leveling struts with new upper control arms
Sorry for the cross post (09-14 forum). I’m diving into this soon and am hoping for some insight.
I've combed through other threads but can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for to help. Here's the situation: I'm replacing UCAs and struts at the same time. I'm planning on using the Eibach pro-truck adjustable struts and setting them to the ~1.5" height. Normally I would measure from center of wheel before starting so I could match that height after installing the new UCA. My question, though, is what about when replacing UCA and strut but adding ~1.5"? Should I just add the ~1.5" to the starting height when torquing the UCA bolts?
Let me know if I should provide additional truck details. Any help is greatly appreciated!
2014 STX Supercrew
4wd
Standard tire size (265 /70 R18)
I've combed through other threads but can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for to help. Here's the situation: I'm replacing UCAs and struts at the same time. I'm planning on using the Eibach pro-truck adjustable struts and setting them to the ~1.5" height. Normally I would measure from center of wheel before starting so I could match that height after installing the new UCA. My question, though, is what about when replacing UCA and strut but adding ~1.5"? Should I just add the ~1.5" to the starting height when torquing the UCA bolts?
Let me know if I should provide additional truck details. Any help is greatly appreciated!
2014 STX Supercrew
4wd
Standard tire size (265 /70 R18)
Hey Mike.
Did you also redo upper control arms? I’ve read and been told that when doing UCAs it’s a good idea to measure from center of wheel first then match before torquing the new UCAs. That would be straightforward if keeping the same height but with leveling I’m not sure whether to just add the extra height.
Did you also redo upper control arms? I’ve read and been told that when doing UCAs it’s a good idea to measure from center of wheel first then match before torquing the new UCAs. That would be straightforward if keeping the same height but with leveling I’m not sure whether to just add the extra height.
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,769
Likes: 12,588
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
Hey Mike.
Did you also redo upper control arms? I’ve read and been told that when doing UCAs it’s a good idea to measure from center of wheel first then match before torquing the new UCAs. That would be straightforward if keeping the same height but with leveling I’m not sure whether to just add the extra height.
Did you also redo upper control arms? I’ve read and been told that when doing UCAs it’s a good idea to measure from center of wheel first then match before torquing the new UCAs. That would be straightforward if keeping the same height but with leveling I’m not sure whether to just add the extra height.
Anyway, the correct way to torque down the UCA's, and LCA's, is to have the weight of the vehicle on them. Has to do with bushing position to limit any noise and early wear on them.
Hey Mike.
Did you also redo upper control arms? I’ve read and been told that when doing UCAs it’s a good idea to measure from center of wheel first then match before torquing the new UCAs. That would be straightforward if keeping the same height but with leveling I’m not sure whether to just add the extra height.
Did you also redo upper control arms? I’ve read and been told that when doing UCAs it’s a good idea to measure from center of wheel first then match before torquing the new UCAs. That would be straightforward if keeping the same height but with leveling I’m not sure whether to just add the extra height.
I've never heard of having to do any measuring, although I can see where some **** retentive type might do it.
Anyway, the correct way to torque down the UCA's, and LCA's, is to have the weight of the vehicle on them. Has to do with bushing position to limit any noise and early wear on them.
Anyway, the correct way to torque down the UCA's, and LCA's, is to have the weight of the vehicle on them. Has to do with bushing position to limit any noise and early wear on them.

John stated it correctly. I use Icon 2.5s with SPC UCAs. The Icons went on first adjusted for minimum lift on my 2wd settling at under 2 inches. Later added the UCAs and they were torqued to spec with the truck settled on the shop floor. Same ride height with no adjustments made. KM
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Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,769
Likes: 12,588
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
Thanks johnday. That was my general plan but wasn’t really sure where to stop. In other words, how do I avoid overextending when supporting the weight on a jack stand? Seems like it would be easy to go too far or not far enough without the tire on, which would make torquing very difficult.
Ever watch them when you get new tires/wheels installed, and see where they jack the front up? They're using a spot directly under the lower strut mount. Just stick your jackstand there, and lower the vehicle. The stand will be supporting the same weight your tire would be if on the ground. 

Thanks all. I really appreciate it.
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 31,769
Likes: 12,588
From: Nowhereville, Barton City Michigan
Since you'll replace UCA's on both sides, you can set the jack stand to the height you want on one side, then set to the same height on the other side. It doesn't matter if the front isn't the same height as the rear, but I would recommend that you get it pretty close. The tire/wheel is what is called unsprung weight, and will make no difference if they're on the truck or not, and with them off, you can reach in there easier, instead of working around a tire.












