AUTO points

Oil level: 1/4 qt OVER max line to ensure oil at start up

Fuel fill-up quit at 1st click (to save charcoal canister getting wet)

Air filter—clean every 5k or sooner in dusty conditions or replace

Throttle body cleaner (CRC): 30,000 or less

Coolant ph 8.5 to 10.5 to save flush, below 7 it is toxic to engine-aquarium supply store test strips: green/blue is fine, yellow or orange, flush

Battery terminal corrosion (and ground strap) screws up the Ox sensor, MAF

clean with soda, coat with grease. If it charge to 13.4 or less, the plates will corrode

Check DC voltage at battery. Also, the AC ripple test. Set the Meter to AC: Switch your digital multimeter over to AC Volts (not DC). Load Up the System: Start the engine and turn on your heavy electrical loads—crank the blower motor on high, turn on the high beams, and fire up the rear defroster. This forces the alternator to work hard. Take the reading: Connect the Red (positive) lead directly to the big battery output stud (B+) right on the back of the alternator. Connect the Black (negative) lead to the negative battery post or a clean engine ground. Read the Numbers: A healthy alternator should show 0.1 V to 0.2 V AC (or 100 to 200 millivolts). If that meter reads above 0.5 V AC, you’ve got a blown diode leaking dirty current into the system. It's time to swap the alternator before it fries a sensitive module.

Tires-rotate center worn to rear; put best tires in front

Brakes—from 50 to 10, smooth stop a few times, 60 seconds between

Engine start, 60 sec idle then ease away

Fuel injector cleaning (polyotheramine—PEA) use at 1/4 tank (Chevron techron concentrate, Lucas fuel treatment, Royal Purple Max Clean) 15,000 mi. Use “tier” fuel, not cheapo stuff.

MAF sensor, clean with MAF cleaner or replace—do NOT use carb cleaner

Power steering 30k - fluid drain and refill - cold engine, drain reservoir, fill, start, turn lock to lock 5 times, drain, repeat

Serpentine belt—if loose, the alternator slips a little; must be tight

Differential 60,000: remove cover, clean and replace grease if not amber

ECU disconnect battery, wait 15 minutes, drive 100 miles and it relearns

Spark plug gap open .002/.004 BUT not on turbos My two Ford are at 240k and 350k so

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

Wasn't aware there was grease in the differential. Both? Or just rear?

 

Uh, "oil.". My bad, old timer.
On every vehicle I ever worked on-I am 78 and have been under a few.
Get a basic maintenance sheet for your specific vehicle. Use a pan and back off the access bolt-don't remove it unless you need to. Let it drip and check the fluid.