wde3477

I think tow straps are a little more forgiving, and perhaps more user-friendly to the novice.

The 'stretch-n-snap' type of straps worry me a lot - heard of too many, and have seen one incident where things break and someone has a massive slingshot hurling a piece of broken metal toward them or their vehicle.

Chains with hooks have a lot of adjustment availability to suit the situation. Straps that I've seen have at best a loop at the ends, so it can be more difficult to get positioned for a methodical pull.

Impacts caused when things are instantaneously stretched tight to their limits exude a tremendous amount of energy that can cause a great deal of physical and equipment damage.

It comes down to the question of is it really worth the risk to try to 'pop' someone out of a bad situation, or lacking suitable traction and environment, to buck-up and call for reinforcements that can methodically extract the vehicle safely. Both those using chains or straps need to understand this challenge.

Steve

Each piece of equipment has its own uses. Chains,straps and wire rope.
Straps are as strong now as chain and do less damage with more applications. If you do alot of winch outs a good investment would be an Cluster Hook. You can get one at AWDIRECT.COM Item CC-4 Its grade 70 steel and will hold @ 4 tons.
All vehicles have recovery holes to hook into. They are mainly behind the front or back tire. Hooking into them is safer because of the center of gravity. Its also beneficial to carry a ****** block if you have a winch.

Ty

so basically a cluster hook is....?

LovetheTide

I myself will never use a chain to get anyone or anything out. I have seen far to many horror stories or chains snapping ang going threw someones back window or front windsheild, only to miss the person inside by a few inches.

I have a Pro-comp 30K rope and love this thing, it is starting to show a little wear but that is just becuase of the way we hooked it up to a jeep's bumper one time. The loops on either end are great and have a leather sleeve on them to keep them from getting worn down, I personally would rather have the loop b/c you could use it with a hitch, shackel, or even with the u-hooks up front.

I also read somewhere that ropes/straps are better for yanking b/c they strech and create a rubber band affect of some sort.

NGM

No one had a tow strap. Plus for a straight pull a strap is not good. A chain is better. Wire rope is better than both for a straight pull. A ****** strap is just that. It is designed to stretch some then give an extra "pull" as it collapses back like a rubber band. It is designed to pop a stuck vehicle out of a hole where suction is holding it in. A chain is designed for a continous pull not snatching, because although strong the links are somewhat brittle.

Steve

Mostly it is used to winch a vehicle onto a rollback.
It has 3 hooks...T hook..R hook...J hook.
Its also used for recoveries of vehicles under 5000k
(If you can get under the vehicle)
Recovery holes are mainly on the frame or welded to it.
Sometimes its a hole thats reinforced in the undercarriage.
The holes are oval shaped. Some are for tiedown only because they sit high above the bumper and if you use for pulling you will damage the bumper.
You can also get a Bridle which has a set of clusters on both ends tom tie into both sides of the vehicle.

There is also what is called the Cruse Loop recovery....
You need a strap about 25 feet long.
This is used if the vehicle is buried up to the frame.
You open the doors and place the strap behind the front seats at floor level close the doors just until it latches on the catch.
Place the both ends of the straps if possible under the vehicle to a V point at the front or back in the direction of the pull.
This reduces the suction and also reduces the weight of the pull because the downward motion is reduced.

1. The strap should be clean, as not to soil the inside of the vehicle.
2. The shackle should be rated and sized to work in tandem with the Cruse Loop
3. The veer angle should be observed as closely as possible.

The veer angle is critical and should be adhered to in order to avoid damage.
The veer angle means the distance from the point of hook up to the effort. It should measure a distance of twice the width of the vehicle frame. A hook up of a lesser angle could cause damage.
The Cruse Loop method proved to be very effective during the test period on hundreds of models of vehicles, not only in schools, but in real life situations. Not only was there NO DAMAGE done to the vehicles, but the CRUSE LOOP method also lifted the end of the vehicle to prevent it from digging in while winching, thereby reducing the resistance.
An experienced recovery operator will quickly see many other uses for this concept

Ty

that sounds cool, but I would be afraid to do it on my truck, lol

do you have any pics of that meathod in action?

Steve

There was a diagram at wreckmaster.com but the recovery link is down
I will post it when I find it. I have it here in my books somewhere.