aliens8mycow

You might get more info on the 87-96 forum.

Many of the car motors went to the HO with different firing order, roller cams, MAF intakes, etc. in the mid 80's. The trucks kept the flat tappet motor with MAP intake for quite a while longer - I think 94, but not sure exactly. My 91 still has a MAP motor.

walter34payton2002

So if I have the MAP intake I don't have the HO engine? Or do they have 8 million different combos like Ford always does?

walter34payton2002

Hey guys I must love punishment for 2 reasons. A) I am a Bears fan and that O Line is sickening. And B) I bought an O2 sensor today hoping it may help. The truck is running super rich so it may be a problem anyway. I will get the fuel readings and report back here, try to get the engine numbers, and will let you know how the O2 has affected things.

aliens8mycow

don't forget to disconnect the battery (negative terminal) while you do the O2 sensor. Once it's done, hook up the battery and drive it 10-20 minutes. Pull codes when you get home so we can see what is happening.

walter34payton2002

Ok guys. Still unable to borrow fuel gauge, but I will get it from my neighbor soon. New symptom though. Sometime when taking off from a stop or in traffic it will stutter hard like going on a very bumpy road and sometimes loses power. Sometime acceleration is erratic like I will gun it and it will go then rpms shoot higher a bit then stabilize lower pretty harshly. Sounds like a fuel problem to me. Does this sound right to you guys? I am inclined to drop the tank and check the pickup for crap and crap in the tank, maybe fuel lines clogged, ect. What say you?

guage

It sounds like the the trans torque converter is in lockup causing like clutch pop stall.

aliens8mycow

I'd check for codes before putting more time and money in a guess.

https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-re...es-obdi-10907/

Nitehawkjr

You were asking about the casting numbers on a 302 they are on the block where the starter bolts up most time you have to pull the starter to see them. The casting numbers for the heads are under the heads the date number is under the valve cover

AFSOCSGT

I have had this problem on both a Bronco 2 and 93 Mustang 5.0. both of my vehicles had a wire that was shorting out. I would start checking continuity between power wires and a good ground. Battery negative or frame. That is why the problem is intermittent, wiring moves.

walter34payton2002

Yeah, I thought about this. I am trying to really get a feel if this is the tranny, and I can't say that I feel it isn't. Here is my question: If it is the torque converter, then can I just change it to a new one or used if I so choose? Also, how can I tell if it is bad? I have noticed that the truck sometimes takes a while seemingly to upshift, but I am not sure if that is the governor not letting it switch until I let the rpms lower. If I let off the gas it will change gears no problem. It is a tad jerky, but every AOD Ive driven waS like that.

So, how can I tell if it is tranny/torque converter problem? Can I just change torque converter? When I did tranny fluid change, I did not notice ANY metal particles at all. I did not drain torque converter, just pan and filter. The original factory plug was sitting in the pan (you know the one that ford puts in the dipstick tube intil they put dipstick in), which either means that the fluid was never changed or someone changed the fluid and put the plug back in the pan. The mileage reads 23xxx, that could be 123xxx or 223,xxx, but if fluid was never changed then it would have to be 123. The fluid did not look too bad to me so I was inclined to believe it was changed in the past. The thing is that when I put it into gear it always either dies or tries to die and shoots back to life. This is like clockwork, which would mean to me that if it was fuel at least sometimes it would change behavior. If it was torque converter, the problem would be more reliable like it is. What do you guys think?