King pins
I changed some out on an older model, 65-66, years ago. I beat those king pins out with a two pound hammer and a length of 3/4" od brass rod with the axel on the truck. Not much fun. I remember the original ones had brass bushings that required reaming to fit the king pin, but the new ones I got had plastic bushings which required no reaming. I was glad to see that plastic. I didn't have a reamer. I knocked those brass bushings out, installed the new parts and hit the road in front of an oily blue cloud of smoke.
It is possible to shade tree this job, but it is a lot of hard work. Good luck if you tackle this job.
Last edited by Iron bottom; Aug 24, 2010 at 10:31 PM. Reason: add some info
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I changed some out on an older model, 65-66, years ago. I beat those king pins out with a two pound hammer and a length of 3/4" od brass rod with the axel on the truck. Not much fun. I remember the original ones had brass bushings that required reaming to fit the king pin, but the new ones I got had plastic bushings which required no reaming. I was glad to see that plastic. I didn't have a reamer. I knocked those brass bushings out, installed the new parts and hit the road in front of an oily blue cloud of smoke.
It is possible to shade tree this job, but it is a lot of hard work. Good luck if you tackle this job.
I plan on dropping the suspension and taking them to the local tractor repair shop. He has a monster press that should do it. How do I take the tie rods off? Do I use a ball joint fork? I have never done front end work before but the shops around here are afraid of them. They didn't want to put a motor in my van so I did that myself too. Thanks for the help, John.
Get a fork and the rod ends should pop right off. They're not that expensive and are a real time saver. I remember years ago, nobody wanted to work on anything with king pins. They're not that bad if they have been greased on schedule.
Finally, work safely under that truck and good luck.
Finally, work safely under that truck and good luck.






