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leveling struts with new upper control arms

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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 08:11 AM
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Default leveling struts with new upper control arms

Sorry for the cross post (09-14 forum). I’m diving into this soon and am hoping for some insight.

I've combed through other threads but can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for to help. Here's the situation: I'm replacing UCAs and struts at the same time. I'm planning on using the Eibach pro-truck adjustable struts and setting them to the ~1.5" height. Normally I would measure from center of wheel before starting so I could match that height after installing the new UCA. My question, though, is what about when replacing UCA and strut but adding ~1.5"? Should I just add the ~1.5" to the starting height when torquing the UCA bolts?

Let me know if I should provide additional truck details. Any help is greatly appreciated!

2014 STX Supercrew
4wd
Standard tire size (265 /70 R18)
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 08:21 AM
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When I replaced the front struts on my 05 F150 I used KYB struts with a installed puck to level the f/e.

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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 08:25 AM
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Hey Mike.

Did you also redo upper control arms? I’ve read and been told that when doing UCAs it’s a good idea to measure from center of wheel first then match before torquing the new UCAs. That would be straightforward if keeping the same height but with leveling I’m not sure whether to just add the extra height.
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jsc18
Hey Mike.

Did you also redo upper control arms? I’ve read and been told that when doing UCAs it’s a good idea to measure from center of wheel first then match before torquing the new UCAs. That would be straightforward if keeping the same height but with leveling I’m not sure whether to just add the extra height.
I've never heard of having to do any measuring, although I can see where some **** retentive type might do it.
Anyway, the correct way to torque down the UCA's, and LCA's, is to have the weight of the vehicle on them. Has to do with bushing position to limit any noise and early wear on them.
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jsc18
Hey Mike.

Did you also redo upper control arms? I’ve read and been told that when doing UCAs it’s a good idea to measure from center of wheel first then match before torquing the new UCAs. That would be straightforward if keeping the same height but with leveling I’m not sure whether to just add the extra height.
No, I did not.
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by johnday in BFE
I've never heard of having to do any measuring, although I can see where some **** retentive type might do it.
Anyway, the correct way to torque down the UCA's, and LCA's, is to have the weight of the vehicle on them. Has to do with bushing position to limit any noise and early wear on them.
Thanks johnday. That was my general plan but wasn’t really sure where to stop. In other words, how do I avoid overextending when supporting the weight on a jack stand? Seems like it would be easy to go too far or not far enough without the tire on, which would make torquing very difficult.
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 11:21 AM
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John stated it correctly. I use Icon 2.5s with SPC UCAs. The Icons went on first adjusted for minimum lift on my 2wd settling at under 2 inches. Later added the UCAs and they were torqued to spec with the truck settled on the shop floor. Same ride height with no adjustments made. KM
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jsc18
Thanks johnday. That was my general plan but wasn’t really sure where to stop. In other words, how do I avoid overextending when supporting the weight on a jack stand? Seems like it would be easy to go too far or not far enough without the tire on, which would make torquing very difficult.
Ever watch them when you get new tires/wheels installed, and see where they jack the front up? They're using a spot directly under the lower strut mount. Just stick your jackstand there, and lower the vehicle. The stand will be supporting the same weight your tire would be if on the ground.
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by johnday in BFE
Ever watch them when you get new tires/wheels installed, and see where they jack the front up? They're using a spot directly under the lower strut mount. Just stick your jackstand there, and lower the vehicle. The stand will be supporting the same weight your tire would be if on the ground.
Right. Thanks. Still, though, if I use that spot and lower past where it would sit with the tire on wouldn’t that compress the strut past resting position, like driving over a rock on one side? I’m probably over-thinking it but it seems like without the tire and without measuring the weight of that side would compress lower than resting height.

Thanks all. I really appreciate it.
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Old Nov 16, 2025 | 03:30 PM
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Since you'll replace UCA's on both sides, you can set the jack stand to the height you want on one side, then set to the same height on the other side. It doesn't matter if the front isn't the same height as the rear, but I would recommend that you get it pretty close. The tire/wheel is what is called unsprung weight, and will make no difference if they're on the truck or not, and with them off, you can reach in there easier, instead of working around a tire.
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