painting a truck with rattle cans!
#1
grease monkey
Thread Starter
painting a truck with rattle cans!
ok i wanna paint my red 92 ranger black. i want to prime it, base, and clear it.
so my questions are..
1. how should i prep the surface? what grit sandpaper or what should i use..
2. how many layers of each coat of paint. primer, base, clear.. or if i should even prime it?
thank you i promise pics!
edit: im going to use spray cans
so my questions are..
1. how should i prep the surface? what grit sandpaper or what should i use..
2. how many layers of each coat of paint. primer, base, clear.. or if i should even prime it?
thank you i promise pics!
edit: im going to use spray cans
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: columbus
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it will take about 25 cans of spray paint to do a half *****es job (dont ask how i know). you would be better off going to tsc and picking up a gallon of impliment paint, thinning it with mineral spirits and spraying it out of a cheap gun.
#4
in the house
The 'trick' to painting is in preparation. When it comes to sanding, the coarser the grit, the faster it will take the paint off but...the deeper the 'scratches' are that will have to be filled. So....in your case, if you want my advice, start with 180 grit paper to remove the old paint, once you have all your trim, etc, off. Get all the old paint off, wipe down with a prep-solvent like Duplicolor Grease and Wax Remover (part number CM541). Then use a good filling primer like Duplicolor 1692 sandable. This is the tiresome part, the priming and sanding and priming and sanding, working your way 'up' in grit to where you are comfortable with the finish. Believe me...ANY imperfection in your primer will look 500 times worse in the paint! Once you are happy with your primered surface, wipe down with the prep-sol again, then tack cloth it to remove remaining dust. Select the paint of your choice, I would stick to a simple base color and not plan on any clear coat. Take your time, make sure you are painting at at least 60 degrees. Follow the directions on the can.
Like others, I implore you NOT use rattle cans...the results just don't cut it in my opinion. Hell, you can get a MAACO job for less than what it will cost you in supplies....seriously. But if you are committed to spray cans...follow the above directions. Further advice would be: Take your hood off, do it first, work out your technique on something simple like this.
Like others, I implore you NOT use rattle cans...the results just don't cut it in my opinion. Hell, you can get a MAACO job for less than what it will cost you in supplies....seriously. But if you are committed to spray cans...follow the above directions. Further advice would be: Take your hood off, do it first, work out your technique on something simple like this.
#5
grease monkey
Thread Starter
[quote=bajaman;671155]The 'trick' to painting is in preparation. When it comes to sanding, the coarser the grit, the faster it will take the paint off but...the deeper the 'scratches' are that will have to be filled. So....in your case, if you want my advice, start with 180 grit paper to remove the old paint, once you have all your trim, etc, off. Get all the old paint off, wipe down with a prep-solvent like Duplicolor Grease and Wax Remover (part number CM541). Then use a good filling primer like Duplicolor 1692 sandable. This is the tiresome part, the priming and sanding and priming and sanding, working your way 'up' in grit to where you are comfortable with the finish. Believe me...ANY imperfection in your primer will look 500 times worse in the paint! Once you are happy with your primered surface, wipe down with the prep-sol again, then tack cloth it to remove remaining dust. Select the paint of your choice, I would stick to a simple base color and not plan on any clear coat. Take your time, make sure you are painting at at least 60 degrees. Follow the directions on the can.
very nice, thank you. i think i may look into a spray gun cause now that you mention it spray paint is pricey..
very nice, thank you. i think i may look into a spray gun cause now that you mention it spray paint is pricey..
#6
in the house
I think you'll be happier if you go with a gun but....do you have a decent compressor with a good in-line dryer? To shoot acrylic enamel, which is what I'd recommend, you'll need to be able to supply about 7 cfm at 50 psi. It is critical to keep water out of the line! You can pick up a gallon of basic acrylic enamel for $40 or so at an automotive paint supply store, some even rent equipment. I'd check all that out. Regardless, you'll end up spending ~$300 at a minimum in supplies by the time it is all said and done. MAACO can give you a paint job for that, seriously.
#7
grease monkey
Thread Starter
I think you'll be happier if you go with a gun but....do you have a decent compressor with a good in-line dryer? To shoot acrylic enamel, which is what I'd recommend, you'll need to be able to supply about 7 cfm at 50 psi. It is critical to keep water out of the line! You can pick up a gallon of basic acrylic enamel for $40 or so at an automotive paint supply store, some even rent equipment. I'd check all that out. Regardless, you'll end up spending ~$300 at a minimum in supplies by the time it is all said and done. MAACO can give you a paint job for that, seriously.
holy *****.. ok!