charging probelms
Thread Starter
SVT
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 16
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charging probelms
i have a 76 f150 and it keeps killin the battery i changed the battery,alternator,voltage regulator and ive got the starter soloniod but i havent changed it yet. Does anyone have any clue whats wrong i have disconnected every wire that i have ran ( Radio, Amp, Horn) and still nothing
Cody
Cody
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,805
Likes: 480
From: Cape Girardeau MO
How is the battery dying? Trying to determine whether it is a charging problem, or a electrical drain problem.
Does the battery go dead after being parked for a while, or is it more like the battery voltage continues to decline while the vehicle is running?
At this point, wouldn't think it would be the starter solenoid - but stranger things have happened.
Couple of random thoughts -
* The ignition switch does not truly kill the power as it should when the switch is Off - sort of permanently stuck in Acc mode, perhaps.
* Brake light switch or similar is stuck On.
* Wiring insulation failure resulting in a grounded condition - although would think this would pop a fuse.
* Alternator power cable hooked up to the wrong side of the starter solenoid relay.
* Problem with the alternator diode set - perhaps a stretch since you've put another one on.
* Bad battery - again, a stretch since a new one has been installed.
If you can lay your hands on a voltmeter - verify that the alternator is charging the battery. Should be in the 13-14 volt range at the battery with the engine running.
If you can get a DC ammeter - can start chasing any electrical drains.
Good luck - electrical problems are a pain to chase - and keep us posted.
Does the battery go dead after being parked for a while, or is it more like the battery voltage continues to decline while the vehicle is running?
At this point, wouldn't think it would be the starter solenoid - but stranger things have happened.
Couple of random thoughts -
* The ignition switch does not truly kill the power as it should when the switch is Off - sort of permanently stuck in Acc mode, perhaps.
* Brake light switch or similar is stuck On.
* Wiring insulation failure resulting in a grounded condition - although would think this would pop a fuse.
* Alternator power cable hooked up to the wrong side of the starter solenoid relay.
* Problem with the alternator diode set - perhaps a stretch since you've put another one on.
* Bad battery - again, a stretch since a new one has been installed.
If you can lay your hands on a voltmeter - verify that the alternator is charging the battery. Should be in the 13-14 volt range at the battery with the engine running.
If you can get a DC ammeter - can start chasing any electrical drains.
Good luck - electrical problems are a pain to chase - and keep us posted.
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 709
Likes: 31
From: Grants Pass, OR
It would be helpful to us if you would give more details about the problem.
What does "killing the battery" mean?
What diagnostics did you do to come to the conclusion about replacing the parts that you replaced?
What about wiring to/from each of those components?
I second the broken ignition switch theory. If the switch were not turning everything off then you could have power to things such as the ignition coil or choke heater, (If you have one) even with the key off.
Another thing to check is the light in the 'glove' box. make sure it goes off with the lid shut.
If none of those then pull the fuses and use an amp meter to test across each fuse socket to try and pinpoint a current draw that should not be there.
I saw the word 'amp' in your post. Some alternators /charging systems on older autos can't handle a 'mega' watt amp and still charge the battery.
Kevin
What does "killing the battery" mean?
What diagnostics did you do to come to the conclusion about replacing the parts that you replaced?
What about wiring to/from each of those components?
I second the broken ignition switch theory. If the switch were not turning everything off then you could have power to things such as the ignition coil or choke heater, (If you have one) even with the key off.
Another thing to check is the light in the 'glove' box. make sure it goes off with the lid shut.
If none of those then pull the fuses and use an amp meter to test across each fuse socket to try and pinpoint a current draw that should not be there.
I saw the word 'amp' in your post. Some alternators /charging systems on older autos can't handle a 'mega' watt amp and still charge the battery.
Kevin