Chubbz

1985 F150 300 I6 4spd 4x4 standard cab base model long bed.


The first problem that I need help with is adjusting the carb. Got it to idle at about 850rpm but it seems it's starving for gas when the pedal hits the floor. There are 2 adjustment screws carb is believed to be factory or a 84 factory 1 barrel.


The second problem.. Rust is eating the floor. Wondering if I should rivet or weld it? Welding would be done with a 110v flux core wire feed without gas. I have some scrap sheet metal 22-26ga used for duct work will it work?? The rust ate out about 3in x 15in right inside the door under the track between the door wedge and where carpet normally goes. I can take pictures if that will help. Also anyone know where I can order replacement cab corners or do I have to fabricate them?


EDIT: Found a site that sells cab corners but also floor pans. Should I buy them or will my scrap metal work??


EDIT again: To add to the list need to reseal the doors and windows. Just not sure what I need in order to do it.. Any help is appreciated.

84ordF150

Chubbz....The carb air/fuel/idle adjustments are subjective to climate conditions...where are you located ? as far as the sheet metal requirements....LMC Truck and National Parts Depot both stock replacements as well as replacement rubber seals. If you can weld, it is always better to weld than to rivet. Spot rivet first for placement then weld the panel in. Concerning using your scrap metal....how good do you consider yourself at forming patch panels? We can't determine that.

handygeek

If I'm reading the description correctly the location of the rusted-out section is also close to the seat rails.
If that's correct then the integrity of the seats in an accident may be affected.
I'm not certain but I wonder if "duct work" grade metal is strong enough.
I'd talk to a metal building company and see if you can get some of the material they use as track for walls - they might even give you long enough pieces of scrap for your project.
That stuff is galvalume (galvanize injected during the manufacturing of the metal) and is designed to be attached to concrete and exposed to moisture.
Just some quick thoughts ... FWIW ... David in GA

1967 Tempest

agreed on the carb. If you are close to 07871, bring it by and I can take a look for free and help tune it up. I went through this on my 86 and Im pretty good at it.

22-26 GA is way too thin. I doubt that welder will weld it at all. Meaning you would just burn through the new stuff as the old stuff is thicker. I would be thinking 18GA. Plus that is where your feet are going to be resting. This stuff will fail as well.

If you can buy a floor panel, I would go that way. Then you can lay it into the old pane and trace around it and cut out the old stuff and butt weld it all around for a clean install. Alternatively, you can place it on the bottom and weld from the inside, but that would be a band aid.

Make sure you take extra time and make sure you are not close to the fuel line. Being that the truck is over 30, your fuel lines might be leaking and causing that hesitation that you are seeing. Would NOT take much heat to ignite that truck into a nice marshmallow cooker.

The fuel pump might be suspect as well. An easy test would be to remove the line from the carb and have it dump into a bucket. The carb should have enough in the bowl to run for a few seconds to see how good the pump is.

A quick check on Rockauto puts two fuel pump specs.

30GPH for the American L6 and
18GPH for the Canadian model.

Look on the door tag if it is there and it will tell you if the truck was assembled in Canada. You can gauge the amount of time the engine runs and how much gas it filled said bucket. Simple math and you will know if it is delivering the fuel required.

I ordered the wrong pump for mine, I needed the Canadian and got the AMerican. If yours is the American, I will make you a killer deal on the pump if I can find it.

Also the fuel filter might never have been changed out as well.

So my thoughts to where I would start the troubleshooting process is:

1. Check for vacuum leaks, this truck has miles of vacuum lines.
2. Check for leaks on fuel lines while truck is running for obvious leaks.
3. Replace Fuel filter. $0.96 on Rock Auto.
3.5: Check choke. The heat activated ones go bad and cause poor performance. Most likely stuck CLOSED.(ask me why I know that.)
4. Make sure the carb studs and bolts holding carb to manifold are tight (mine were not!)
5. Test fuel pump with a pressure gauge or the fill the bucket Vs. Time method.
6. Check EGR valve. If going bad it can cause this.
7. Perform tune up. New Cap and Rotor with new wires and plugs and a new ignition coil.

All of the above can cause a bog or hesitation under load.

burnthelight88

If its starving for gas when the pedal hits the floor, you're probably looking at a carb rebuild if it isn't the fuel pump. Kits aren't expensive and its not terribly hard if you're patient and organized. There's a power valve that is rubber and it disintegrates over time. A rebuild kit will have a new one.


That idle sounds high for a manual transmission. Look for a sticker on the valve cover that specifies what the idle should be. I know mine is 650.