Ford 0% financing fine print?
08-07-2017, 11:15 AM
#11
Senior Member
08-07-2017, 11:52 AM
#12
Official HTT Greeter
When I bought my 2016 last year I tried for the 0% But the 3 dealers I talked to said "that truck doesn't qualify". Ended up with 4% through Ford. I looked at Refi-ing with my bank, insurance (state farm), and CU's all were about 3.5%, not really worth it being that I plan to have it paid off by end of next year......So I'm still with Ford.
08-07-2017, 03:59 PM
#13
Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
This guy understands factory financing. You do not get the rebates, period. You get financing and the truck at almost MSRP. Always take the rebates and get financing somewhere else.
08-07-2017, 04:11 PM
#14
Senior Member
The price you negotiate for your truck has nothing to do with the financing.
If you take the 0% financing, you will lose much of the rebates, but not all. Depends on what Ford is offering at the time. If you do the math, the rebates you lose by taking 0% financing will hit, or exceed, the cost of the financing being bought down to 0% by Ford. So, it's always best to take the regular Ford rate, with all rebates, and then refinance.
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gregsf150stx (08-08-2017)
08-07-2017, 06:20 PM
#15
Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
Not quite.
The price you negotiate for your truck has nothing to do with the financing.
If you take the 0% financing, you will lose much of the rebates, but not all. Depends on what Ford is offering at the time. If you do the math, the rebates you lose by taking 0% financing will hit, or exceed, the cost of the financing being bought down to 0% by Ford. So, it's always best to take the regular Ford rate, with all rebates, and then refinance.
The price you negotiate for your truck has nothing to do with the financing.
If you take the 0% financing, you will lose much of the rebates, but not all. Depends on what Ford is offering at the time. If you do the math, the rebates you lose by taking 0% financing will hit, or exceed, the cost of the financing being bought down to 0% by Ford. So, it's always best to take the regular Ford rate, with all rebates, and then refinance.
Ford keeps the regional rebates and discounts (sport appearance package, owner loyalty, etc) with any rebated tied to financing (0% for 60 PLUS 1000, the most common one), but any others are kept by the dealer.
08-08-2017, 12:13 AM
#16
a few comments about 0% first of all your paying sales taxes on the incentives your not getting, so if normally you would be getting 6 grand in incentives. around here that is nearly $500 in extra sales taxes your paying by paying more for the truck. The next thing is unless you keep the truck till you pay it ALL The way off your not realizing the entire value of it. If your only keeping your truck 3-4 years, it simply not worth it, your better off just paying less for the truck and paying for your financing. IMO your always better off that way because you never know for sure you will keep the truck that long. you could be in an accident and total it out 6 mos later. then what? 0% isn't a very good deal IMO.
08-08-2017, 09:47 AM
#17
Senior Member
SEMI WRONG.
You can still negotiate the bottom line price of the truck.
0% financing, for example, might have a small rebate associated with it, but not the hefty rebates otherwise associated with a traditional finance contract.
If you went the traditional finance route with an APR %age, then sometimes there is a ford credit rebate, last month, it was $1250.
But you can't get the 0%-1.9%-etc and the other traditional rebates unless there is a rebate attached to the 0% offer.
You can still negotiate the bottom line price of the truck.
0% financing, for example, might have a small rebate associated with it, but not the hefty rebates otherwise associated with a traditional finance contract.
If you went the traditional finance route with an APR %age, then sometimes there is a ford credit rebate, last month, it was $1250.
But you can't get the 0%-1.9%-etc and the other traditional rebates unless there is a rebate attached to the 0% offer.
08-08-2017, 09:51 AM
#18
Senior Member
I don't know how a sales contract is contructed where you live, but REBATES are taken off at the very bottom of the equation.
So, rebates would not the sales tax you were paying. The only variable that would affect the sales tax you paid was is you had a trade.
If you had no trade, you'd pay sales tax on the negotiated price of the truck, the sales tax would be added to that amount.
After all the taxes and fees were added to the selling price, THEN, the rebates would be subtracted at the end.
At least that is the way it is in TN.
So, rebates would not the sales tax you were paying. The only variable that would affect the sales tax you paid was is you had a trade.
If you had no trade, you'd pay sales tax on the negotiated price of the truck, the sales tax would be added to that amount.
After all the taxes and fees were added to the selling price, THEN, the rebates would be subtracted at the end.
At least that is the way it is in TN.
a few comments about 0% first of all your paying sales taxes on the incentives your not getting, so if normally you would be getting 6 grand in incentives. around here that is nearly $500 in extra sales taxes your paying by paying more for the truck. The next thing is unless you keep the truck till you pay it ALL The way off your not realizing the entire value of it. If your only keeping your truck 3-4 years, it simply not worth it, your better off just paying less for the truck and paying for your financing. IMO your always better off that way because you never know for sure you will keep the truck that long. you could be in an accident and total it out 6 mos later. then what? 0% isn't a very good deal IMO.
08-08-2017, 11:32 PM
#19
I don't know how a sales contract is contructed where you live, but REBATES are taken off at the very bottom of the equation.
So, rebates would not the sales tax you were paying. The only variable that would affect the sales tax you paid was is you had a trade.
If you had no trade, you'd pay sales tax on the negotiated price of the truck, the sales tax would be added to that amount.
After all the taxes and fees were added to the selling price, THEN, the rebates would be subtracted at the end.
At least that is the way it is in TN.
So, rebates would not the sales tax you were paying. The only variable that would affect the sales tax you paid was is you had a trade.
If you had no trade, you'd pay sales tax on the negotiated price of the truck, the sales tax would be added to that amount.
After all the taxes and fees were added to the selling price, THEN, the rebates would be subtracted at the end.
At least that is the way it is in TN.
08-09-2017, 12:16 AM
#20
buy whatever you want. the sales taxes are based on what you are paying for the truck. I just explained why 0% isn't the panacea some might think it is. why do I know? because I bought a truck once with 0% over 10 years ago, I trade my trucks in 4 years. you get better rebates with a traditional finance contract. as with anything if your getting more rebates AND 0% of course its worth taking a look at. but when they do 0% they are simply charging a greater amount for the truck and essentially charging you the entire amount of interest regardless if you want to sell your truck in 6 months. sell or wreck your truck in that time with a traditional finance agreement and your owing quite a bit less.