Bleeding problem
 

This is my first post, so hello everyone.
I have a 99 f150 5.4 triton. I just did a full brake job on it, including pads, rotors, calipers all around. Started at the right rear and disconnected brake line first ( mistake) in the time it took to Change the caliper and pads, the mc was drained dry. When trying to beat the rotor of, I had to turn it to beat the othe half so I put it in neutral which meant I had to push the brake (another mistake)
I went ahead and finished the job, bled the system, and the pedal goes straight to the floor when started.
I broke down got a new master cylinder, bench bled it, installed it, bled the mc fittings, then bled the calipers. Same thing, to the floor.
I have done several brake jobs on this truck in its 125,000 miles and never had this much trouble bleeding brakes.
At this point I have ran 6 qts of brake fluid through it trying every method available to me including pump & open, vaccume pump, gravity, speed bleeders.
I am at loss, any ideas?
Thanks

If you have 4 wheel anti lock brakes you have air trapped in the hydraulic control unit that has to be bled with a special computer interface, NGS is one and IDS is another. No other way around it.

I was afraid of that, guess Its off to Midas to have it bled, I hate that.
Just for future ref., was it because I mashed the pedal when the mc was dry?

Any time the hydraulic system is opened you risk air entering the system.

I would take it to the dealer. I don't know if Midas would have the tools for that.

Texasedition is exactly right, there is no mo local shop that has the software Around here. Ford wants $200 + to do the job. After being bent over by this dealership before, I'm trying to find another way.
Reading on other forums I found a trick by some saying to go to a gravel road, get it up to 35 mph slam on the brakes to activate abs pump, Do this 3 or 4 times then bleed calipers again, it will purge the air out. Anyone heard of this, or if it's true? Can I screw something else up?
Thanks agiain

That may or may not work, if you do it that way there's no guarantee it'll work and you would be stressing the master cylinder, when doing a service bleed with the scan tool it opens all of the valves inside the hcu at the same time and runs the pump motor, that purges the air out of the hcu and into the lines where it can be bled out the old fashioned way.

If you're close to the greater New Orleans area, I can do it for a lot less than the dealer.

Rnlcomp, thank you, I'm in NC, but it may be Cheeper to drive to the big easy (and more fun) but, are you saying its worth a try, or don't risk it and bite the bullet and pay big for my mistake?

I don't cut any corners when it comes to brakes. It's one thing to have a poorly running vehicle, it's an entirely different situation if you can't stop the pig. Pretty big hunk of Detroit iron.

Agreed, guess I'll get out the vaseline