a new ABS module from a dealership and take it to get flashed to my VIN.
Any recommendations? Is this expected behavior on a VIN mismatch?
The brake caliper sticking would definitely be either a bad caliper or bad hose to the ABS pump (usually the rubber one).
I have played around with used ABS modules and can shed some light and personal experience.
I used Forscan to reflash the used modules with my trucks AS BUILT data - this is a must do as the used unit as is will not clear your codes. I would do this first as it will determine if the module you got was good or not.
I see you have a 2010 model year, therefore you will want a module from a 2009 or 2010 - they are dated. First production of a given model year is usually Sept - so 2010 model year would have part dates between Sept 09 - Aug 10. If you use one from a 2011-14 you may get issues where the ABS module is looking for an Electric Power Steering Unit, something they did not have yet in 2010. I have a 2012 model year and I figured this out by using a 2010 MY module and it gave me EPAS issues. So I figure the reverse would be true as well.
The above module dates are as follows: Left most module is April 30/09, the middle unit is June 20/12 and the right most module is March 5/10.
For others, if your MY is 2011-14 you will also need to worry about NA or Boosted. For example, I have a good module from a 2012 EcoBoost truck (middle unit in pic). It cleared my ABS/Traction Control/Stability Control issues but gave me a "Check Brake System" message and code for not detecting the vacuum pump turning on. I have since found and switched to a 2011 NA module and all is good. So I have a good 2010 module (that will through Power Steering faults on my 2012) and a good 2012 module from a boosted truck and the 2011 that is good currently on my truck. I also have my original module if I were to send it out for repair and a 2009 MY that I have not tried/tested yet. I also had a couple modules that once I programmed them, they gave me the same faults as my original - so I turfed them. The bolts to remove the module are a Female E Torx #5 socket.
If you get a good module and get it programmed with your AS BUILT data it should work fine. Your AS BUILT data can be either downloaded and saved from your vehicle or you can download from Ford with your VIN number. Let us know how it goes.
I did send out my original module out for repair, they sent it back and stated that there was irreparable physical damage.
Honestly, I don't know what is going on now. It looks like the used module is in the correct manufacturing date range. I re-swapped, got the "check brake system" message. Ran Forscan, it doesn't look like it is seeing ABS at all. It looks like several module are missing or I am not using the Forscan software correctly.
I assume it is because I had an engine swap done recently, and the tests don't complete because I am getting a PCM P1000 DTC. I thought I had driven it enough after the engine swap to reset that, but perhaps not. I am going to get the brakes looked at and get to the root of the caliper sticking (it has done it previously before the ABS light showed up), and drive it for a bit and see if the P1000 clears up and I can run the tests.