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1984 4x2 Newbie looking for tips

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Old Feb 8, 2018 | 04:54 PM
  #1  
BigKat's Avatar
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Default 1984 4x2 Newbie looking for tips

Hey all,

bought a rust free red 1984 300cid L6 4x2 a few months back. Already changed the leaking power steering lines, fuel sender (old had faulty readings on the gauge), and a few other quick parts. Ive got some clutch shudder from what I suspect was the power steering leaking in on the clutch, however I’m not sure. I’ve got a slight drip of dark fluid from the clutch housing after running the truck.

Here’s my question: The original owner put some really bad looking Mazda rims on the thing, but I would like to get some original looking rims, maybe from LMC truck. Would you recommend 15x8s? Or 15x10s for this 4x2?

Also, I’m think about some Radials with the white lettering on the outside, but what size rubber do y’all recommend?
looking more for a run around town truck vs all terrain tread.

thanks for the help y’all,

bigkat
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Old Feb 8, 2018 | 05:13 PM
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welcome! I had an 84 F250 in high school. I dunno how the power steering would have leaked in on the clutch, unless it ran down the bell housing and inside somehow, I've never seen that before. sure the master or slave cylinder isn't leaking? a lot of times those would or could use power steering fluid, it could be leaking down the firewall. if it's coming from inside the bell, then it could be the input shaft seal on the gearbox or the crank seal on the engine. any fluid or oil on that clutch would cause slippage or shudder. I would definitely pull the access cover on the bottom of the bell between the engine and gearbox to inspect. also look over the hydraulic system for the clutch to make sure it's not leaking.
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Old Feb 8, 2018 | 08:21 PM
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Default Clutch Leak

Thanks kmac,

I completely agree, i think it is the input shaft seal or the crankshaft seal. The previous owner had the gearbox and hydro lines rebuilt and refurbished, so I don't think its the master or slave cylinder. Also, I had to replace the output shaft cylinder (which was a son of a ***) at the tail end of the gearbox which leads me to believe the other seals need replacement.

A lot of stuff im finding on this truck are all original parts that are just now failing, but the previous owner was a older gentleman who just accepted the leaks and dents.

Any thoughts on wheels and tires?

Thanks again,

Bigkat
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Old Feb 9, 2018 | 11:07 AM
  #4  
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From: Memphis, TN, Earth, Milky Way
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All engine leaks (oil, PSF, coolant, fuel) run to the back & down to the bottom of the bellhousing. So the fact that it drips from there does NOT indicate that the actual leak is anywhere near that area. Start by washing the engine (a garden hose & spray bottle of Dawn/PurplePower/SimpleGreen is enough) to remove all residue & most of the accumulated grime.


(phone app link)


When it's dry, check FREQUENTLY for the first sign of a leak. Keep a flashlight & inspection mirror handy. Use your phone to snap pics from angles you can't see directly. Follow any leak forward & up to its actual source.

The "correct" tire size is on the VC label in the driver's door jamb:


(phone app link)


31s were the largest stock tire for these trucks, and although you can usually get 32s on without any mods, takeoff & acceleration will suffer as the diameter & top speed increase. Virtually all tires now are radial - I wouldn't put bias tires on a farm truck. The choice of white showing on the tires depends on the overall look of the truck - mine looks better with blackwalls.
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Old Feb 24, 2018 | 12:35 AM
  #5  
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I went with some American Racing Outlaw II wheels. I got 16x8. 10" is just too wide and expensive for my tastes. They look similar to what was offered in some of the earlier 90's.

As a side note, the rims from 70s-96 are all standard measurement and should fit without issue. I say that because there are lots of junkyard wheels out there that will save you some serious cash. Just depends on where you live and what kind of yards you got to check out.
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