i got a 93 f150 4.9l 4x4 and i have installed 89 f250 rear springs with lift blocks and i was raising the front end up. now i have a problem and i have stopped working on truck till i figure out if this is ok or not. i had installed this 2in coil spring spacer from summit racing. http://http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DYS-KF09108BK/ and now my moggc844 spring sits like this ( bending out words and i had installed new front shocks while i was at it and now the shocks are extened to the max and i mean MAX. what should i do not use this kit or keep going cause i know something will break if i use the 2in coil spring spacers.

 

sounds like...(without seeing a pic)...that you have the wrong size shocks..which is not allowing the coil to travel fully extended..that's why the shock is fully extended...you need longer shocks...I think...got any pics ??

 

Previous post is correct.

The shock is extended all the way. Don't drive it like that. There's a couple things you can do.
1. They make an extension stud that screws onto the top side of the existing shock to extend it. (kinda cheesy)
2. Install new shocks for a "2" lifted truck" (recommended)

BUT, HAVING SAID ALL THIS, even after you're done getting that issue straightened out, you'll have issues with you camber adjustment. Being a "twin Traction Beam" suspension, as you extend the springs, the wheels tend to bow inward at the bottom. You'll need to address that one of 2 ways.

1. get the special camber adjustment bushings (I believe Summit sells them too). They work for UP TO 2" inches of lift.

OR...

2. Install the center pivot drop brackets that are included in most lift kits. That's the proper way to do it and keep the correct geometry, but it's alot of work to install them because the original brackets are riveted to the frame crossmember.

Disclaimer... I've lifted MANY of these trucks (1980-1996). The best way to do it is with a complete kit with all bracketry, including the radius arm drop brackets, and all new bushings. If you do insist on not using the complete kit, you should get 2" liftcoils, instead of stock coils with spacers.

 

well here are some pictures



here is the driverside spring without the 2in coil spacer.


here is the passenger side with the 2in coil spring spacers. ignore the missing coating i was trying to do something with the coils and the coating just got scrapped off.



here is a side picture of the shock all i did to space it up is use washers


here is a picture of the positive camber i have after i am done. is it safe to drive cause the shop i am taking it to on tues is only a mile down the road.

 

Your last picture illustrates exactly what I was saying. Without the rest of the componenets of a complete lift kit, Your camber won't be right. Driving it like that will kill your tires in no time, ruin bushings, wheel bearings, and cause a bunch of steering and handling problems.

You really have to do this the right way, or not at all. I suggest calling Tough Country or Superlift or one of those companies, and ordering just the front end component kit for your truck. It shouldn't be more than $300.

http://www.tuffcountry.com/suspensio...lift-kits.html

The short trip to the shop won't hurt anything

 

would their be a camber that i can buy for a 4in lift now cause i dont have money for a leveling kit or is their a way i can tell my mechanic to get it close so it wont wear the tires. i would like to do it the right way but like i sad i dont have the money right now.

 

here are some day pictures of the camber


here is the pass. tire

drivers tire

 

I believe you can only adjust camber for up to 2" inches of lift with the bushings alone before you need the other brackets. If you have 4", that's not gonna work. You can adjust both sides all the way negative as they go, and it still won't be right. It'll be closer though.

Those look like BFG all-terrains. Expensive tires, and soft rubber. They won't last long like that.

I'm not trying to be a downer, but I just don't want to give you bad advice. As I said before, I've lifted many of these trucks.
That's really the problem with that front suspension. It was very strong, but hard to keep in alignment.

 

well i went up and asked my mechanic about an alignment and he said it would be hard to get close so he mentioned to me to replace the camber bushings and bring it back so i went and go some and well it was a failure trying to get the old ones off so i said screw it so i took all of the stuff off and will just go with a leveling kit so i will save up and get the kit and new tires. i will probably get 35's for tires and i will have to get new rims. at least i think 35s will fit with no rubbing if i do a lift.

 

so i may be bringing this thread back from the dead but i have a question. i go to a chassis shop not just an auto shop for my alignment. They say that they can shim it if the camber adjustment isnt enough. what does this mean exactly?