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F150 lost all power to cab

Old 01-05-2019, 09:30 PM
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Default F150 lost all power to cab

I have a 1986 F150. I bought it almost a year ago for a hunting truck. The previous owner installed a push button start due to the actuator arm breaking. I drove about 30 minutes the other day and stopped. Shut the truck off. When I came back outside and switched the ignition into the run position, I pushed the push button start button and nothing. I waited about ten minutes and tried again. It started as normal. I got home and replaced the starter solenoid. Still nothing. I jumped the solenoid with the key in the run position and it fired up but the starter stayed engaged. I have no power inside the cab. No radio, headlights, dash lights, or dome light I checked the 3 or 4 fusible links at the starter solenoid and found no issues. Any suggestions?
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Old 01-06-2019, 02:35 PM
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Stop replacing parts.

Before we can help you diagnose the problem, you have to tell us exactly how the truck has been modified. If you're not sure, start uploading clear pics of everything related to the mods, and we'll tell you what we can't see in them so you can upload more. Start with the engine bay, battery terminals, starter relay terminals (there is no starter solenoid on an '86), steering column, ignition switch wiring, pushbutton wiring, & anything else that doesn't look original. A link that explains how to embed pics in your posts free (and how to fill in your signature) is in this caption:


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Old 01-06-2019, 05:03 PM
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I believe you mean "part" as in singular and most anyone would have replaced it. 1986 trucks do have starter solenoids. I've owned multiple. As far as modifications...the truck is completely stock with 41k original miles. The push button is the only aftermarket part.
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Old 01-07-2019, 08:09 PM
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When you say the actuator arm what do you mean? If you're talking about the rod that pushes forward and backward from the keyed switch then I'd like to know how your ignition is working at all. The actual ignition switch is mounted to your steering column. The rod that moves back and forth from the keyed switch is needed to operate the ignition switch. All the contacts for your real ignition switch are mounted on the column. Take off your steering wheel, get at the ignition switch, then drop the column down and take a look at the ignition switch, preferably after removing it. Those are the things I would check first. If everything is working and clean then we can dive into wiring. If I remember right, there is a Br/Bl 10 gauge wire which comes from your battery then splits into the fuse panel (for constant power circuits such as brake lights and hazards), and also to the ignition switch. Don't be surprised if you don't see that wire at the solenoid, because Ford had this strange habit of changing color codes in the middle of the wiring harness under the tape and looms. I found a few things like that on my 86'. From the ignition switch, once turned on there are several energized ignition wires, one is Pu/Bl and goes to the dual brake warning system, one is Lime colored and I can't remember where it goes, and another one goes to the fuse panel for blinkers, anyway you get the point. Let me know what you find.

I'd almost bet on the ignition switch being all screwed up, sounds like you should go to the wrecking yard and find out whats missing. Also, the dual brake warning system can sort of throw you off, the wiring diagrams are lacking in that area. I managed to bypass mine, but I can't remember what I did now. That circuit is annoying.

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Old 01-07-2019, 08:34 PM
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You know what, now that I read it again.... You say that with the key in the run position, you jumped it, and the starter kept on cranking? That's something there. I definitely think your ignition switch is messed up. It almost sounds like the PO used an alternate power source when he bypassed the ignition switch for the push button start, but then didn't unhook the starting circuit wire from the ignition, it would make sense at the time in order to get around the dual brake warning system, because the truck will not start if it's messed up. Than maybe the ignition switch broke a little more and so power is not being distributed to the truck in the correct manor. What a mess. I think you should head to the wrecking yard and find what parts are missing from your ignition and ket switch then fix it. Or just rewire the truck from top to bottom, get rid of that danged dual brake warning system, and use an after market ignition switch. Those are my plans for the future. I hate my trucks wiring,.....
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Old 01-08-2019, 01:49 AM
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Well, good luck with that.
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Old 01-09-2019, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
Well, good luck with that.
Got a problem again? Oh and yes, these trucks do have a starter solenoid, it's that thing that attaches to the fender well right by the battery, where the positive battery connects, you know, it engages the starter when you turn the key? It's hooked up to the starting circuit. The guy actually did give enough info when he posted his question if you know something about the subject. I've noticed you have a habit of going straight at people without a high thread count, maybe that's why this forum is so dead and people never stick around. Go away.
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