Rear Axles Ratios
#11
Senior Member
I agree with others - 3.55 or 3.73 if possible. Bigger tire diameter benefits from the shorter (higher numerically) gear ratio. I thought that somewhere out there, there was a 4.10 gear option, but that might be very specific to certain models (the Raptor, perhaps). If you're going to go very large on tires, that would be a plus.
#12
Senior Member
Generally speaking for most of us there is no downside to going with lower gears. Ford is trying to meet CAFE fuel mileage standards. On paper they can show an additional 1 mpg with higher gears. Which is huge for them as many trucks as they sell. And might make a difference in fuel costs for a company with a fleet of 50-100 trucks.
For an individual the lower gears mean more power, and realistically less than 1 mpg in fuel usage. You'll never notice.
With the 3.5 EB you have enough power that the 3.31's would be acceptable. I'd not touch them with the 5.0 nor 2.7. Forget about 3.15's.
My 5.0 has 3.55's and I find them acceptable. I'd have rather had 3.73's but never found a truck with them that I'd consider buying.
For an individual the lower gears mean more power, and realistically less than 1 mpg in fuel usage. You'll never notice.
With the 3.5 EB you have enough power that the 3.31's would be acceptable. I'd not touch them with the 5.0 nor 2.7. Forget about 3.15's.
My 5.0 has 3.55's and I find them acceptable. I'd have rather had 3.73's but never found a truck with them that I'd consider buying.
#13
Senior Member
3.55 or 3.73. My previous experience with 3.31 was not good. The 3.55 in the current truck with the bigger tires is more than adequate for the job including towing.
#14
The 3.55 comes with a Non-Limited Slip Axle Ratio. There is an optional 3.55 Electronic Locking Axle Ratio. Between the two types, what is the difference and what if recommended?
#15
Senior Member
A limited slip has a set of clutches that limit the amount of rotation difference between the two wheels. If one wheel is on ice, it will tend to spin, but the clutches will transfer some power to the other wheel. It's a limited amount of power because the clutch system has to allow for different rotation speed when you go around a corner. A locking differential is different. It locks the two wheels together, so that neither one can rotate faster than the other.
The locking differential is superior for ultimate traction, but it wouldn't work well if you drove around corners because when you turn, the outside wheel has to turn faster than the inside wheel. The electronic locking differential allows you to lock it when you need it, but leave it unlocked when you don't. Best of both worlds - normal driving, and traction-intense situations.
Edit - I need to read better. A non-limited slip differential is an open differential. If one wheel is on ice, it will spin freely while the other does nothing to help. Locking the differential will force the two wheels to operate in tandem. If one wheel has traction, it will move the vehicle regardless of where the other wheel is.
The locking differential is superior for ultimate traction, but it wouldn't work well if you drove around corners because when you turn, the outside wheel has to turn faster than the inside wheel. The electronic locking differential allows you to lock it when you need it, but leave it unlocked when you don't. Best of both worlds - normal driving, and traction-intense situations.
Edit - I need to read better. A non-limited slip differential is an open differential. If one wheel is on ice, it will spin freely while the other does nothing to help. Locking the differential will force the two wheels to operate in tandem. If one wheel has traction, it will move the vehicle regardless of where the other wheel is.
Last edited by Tom_with_a_Truck; 12-09-2017 at 10:42 PM.
#16
Senior Member
I had 3.55's in mine, but after a wheel and tire change, I then swapped them out for 4.11's, very happy with this change.
#17
Senior Member
Go with the 3.55's e locker. It will get it into the boost quicker..
BTW I have a 2015 F350 with the 6.2 gasser and 4.30 gears. They are sweet
BTW I have a 2015 F350 with the 6.2 gasser and 4.30 gears. They are sweet
#18
Sounds good. I was leaning towards the 3.55’s. So I guess you are saying that it will get the turbos to kick in quicker. I’m still debating whether to get the 2.7 or 3.5 EB. I’m not planning on towing and from what I see they both get about the same gas mileage. With the 3.5 you are getting 50 more HP, but you paying extra money for that engine. I haven’t heard any complaints about the 2.7. Is there a definite difference in acceleration with the 3.5 over the 2.7? Any other advantage with the 3.5 other than towing?
#19
Senile member
Sounds good. I was leaning towards the 3.55’s. So I guess you are saying that it will get the turbos to kick in quicker. I’m still debating whether to get the 2.7 or 3.5 EB. I’m not planning on towing and from what I see they both get about the same gas mileage. With the 3.5 you are getting 50 more HP, but you paying extra money for that engine. I haven’t heard any complaints about the 2.7. Is there a definite difference in acceleration with the 3.5 over the 2.7? Any other advantage with the 3.5 other than towing?
btw, you're getting 50 more hp and 70ft-lbs more torque, but you're also getting more displacement, which for towing, means it doesn't have to work as hard towing the same load as the 2.7.
#20
don't listen to anyone who mentions lag with regards to the 2.7 or 3.5 ecoboosts. There is no lag. none. So don't worry about lag with regards to gearing, no matter what gears you have.
btw, you're getting 50 more hp and 70ft-lbs more torque, but you're also getting more displacement, which for towing, means it doesn't have to work as hard towing the same load as the 2.7.
btw, you're getting 50 more hp and 70ft-lbs more torque, but you're also getting more displacement, which for towing, means it doesn't have to work as hard towing the same load as the 2.7.
Last edited by SummitSitter; 12-10-2017 at 05:31 PM.