Help me!!!
so if that (preceding paragraph) describes results of test, then you’ve confirmed that you have a fuel issue.
suggest that you take and post a picture of jour fpdm ground and the ground near/below fusebox. if you find that they look bad, clean them up; take/post pics of them cleaned. the restart/run truck and see if symptoms (failures) change.
? do you have ability to monitor fuel pressure via obd2 port ?
the test described in post five, when referring to pop/fire meant: did it go from a no start condition without the spray, to a start and run briefly condition right after using spray.
so if that (preceding paragraph) describes results of test, then you’ve confirmed that you have a fuel issue.
suggest that you take and post a picture of jour fpdm ground and the ground near/below fusebox. if you find that they look bad, clean them up; take/post pics of them cleaned. the restart/run truck and see if symptoms (failures) change.
? do you have ability to monitor fuel pressure via obd2 port ?
so if that (preceding paragraph) describes results of test, then you’ve confirmed that you have a fuel issue.
suggest that you take and post a picture of jour fpdm ground and the ground near/below fusebox. if you find that they look bad, clean them up; take/post pics of them cleaned. the restart/run truck and see if symptoms (failures) change.
? do you have ability to monitor fuel pressure via obd2 port ?
From what you have described you have a fuel pressure issue, probably the FPDM or the fuel pump its self. One way to narrow the issue is to jumper the FPDM when the problem occurs (looks like roughly 30 minute run time) and see if you hear fuel pump run. I know this is a pain but it would narrow the issue to either the FPDM or the fuel pump. Even new, aftermarket FPDMs fail sometimes fail right out of the box but you have had potentially three failures (original, + 2), not likely.
We have seen problems with the FPDM ground wire such as heavy corrosion and bad connections but I assume you have checked these thoroughly and they are ok.
Take a look at this video that shows you how to jumper the FPDM for testing.
These jumpers should cause the fuel pump to run full time as opposed to its normal part time operation and by observing its operation after i gets hot (greater than 30 minutes) allow you to determine if your fuel pump is the problem, .
My guess is that the fuel pump is OK and that the issue is still with the aftermarket FPDM or its ground
Keep us informed of your progress.
We have seen problems with the FPDM ground wire such as heavy corrosion and bad connections but I assume you have checked these thoroughly and they are ok.
Take a look at this video that shows you how to jumper the FPDM for testing.
My guess is that the fuel pump is OK and that the issue is still with the aftermarket FPDM or its ground
Keep us informed of your progress.
From what you have described you have a fuel pressure issue, probably the FPDM or the fuel pump its self. One way to narrow the issue is to jumper the FPDM when the problem occurs (looks like roughly 30 minute run time) and see if you hear fuel pump run. I know this is a pain but it would narrow the issue to either the FPDM or the fuel pump. Even new, aftermarket FPDMs fail sometimes fail right out of the box but you have had potentially three failures (original, + 2), not likely.
We have seen problems with the FPDM ground wire such as heavy corrosion and bad connections but I assume you have checked these thoroughly and they are ok.
Take a look at this video that shows you how to jumper the FPDM for testing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_ENBqE-XcM
These jumpers should cause the fuel pump to run full time as opposed to its normal part time operation and by observing its operation after i gets hot (greater than 30 minutes) allow you to determine if your fuel pump is the problem, .
My guess is that the fuel pump is OK and that the issue is still with the aftermarket FPDM or its ground
Keep us informed of your progress.
We have seen problems with the FPDM ground wire such as heavy corrosion and bad connections but I assume you have checked these thoroughly and they are ok.
Take a look at this video that shows you how to jumper the FPDM for testing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_ENBqE-XcM
These jumpers should cause the fuel pump to run full time as opposed to its normal part time operation and by observing its operation after i gets hot (greater than 30 minutes) allow you to determine if your fuel pump is the problem, .
My guess is that the fuel pump is OK and that the issue is still with the aftermarket FPDM or its ground
Keep us informed of your progress.
Wiring Diagrams can be found by searching
"2005 f150 wiring diagrams searchable PDF"
Depending on the engine that you have, go to page
23-7 for a 4.6L
24-7 for a 5.4L
25-7 for a 4.2L
As you can see from the wiring diagram the jumpers basically remove the PCM from the circuitry and the pump runs. It seems to me that the problem is in the wiring to the PCM (or the PCM itself, unlikely). Show the diagrams to your mechanic and ask him to do a continuity test on the wiring from Connector C433, pin 1 to the PCM connector and from pin 6 to the PCM connector. Battery needs to be disconnected first and test light should be used while avoiding contact with the PCM itself. The fact that pigtails were replaced may have added a failure point and if so it is likely in the wiring to the PCM. Connector numbers start with a "C" for example C433 and all connector are called out in Section 150 (for example C433 is on page 150-60) the location of each connector is called out in Section 151 (for example C433 is shown on page 151-20).
There is a lot of good information in the Wiring Diagram book including wire colors and wire sizes.
Wires should be wiggled while testing to detect possible broken wires.
Keep PCM disconnected at PCM connector C175B and battery disconnected while testing.
Keep us informed of your progress
"2005 f150 wiring diagrams searchable PDF"
Depending on the engine that you have, go to page
23-7 for a 4.6L
24-7 for a 5.4L
25-7 for a 4.2L
As you can see from the wiring diagram the jumpers basically remove the PCM from the circuitry and the pump runs. It seems to me that the problem is in the wiring to the PCM (or the PCM itself, unlikely). Show the diagrams to your mechanic and ask him to do a continuity test on the wiring from Connector C433, pin 1 to the PCM connector and from pin 6 to the PCM connector. Battery needs to be disconnected first and test light should be used while avoiding contact with the PCM itself. The fact that pigtails were replaced may have added a failure point and if so it is likely in the wiring to the PCM. Connector numbers start with a "C" for example C433 and all connector are called out in Section 150 (for example C433 is on page 150-60) the location of each connector is called out in Section 151 (for example C433 is shown on page 151-20).
There is a lot of good information in the Wiring Diagram book including wire colors and wire sizes.
Wires should be wiggled while testing to detect possible broken wires.
Keep PCM disconnected at PCM connector C175B and battery disconnected while testing.
Keep us informed of your progress









