no spark, convinced and perplexed
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2023
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From: Tennessee
no spark, perplexed
To start with, the fusible link at my starter solenoid melted,, I replaced it. Fuel relay wouldn't work so I replaced it along with the coil, and the TFI on the distributer. Fuel relay still won't work, 12v is there. It turns over but has no spark, only sparks once when you let go of the switch. I have replaced the fuel pumps, (low and high pressure)tanks and reservoir, rotor, plug wires, plugs, and rebuilt the steering column. After all that it ran for about a week, then this issue came up. It's a 5.0 EFI and I can't figure this one out.
Last edited by RandyI; Nov 24, 2023 at 03:18 PM. Reason: Spelling
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 4,294
Likes: 1,388
From: Near Salt Lake City
Make sure your rotor in the distributor is turning (first)
When the roll pin shears, it will spark only once each time you crank it over
Same with the cam gears. If the distributor does not turn you get one spark
If all that is good, test your ignition switch or just provide 12volts to the red wire on the coil for a hotwire test
Your stator in the distributor may have failed if no spark and all other things check out okay
When the roll pin shears, it will spark only once each time you crank it over
Same with the cam gears. If the distributor does not turn you get one spark
If all that is good, test your ignition switch or just provide 12volts to the red wire on the coil for a hotwire test
Your stator in the distributor may have failed if no spark and all other things check out okay
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
the rotor turns, the relay won't pickup to run the fuel pumps but if you jumper the relay they run. just another twist. I haven't TS the ignition switch yet or put 12v to the coil...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Tennessee
Make sure your rotor in the distributor is turning (first)
When the roll pin shears, it will spark only once each time you crank it over
Same with the cam gears. If the distributor does not turn you get one spark
If all that is good, test your ignition switch or just provide 12volts to the red wire on the coil for a hotwire test
Your stator in the distributor may have failed if no spark and all other things check out okay
When the roll pin shears, it will spark only once each time you crank it over
Same with the cam gears. If the distributor does not turn you get one spark
If all that is good, test your ignition switch or just provide 12volts to the red wire on the coil for a hotwire test
Your stator in the distributor may have failed if no spark and all other things check out okay
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 1,037
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From: South Dakota
[QUOTE=RandyI;7515735]So what is the best way to test the switch and the PIP?[/
To test the ignition switch. Turn the ignition key to the run position and then see if you have power through one of the small wires that hook onto the coil. If you have power to the coil through one of those small wires that hook onto the coil, I would guess the PIP in the distributor is bad barring a bad wire in the coil and distributor area.
To test the ignition switch. Turn the ignition key to the run position and then see if you have power through one of the small wires that hook onto the coil. If you have power to the coil through one of those small wires that hook onto the coil, I would guess the PIP in the distributor is bad barring a bad wire in the coil and distributor area.
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Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 4,294
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From: Near Salt Lake City
I'll vote for that coil power test, and the easiest way I have found to test stators is to use a test distributor
Ford used to send us crate motors and never want the old ones back so we could save a few parts (distributors, coils and TFI modules)
I have also used a couple of new ones I bought that turned out to be turds due to the roll pin shearing
That is how I figured out the roll pin had sheered on mine when it did (before I took the cap off and noticed I could just turn the rotor by hand)
Ford used to send us crate motors and never want the old ones back so we could save a few parts (distributors, coils and TFI modules)
I have also used a couple of new ones I bought that turned out to be turds due to the roll pin shearing
That is how I figured out the roll pin had sheered on mine when it did (before I took the cap off and noticed I could just turn the rotor by hand)