MustangAndy

Check with a member of whatever state you choose to buy from about quirks you may run into in regards to title, bill of sale, taxes, etc.

Differences for me between Oklahoma and NJ:

1. Oklahoma will give you a title even if you are financing - NJ holds it until you pay it off
2. You don't pay tax at the dealer, you instead got to a "tag" office for your plates, Once I was back in NJ I got molly whopped with taxes and essentially payed $1,800 for a set of license plates
3. If you plate a vehicle in Oklahoma the plates stay with the car even if you sell it. NJ you keep your plates and are supposed to turn them in to the DMV.

_

seventyeight

My short advice - buy a 2015+ and don't worry about any rust.

My long advice.....I often thought of doing the same thing albeit for a new truck. The prices I see in Texas are unreal compared to where I live. Plus so much selection on a lot of lots - hundreds of F150's on the lots compared to my local dealer who usually has around 12.

I had to get rid of my '09 because I saw rust starting in the rear cab corners last year. I was heartbroken as that was my "retirement" truck and had a lot of emotion involved with it. I couldn't afford a new truck at the time so I opted for a 2015 Lariat. I am done with rusting trucks - an sick of it! So I hope my new-to-me aluminum truck will last a long time.

Look around locally for a 2015 before you make the trip. If you add in the cost of a trip to Texas - figure in flying, meals, hotels, etc. into your decision. Add up that cost and add it to your budget and I bet you can find a 2015 that you like for the money.

Silver Fiend

Just an FYI, that rule changed as of July 1 for Oklahoma. Now the plates stay with the owner and go to the new vehicle.

Silver Fiend

Aluminum "rusts" too. So its not exactly the same, the effect is the same. Iron rusts in air, aluminum corrodes in the absence of air. If you ever work around boats, youll see guys scrub the paint of aluminum items and underneath its full of white powder that used to be aluminum. I've read the chemical nature of the process, but I cant remember the details to give you here.

C Michael

Another couple of resources are Autotrader.com and Texasdirectauto.com. They even advertise they will pick you up at the airport. Texas direct is now associated with Vroom.

charliecbp

I'm selling my 2011 Harley Edition AWD, 56,000 miles, lives its life inside with a cover over it, its been ceramic coated, probably going to get a limited

Wayne Hyrkas

Thanks everyone..i would love to get a 2015 but it's out of my Budget right now especially because I'm going to be buying a bigger house soon. I have found several trucks on CarGurus with limited rust and a 13 with absolutely none. It's an ecoboost with over 150k but I've read enough to not be afraid of a turboed engine

Wayne Hyrkas

The 2013 I'm looking at with no rust is an 3.5 with 177,000 miles. The lady who owned it before she traded it into Ford lives in the middle of nowhere. So it's for sure mostly highway miles. The salesman who brought it in could only tell me that it was well maintained, although there are no maintenance records. Does anyone know if it's illegal for me to try to find and talk to the previous owner personally? I would like to know if it's ever had major issues or if the turbos were ever replaced. I'd they were replaced at let's say 150,000 I would for sure buy it.

On a side note how do all the electronics in a high mileage lariat hold up?

Thanks!

Wayne Hyrkas

If I can't get any maintenance information or major repair history I think I'm going to have to keep shopping to find a 5.0. Everything I've read about ecoboosts make them sound as solid of engines as the 5.0, if not more so. But after 150k+ miles I'm going to be doing a lot more maintenance. And being that I've never done any work on an ecoboost I think simpler would be better. Also I literally NEVER tow anything, so the 5.0 would suit me better in that regard.

Wayne Hyrkas

Bump

How do the electronics hold up on high mileage lariats?