Starters, this about the boot/coil and if it looks like usual when pulled out? This is the first coil I've ever inspected. Or maybe I'll need to compare to my others, I just dont want to possibly damage the other be removing and reinstalling it.

This will be 2nd time this cylinder is having to replace the coil. I pulled it out and I question the image. Should it look like this? Changed it maybe 20k miles ago, and thats being very generous, maybe much less actually. But still, is the boot supposed to have all that residue? Or is this close to normal? Also, I'm no expert, def not a mechanic, not even a knowledgeable person when it comes to auto mechanics, but to me that looks like burnt oil residue somehow. Loose spark plug maybe?

And while I'm at it, there's a tapping/ticking sound coming from bay 2 like either cyl 6 or 7 as if a lifter is hitting something. Thats me thinking I'm educationally guessing with what I think I know. I've also heard its quite common. And to top it off, another guy said he's had success with finding a somewhat loose spark plug that turned out to be the culprit of his engine sound. Just some info exchange. Anyone have any useful thoughts or suggestions?

2004 F150 New body 5.4


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what are you working on there mike ?

 

posting specific details will help you get better suggestions

- identify truck details?
- identify dtc codes?
- how old are plugs?
- re torque plugs and clarify if they were loose and if torque changes symptoms

 

Using Ford parts ??
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I figured a used coil would generally look the same. Had no idea a 2004 F150 5.4 engine in the new body style getting a service engine light with a P0305 code needing to replace the coil again would be so specific. But thats the gist of it.

Not a Ford part; as the one pictured was installed by the shop that replaced it and looks very different from the other 7 yellow coils lol. Not Motorcraft. Mid level parts from parts stores. Like the replacement I got is Carquest Premium, so tbd if its any good.

 

P0305 indicates that you have a misfire on cyl 5. It does not indicate or diagnose the cause. You could have diagnosed actual cause prior to spending money on parts. Ex: if you thought it was coil, swapping coils with another cylinder would have proven or disproven the hunch.

 

Carquest premium ignition coil and Motorcraft spark plug

ya i thought about that, as many videos suggest. but I'm no mechanic and my tools and knowledge are limited, as well as time. i just figured changing the likely culprits out and getting it over with waas best option. I start a new job monday and figured it would be a quick fix since its happened on this cylinder before. But now I think the spark plug is fouled up. I dunno. I really dont care about much of what and why right now bc I just need it to work for the time being as my transpo. On top of which, I'm dealing with an electrical issue on the headlights not turning off unless I pull the 40 fuse every night and time I turn off truck for an extended time. I've also tried switching the main light switch and multifunction switch. And then now all of a sudden I'm having a misfire on #5 [again]. **See note below** Plus, now my fog lights no longer work- which is what I used as front end lights to be seen while my 40 fuse was out. This ordeal has been very frustrating. if I could afford it, I'd just leave it with a mechanic until fixed. Plus hard to find a straight honest mech that actually knows what they're doing without just replacing parts until they get it done. I cant stand that as they're just wasting money replacing some parts that werent necessary. So what if they're new parts, some people cant afford to just put in new everything. Great mechanics only need to change what actually needs to be changed or serviced.

**Note - So it started after my battery was dead and got a jump from someone. At first, they/we [their box] used a jump box and connected it wrong, which even started a quick small fire burning the battery cable until I ran to other side to put it out grrr. But after all was sorted out, got it jumped and drove home. Well after this I noticed my headlights wouldnt turn off at all. Now my headlights stay on even when vehicle is turned off with key removed. Have to pull #40 fuse to headlights to prevent battery draining during day/night. Drained my battery several more times but I kept charging it. Eventually started disconnecting the battery every night. Checked the headlight fuse and relays, but all are well. So now I just keep the main headlight fuse pulled out since I mainly drive during day. If I need to drive at night I'll put the fuse back in and pull it out when I get home. Brights work as long as fuse is in. But when out and raining, I just turn on my park lights and fog lights to be seen easier. So anyone have any other things I should check? Thats the gist of what happened before the issue arose, which I figure the false jump might've caused the issue, but coincidences do happen.
2004 5.4 Lariat ext cab

 

Sounds like you melted some wires and still not sure what motor you have ? that's not a COP from a 5.4 3V. is your truck a Heritage?

 

Parts cannon approach typically wastes time and money and often introduces new problems.

seems like you’re doing exactly what you’re complaining about bad mechanics doing.

Hope it works out for your though, good luck.

 

Haa for starters I stated I'm no mechanic. And the "bad mechanics" comes from actual mechanics [again not me] not exactly sure what the issue is and throwing parts at it until its fixed assuming customers have loads of money. I'm neither. So your lack of comprehension lead you astray. This is supposed to be a forum for help, no? Or just to blame the poster?

And I'm honored, a "senior member" took the time to make an already made point by myself in op