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1985 keeps stalling after getting up to temp

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Old Jun 1, 2020 | 02:34 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ElJefe162087
...when it breaks you're just going to throw it away?
If it costs more to fix than it's worth, of course. Without missing a beat. I wouldn't think twice.
Originally Posted by ElJefe162087
...if you can't adapt a bond to a vehicle...
I bought my '83 Bronco in 1989. I've ripped the fenders off a few times; I've wrecked it more than a dozen times; I've rolled it over once; I've blown the engine twice; 3 transmissions; 4 transfer cases; 4 rear axles; 2 front axles; 2 replacement bodies; 1 replacement frame; I built the entire wiring harness...

But I've also put nearly a million (actual) miles on it, and I did all that work myself, so its cost per mile is still VERY low.
Originally Posted by ElJefe162087
How much and where can I get my hands on a decent gauge for the fuel pressure?
Many parts stores loan special tools for a deposit (or free, if you're a regular customer), so call around. A decent one is in the $40~100 range.

(phone app link)

Last edited by Steve83; Jun 1, 2020 at 02:36 AM.
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Old Jun 1, 2020 | 10:46 AM
  #12  
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Well I dropped it off at the shop this morning should find out by the end of the week and have it fixed by next week
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Old Jun 5, 2020 | 11:09 PM
  #13  
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got it out of the shop today and they told me I need a new distributor. I'm installing tomorrow. But I just bought a 84 Honda Shadow 700 and now I'm devoting most of my time to building that.Truck is still stalling but not as bad. I noticed that its getting hot when it's doing it so I have a spare thermostat which I'm putting in along with the new spark plugs and doing a radiator flush. We'll see what happens after that. The mechanic did say that the wiring is old so I'm thinking about replacing all the wiring under the hood. I don't care about wasting money on replacing everything because that means that everything will be brand new eventually. I am going to price a coyote crate motor because I'm thinking that I want to lower it only a few inches and make a bad *** street rod.
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Old Jun 6, 2020 | 06:36 AM
  #14  
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I wouldn't go replacing all the wiring under the hood because it is old. If the insulation is crumbling off a wire, yes it is bad, not because it is old.You will be digging a deep hole which you will not be able to get out from.. I am suspicious of your mechanic's diagnosis since you said you replaced the distributor and it didn't change anything in your previous post. When it stalls and you cannot get it started, check for loss of spark and fuel. You are losing one and that would be the direction I would go with it.

Have fun with your project. Myself, removing an engine with 60k miles to make a "bad ***** street rod, spending $$$$$ on a new crate engine for a truck that is worth 1500 makes as much sense as putting wings on a fish.

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Old Jun 7, 2020 | 02:37 AM
  #15  
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My derby car mechanic friend told me it was the ignition control module on the distributor. Last week I bought the ICM and also a new distributor at the same time. I put the whole new distributor with ICM in but it still ran like crap, mind you I suck at timing and just winged it. Later that day I put the new spay plug wires in, took out the new distributor and out the old one back in with a new ICM. When it still stalled I noticed the temp gauge getting a little high so I dropped it off at the real mechanics. I should've put the new distributor back in first. They told me that I need a new one. So yesterday I get it out of the shop and drive it and its a little better but still under power is either shorting or hesitating. It stalled out on me so I pull over and take the cap off the old distributor that's installed and put the new distributor cap on. It helped a little but still having problems. I'm going to flush the radiator and install the new spark plugs that I have along with the new thermostat that I already have. I will see what happens after that.
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Old Jun 11, 2020 | 07:20 PM
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Any update on the old girl?
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Old Jul 2, 2020 | 02:59 AM
  #17  
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So a new distributor has been put in oh, the one I got from O'Reilly's was defective so I have to take back now and get my money back. Also replaced, idle air control, starter solenoid which makes this second replacement, starter, ignition wires, has still yet to put in the new NGK spark. Since getting the truck out of the shop I've noticed that it still has the hesitant feeling when you get on the gas. Someone is told me that it might be a vacuum leak like it's sucking in too much air when you give it throttle. I'd really am at a loss right now because she is just about to roll over 60,000 miles. I mean she does get me from point A to point B, but it's like Driving Miss Daisy. I see one hose that has a break in it on the passenger side of the engine compartment right behind the radiator, I'm going to electrical tape it tomorrow to see if that is possibly the problem. Other than that the truck is great I've been neglecting it lately because I've been riding my motorcycle more and learning more about old school Honda Goldwings and how to work on them. Now I know this is a Ford forum but a friend of mine who is a Chevy nut offered to LS swap my F-150. What're your thoughts on that?
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Old Jul 2, 2020 | 05:45 AM
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Blasphemy. Have you changed the fuel filter.
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Old Jul 3, 2020 | 03:17 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Johnboy429bbf
Blasphemy. Have you changed the fuel filter.
yes and sending unit too.
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Old Jul 3, 2020 | 02:58 PM
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Could have plugged the new filter especially after changing the sending unit. Could hve some junk in the tank and sucked it up. The ignition control modules on the drivers side fender liners are finicky. Id swap the same 2 back and forth on a 80 about every 2 months. Sometimes if it was raining or i was in a hurry id get by with smacking it with a wrench. Theyre real simple to switch out.
Also these trucks are particular on electric. Bad grounds cause alot of issues.
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