Upgrade from 2wd open diff
#11
Senior Member
The Truetrac isn't a locker; it's a limited slip. It's definitely superior to the OEM track lock and would be my choice of limited slip. But they cost about twice you listed for the track lock. I'm not sure a 2wd street truck will benefit any from the improved torque bias and the clutches in the track lock could very well last 75K-100K miles without a lot of use.
I know it's not a locker, so forgive my terminology. In my 95 f150 2wd with the tow package. I changed the carrier at 200k because of the worn spider gears. And, the new FRPP carrier is still going strong with the new owner at about 350k. They last if cared for properly.
Yes I still agree the Eaton is superior at double the price.
The OP is talking about changing the carrier not the Ring and Pinion.
Last edited by Screwed05; 02-25-2019 at 01:22 PM.
#12
Senior Member
Still...4WD is the way to go in the northeast. The snow gets deep and sometimes it sticks around for quite a while. I have a 2WD Traction-Lock now and miss my old 4WD. Huge difference. And my Traction-Lock works perfectly, the way it was designed to, none of the problems that others report.
And...my old 4WD had a limited slip diff. So I'm comparing 2W LSD to 4WD. Not open to 4WD. 4WD is the way to go in the snow.
I just finished loading about 240 lbs of weight in to the back of my 2WD LSD because we're getting snow here.
And...my old 4WD had a limited slip diff. So I'm comparing 2W LSD to 4WD. Not open to 4WD. 4WD is the way to go in the snow.
I just finished loading about 240 lbs of weight in to the back of my 2WD LSD because we're getting snow here.
Last edited by BareBonesXL; 02-25-2019 at 02:13 PM.
#13
Senior Member
Just spend the money on some good winter tires and add 300-400 lbs over the rear axle. Or sell it and get something 4wd. Anything else isn’t going to help enough to make it worthwhile.
#14
I found the perfect solution for adding weight, and yes I used it in my 4WD truck too, no sense driving with a light back end in snow, regardless of the drive. I picked up battery cases from old UPS units. Each one holds 10 12 v sealed LA batteries. The cases have handles and stack. Each weighs 85 pounds. I have them in the front of my bed strapped in to the front tie downs. I still have the entire bed if I need it too.
#15
Member
If you're going to do it, up the ante a bit and buy an Eaton TrueTrac differential. It's completely mechanical, no friction discs to wear out. They operate seamlessly and basically always deliver the right amount of torque to each wheel regardless of the traction available. I put one in the '05 and thinking of doing the same with my '13, ditching the ELD. It's an excellent design.
#16
Thanks
This is a great forum - i was already going to be swapping in winter tires, I'm going to be setting aside the $1k for the truetrac. It seems like the best solution but I don't think Im going to tackle it on my own.
#17
#18
Senior Member
The OP has a 2wd so this is a bit off topic, but since it's being discussed, my choice for the front would be a Torsen unit like the Raptor has.
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Old Grey Mule (02-26-2019)
#19
True-Trac and Torsen are pretty much the same. They work the same way but have a different gear setup.
As for the difference in price, it's $165 more for a True-Trac over a Ford Tracloc. I'll take the Torsen type over the clutch type any day, no clutches to wear out, and no special lube additives needed.
As for the difference in price, it's $165 more for a True-Trac over a Ford Tracloc. I'll take the Torsen type over the clutch type any day, no clutches to wear out, and no special lube additives needed.
#20
FWIW wouldn't it be cheaper and a lot easier to just find a rear end for that truck that already has a traction lock in it?Not to mention putting the traction lock in your rear end you might have to get into setting back lash and all that other stuff that isn't easy to do!!!