Heating the bed
I'm on the fence here and I will admit that I have not yet done any searches on here to see if anyone else has either the same problem as me or if there are any good suggestions.
Long story short, I need a good, cost effective, solution to heat the bed area of my truck. Due to the temperature changes, my tools are getting condensation on them. I have a fiberglass cap.
Right now I'm torn between the LP heater option and running the water lines from the engine to the back and using a Mojave Heater. There is also the option of removing the front window of my cap and installing a gasket between the cab and cap and just opening the back window to heat it up that way.
Thoughts???
Long story short, I need a good, cost effective, solution to heat the bed area of my truck. Due to the temperature changes, my tools are getting condensation on them. I have a fiberglass cap.
Right now I'm torn between the LP heater option and running the water lines from the engine to the back and using a Mojave Heater. There is also the option of removing the front window of my cap and installing a gasket between the cab and cap and just opening the back window to heat it up that way.
Thoughts???
I'm afraid you might be fighting a losing battle. You have to keep the tools warmer than the dew point at all time. I know that would be very difficult where I live.
Depending on your climate, LP will likely be your only option. And you'll either have to take the tools in at night or park in a heated area.
I know from experience that you won't accomplish your goal by removing the window and installing a seal.
Depending on your climate, LP will likely be your only option. And you'll either have to take the tools in at night or park in a heated area.
I know from experience that you won't accomplish your goal by removing the window and installing a seal.
Before you remove the window and do the gasket thing, use a bike inner tube for the gasket and open the windows. That may give you some idea if it will work. You can buy various dia tubes. Just open the windows, inflate the tube a little and push it into place.
You might also try sealing the gaps around the tailgate and along the glass on the cap. That will help keep the heat in.
You could always run a circuit to the back and use an electric heater. It should not take much.
You might also try sealing the gaps around the tailgate and along the glass on the cap. That will help keep the heat in.
You could always run a circuit to the back and use an electric heater. It should not take much.
It might not take a lot in TX but it sure as hell does in MN. The window and electric heater won't work in MN. I tried it. The amount of heat required is too much for the electrical system at anything less than highway speed. At least it was for my '91. The charging system could not keep up during in town driving.
Edit: Maybe with an efficient inverter and 120 VAC heater. I don't know.
Edit: Maybe with an efficient inverter and 120 VAC heater. I don't know.
I should have mentioned that I live in Wisconsin. I do park in a heated garage at home. Also, Lakeland (my cap manufacturer) does offer some sort of gasket system that I need to call them about. I'm thinking it may be exactly what I was talking about. I was kinda testing the waters on here before I really start putting some effort into solving this problem.
I carry a full load of tools. I do facilities maintenance so I carry an air compressor, a few nail guns, an array of cordless power tools, hand tools, some materials, 4' & 6' ladders, extension cords, etc. Whatever solution would have to heat up the entire bed area. Doesn't need to be a comfortable temperature, maybe 40's or 50's.
Last edited by JoshWi; Jan 11, 2015 at 02:07 AM.
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If those were my choices I would chose the Mojave. Not sure I would want to be bouncing around with the LP running.
I once installed a second radiator in the back of an E250 van. The radiator in the back was set up as the primary. An inline thermostat would switch it to the original radiator if it got to hot. An electric radiator fan with a dash switch and we had major heat. We could heat the van up to about 110 if we wanted. The stock heater was only good for heating the divers shins. The whole project cost about $150 using junk yard parts and a bit of hose.
Years ago when my kids were still rug rats I had an accordion boot connecting the cab with the cap, worked very well to heat and cool the bed area, might want to consider some insulation on the sheet metal either spray on or stick on, it will help a ton.
Or get a bed tred pro like I have. Impervious.

Order boot by the foot http://www.accordionboot.com/truck-bed-camper-gasket
.
Or get a bed tred pro like I have. Impervious.

Order boot by the foot http://www.accordionboot.com/truck-bed-camper-gasket
.
Last edited by RLXXI; Jan 11, 2015 at 03:39 PM.





