302 v8 TEMPERATURE SENDER
The temp gauge on my 81 f150 does not work (I do not know for how long). I bought a replacement sender from advanced auto parts (only local in stock) and when I went to install it, the stud on top for the socket connection is a larger diameter than the original. Could this be a problem/could this be an indication that this sender will not function properly with the original gauge?
Post pics showing both senders & the harness terminal. Read this page:
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You should also put ALL the truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:
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Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.
(click this text)
You should also put ALL the truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:
(click this text)
Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.
Pretty common with the aftermarket senders (bigger stud)
Just spread the connector with a screwdriver and cram it on there
It should work fine
Note: If you ground that sensor wire, the gauge should peg max hot
and, If you put a test light on that wire it should have pulsating voltage about 5.5 volts (comes from the IVR)
Good luck
007
Just spread the connector with a screwdriver and cram it on there
It should work fine
Note: If you ground that sensor wire, the gauge should peg max hot
and, If you put a test light on that wire it should have pulsating voltage about 5.5 volts (comes from the IVR)
Good luck
007
The IVR only switches the full B+12VDC on & off - it doesn't change the voltage down to 5. But the average of 12V and 0V being off & on roughly equal time is ~6V, which is what the gauges work on.
Wrong
The IVR is a little square box with a coil of wire in it that reduces the voltage to around 5.5 volts
That voltage is supplied to the gauges
It is right in section 33 of the service manual
"The IVR supplies regulated voltage to the sender"
The IVR is a little square box with a coil of wire in it that reduces the voltage to around 5.5 volts
That voltage is supplied to the gauges
It is right in section 33 of the service manual
"The IVR supplies regulated voltage to the sender"
What do you suppose that means??? Have you ever looked inside an IVR? Have you ever tested one? Do you own a vehicle that uses one? Have you ever looked inside a gauge that works by an IVR?
Last edited by Steve83; Apr 23, 2023 at 04:24 PM.
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Yes, Yes and Yes
Where is your masters cert Steve?
That is why the masters exam has questions like, asking you which technician is right?\Tech A or B? and you will fail exam son, with your reasoning
Yes I have had one apart and have 3 cars with them
Never much trouble with them anyway
You just check the pulsating voltage
You are overthinking it IMO
Where is your masters cert Steve?
That is why the masters exam has questions like, asking you which technician is right?\Tech A or B? and you will fail exam son, with your reasoning
Yes I have had one apart and have 3 cars with them
Never much trouble with them anyway
You just check the pulsating voltage
You are overthinking it IMO
Post pics showing both senders & the harness terminal. Read this page:
(click this text)

You should also put ALL the truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:
(click this text)

Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.
(click this text)
You should also put ALL the truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:
(click this text)
Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.








