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Air intake options help!

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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 10:54 AM
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Default Air intake options help!

I was putting a new thermostat on my 1995 f150 351 5.8 yesterday and decided to remove my air intake hoses so I could have more room to work. I pulled them off and it looks like the guy that owned it before me ripped a 2"x1" hole in the air intake hose. I can't find one for sale anywhere except the local ford dealer!
However, many places sell cold air intake conversions for around the same price point as the dealer sells the stock air intake hoses at... So should I buy the standard hoses, or make the swap to CAI? is there a CAI that's preferred if I do swap?
Any opinions or knowledge you can share would be helpful.

***other (maybe helpful) info. The truck has 30+ in tires and the exhaust pipe short and is aimed at the ground shortly after the CAT CONV.
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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1995, air intake, CAI, cold air intake,
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Old Oct 31, 2013 | 02:30 PM
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Help?
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 11:28 AM
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This post is doing me as much good as wiping before I poop....
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 02:27 PM
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With all the folks on these forums, I'd have thought you'd have gotten some answers by now.
I'm not sure how the previous owner managed to punch that big a hole in the intake hose, but sheesh!
I'm addressing both intake issues and performance/mileage in my next answers. As to intake first:
1- With what you've got on the truck already, my recommendation would be to go the CAI route. Both K&N and AiRaid have good systems. They'll give you good flow and a bit of a HP boost. They both produce about the same degree of improvement, so my deciding factor would be price. There are numerous vendors who sell these kits. They are simple to put on (an afternoon or less in most cases).
As to performance/mileage:
2- What oil are you using? Although you have an older truck, you can use a good synthetic blend. Unless you've already been using full synthetic with no adverse effects, I would not recommend going full synthetic until you talk to a dealer and find out if the truck has the newer style seals. On the older trucks with the original seals, because of the lubricity of the new synthetic oils, you can induce an oil seep on older engines. Once started, it's almost impossible to fix unless you change the seals out, which is a real PITA.
3- You can, however, change out the fluids in the transmission, differential, and transfer case (if 4WD) to full synthetic w/o problems. I am a great believer in Royal Purple. More expensive, but I've never incurred a problem with it.

I hope this is of help to you. There are a few other tweaks you can do, but each has pros and cons pertaining to mileage and/or performance. Good luck on the project and holler back if you need more info. Don't give up if it takes a while to get an answer.

Bob
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 03:03 PM
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Do the swap, I love my CAI
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Old Nov 6, 2013 | 10:48 PM
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I am not sure right now what oil I just put in lol I know that it's not FULL synthetic. I think it's valvoline high mileage 5w20. It gets very cold up here in South Dakota and that's what was recommended for my truck. But it does seem to leak oil often. And thanks for the reply! It's about time!
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 02:34 PM
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If you're using High Mileage oil, it should be a synthetic blend. However, if you're already seeping oil, DO NOT switch to full synthetic. Your leak will just get worse, not better. Do, however, run a check on all the bolts for your oil pan, valve covers, etc. If it's a main seal leak, there's little more you can do other than keep it as clean as you can for the time being. Due to the high lubricity factors of full synthetic, it will seep out even more efficiently than blend.
I am curious that you were told to use 5W-20 oil. I would have thought a 10W-30 would have been more appropriate. My truck, an '11 with a 5.0 and only about 35K miles on it, uses 5W-20. With the wear on yours, a thicker oil is normally more appropriate. This might be part of the reason you're using oil already. That said, however, double check with your local dealer and your owner's manual. I could be out in left field.
Since you're up in the Great Mid-North, I won't bother suggesting a thinner oil. There are some additive to help reduce oil consumption, but don't use more than one at a time. You don't want to turn your oil into syrup.
Good luck on all of the plans for your truck. Hope it works out for you.
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 08:04 PM
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Thanks... Lol but shortly after my oil change, this terrible squeeking noise started. It sounds like a belt, a very high pitched, LOUD belt.... So that's next on my agenda I suppose. After i get settled better in my new home, I'll hopefully just drop my oil pan and toss on a new one. I know it's not going to be that easy, but I'll figure something out...
Does anyone see the irony in me posting about needing opinions on how to fix my current problem, and everyone finds one more thing wrong? Lol don't get me wrong, it's better to know about it now then find out later on the side of the highway... Thanks for all your wisdom! Lol
So I should change my intake then? I looked online about any bonuses to having a CAI and saw hundreds of people bragging about theirs, and then these European guys on YOUTUBE had a eclipse w\ turbo all set up on a DYNO and it looks like they saw less than a 2% gain. And they routed it into the front and removed the headlight and had an A/c unit blowing into it for best results lol. So is it really practical? Or does it just sound/look good?
Thanks again for all your help
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 11:23 PM
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Depends on your budget. New k&n is at least $200. Caulk size tube of "the right stuff" by permatex is $30. Best sealant you can buy and a tube lasts forever. Patch up the old intake tube.

Is the hole by chance where a nipple should go that attaches a pipe to the oil fill neck. If so fixing that breather hose could also slow the oil leak down.

Last edited by sdmartin65; Nov 8, 2013 at 11:26 PM.
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