2012 IWE question.
07-09-2023, 02:45 PM
#1
2012 IWE question.
What’s up guys? Pretty new around here. I know there is tons of info in the archives but I haven’t come across my situation yet. My 2012 3.5 platinum is giving me the notorious Iwe chatter. I replaced my check valve first, went a day or so without hearing it. It came back the Following day. I said F-it I’ll change the lines out. Went another day without the noise. It’s happening again. I know it’s iWE because it stops when I put it in 4x. Does this rule out the actual iwe hub itself since it’s so “come and go” I’m not getting the meaty grinding most folks talk about. I’ll drop a video of my sound. Sounds like a heat shield to me, but again, goes away immediately in 4x. I feel the solenoid wouldn’t be the problem because of how quick I can bounce from 2wd to 4wd. Right? Anyways, just figured it ask. ****s driving me absolutely insane and I’ve had the truckfor a month. My first 150 so it’s kinda breaking my heart. Anyways, happy Sunday guys.
07-09-2023, 04:38 PM
#3
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Sort of indicates you may have vacuum problem, since you go to 4H and noise stops. You may want to check the dust shield on the knuckle on that side.
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BofDave (07-10-2023)
07-09-2023, 07:14 PM
#4
07-09-2023, 07:32 PM
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I'm sorry, my reply was a bit confusing in my wording.
Being able to shift to 4H, and the noise stops, is indicative of a vacuum problem.
The dust shield could be a source of a rattle. I'm just trying to eliminate that being what you could be hearing as well.
Earlier, we had a user basically jumping through hoops trying to stop rattling sound, turned out, it was simply his dust shield.
Being able to shift to 4H, and the noise stops, is indicative of a vacuum problem.
The dust shield could be a source of a rattle. I'm just trying to eliminate that being what you could be hearing as well.
Earlier, we had a user basically jumping through hoops trying to stop rattling sound, turned out, it was simply his dust shield.
07-09-2023, 08:19 PM
#6
I'm sorry, my reply was a bit confusing in my wording.
Being able to shift to 4H, and the noise stops, is indicative of a vacuum problem.
The dust shield could be a source of a rattle. I'm just trying to eliminate that being what you could be hearing as well.
Earlier, we had a user basically jumping through hoops trying to stop rattling sound, turned out, it was simply his dust shield.
Being able to shift to 4H, and the noise stops, is indicative of a vacuum problem.
The dust shield could be a source of a rattle. I'm just trying to eliminate that being what you could be hearing as well.
Earlier, we had a user basically jumping through hoops trying to stop rattling sound, turned out, it was simply his dust shield.
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johnday in BFE (07-10-2023)
07-09-2023, 10:14 PM
#7
last question, so with the solenoid unplugged it rode just fine. Does that mean I can cancel out the solenoid as the issue? If so I’ve already changed the check valve and the vacuum lines. So the only thing left is the actual iwe itself?
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07-10-2023, 06:29 AM
#8
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I'll attach a TSB from Ford on how they want their Techs to look for a leak.
The solenoid is pretty reliable, not usually the trouble.
When you changed out the checkvalve, did you notice any dirt or crap? On a 2012, over the years, some dirt may have been sucked in.
And finally, the TSB.https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...71859-0001.pdf
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BofDave (07-10-2023)
07-10-2023, 12:12 PM
#9
It's looking like that could be the problem. Do you have a vacuum pump? Pull a vacuum at the solenoid on the line going down to the IWE's first. If you have a leak, then go to each IWE. Many of us use the Mighty Vac pump from Harbor Freight.
I'll attach a TSB from Ford on how they want their Techs to look for a leak.
The solenoid is pretty reliable, not usually the trouble.
When you changed out the checkvalve, did you notice any dirt or crap? On a 2012, over the years, some dirt may have been sucked in.
And finally, the TSB.https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...71859-0001.pdf
I'll attach a TSB from Ford on how they want their Techs to look for a leak.
The solenoid is pretty reliable, not usually the trouble.
When you changed out the checkvalve, did you notice any dirt or crap? On a 2012, over the years, some dirt may have been sucked in.
And finally, the TSB.https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...71859-0001.pdf
dam dude, you are the man! Thanks went ahead and ordered a actuator. Def see some speckles and other **** in the check valve, on a tiny level but nonetheless. Replaced the entire iwe vacuum lines so I’m afraid that leaves one issue left. Hope I can pop that thing out without taking lower control arm off
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johnday in BFE (07-10-2023)
07-10-2023, 12:57 PM
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LOL, no problem man!!
You shouldn't have any trouble just leaving the UCA/LCA alone, except for busting the UCA balljoint out of the knuckle, once you take out the axle nut, you'll have tons of room. There are some "utube" experts out there that remove the caliper, rotor, etc.. Why? I have zero clue.
Biggest thing on reinstall is to make sure teeth on the IWE/Hub mesh, BEFORE, you torque down axle nut. If you don't, ruining a brand new IWE is possible. Ford says to pull a vacuum on the IWE, thereby getting it in the retract position, that's a good way as well, although I've always just used slowly tightening the nut, while rotating rotor. Once the teeth are lined up, you'll know it. IWE will engage, and you'll see the halfshaft want to turn.
Good luck, any ???, just ask.
Doesn't take much to hold that flapper in the checkvalve open, when it should be closed. There's been a few other guys that found dirt in the valve, and even the solenoid.
You shouldn't have any trouble just leaving the UCA/LCA alone, except for busting the UCA balljoint out of the knuckle, once you take out the axle nut, you'll have tons of room. There are some "utube" experts out there that remove the caliper, rotor, etc.. Why? I have zero clue.
Biggest thing on reinstall is to make sure teeth on the IWE/Hub mesh, BEFORE, you torque down axle nut. If you don't, ruining a brand new IWE is possible. Ford says to pull a vacuum on the IWE, thereby getting it in the retract position, that's a good way as well, although I've always just used slowly tightening the nut, while rotating rotor. Once the teeth are lined up, you'll know it. IWE will engage, and you'll see the halfshaft want to turn.
Good luck, any ???, just ask.
Doesn't take much to hold that flapper in the checkvalve open, when it should be closed. There's been a few other guys that found dirt in the valve, and even the solenoid.
Last edited by johnday in BFE; 07-10-2023 at 01:01 PM.