1979 starting problem
berkley62
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: kingsport, tn
wat that diaphram does ir everytime u hit the gas or pump it, it sprays fuel into the carb kinda like a primer its on the bottom 4 screws to it, jus clean it good an adjust ur fuel screws ta where u jus got a small steady stream comin out ur side plug an then put it back in, not much to em.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
I followed that video and did the rebuild to the carb. The float was missing a few parts that made it sit too low and the diaphram was in **** poor shape. Sadly, the rebuild made no change to my problem.
I went to Auto Zone to get something else and while there I asked the guys what they thought. They suggested changing the ignition barrel, which was odd, because the key turns just fine. But whatever, I had no other idea. The new barrel wouldn't seat properly and when investigating, I stuck a screwdriver in there the whole ignition switch behind the dash fell apart.
I bought a new ignition switch and that pretty much fixed my problem. I can turn the key and as long as my foot is on the accelerator, it stays running. If I let the truck try and idle, it cuts off. I guess I just need to adjust the idle settings on the carb. Not sure what those are, but I'll find them online somewhere.
Now I know.
I went to Auto Zone to get something else and while there I asked the guys what they thought. They suggested changing the ignition barrel, which was odd, because the key turns just fine. But whatever, I had no other idea. The new barrel wouldn't seat properly and when investigating, I stuck a screwdriver in there the whole ignition switch behind the dash fell apart.
I bought a new ignition switch and that pretty much fixed my problem. I can turn the key and as long as my foot is on the accelerator, it stays running. If I let the truck try and idle, it cuts off. I guess I just need to adjust the idle settings on the carb. Not sure what those are, but I'll find them online somewhere.
Now I know.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
Get a 3'-4' section of hose with a ID of 3/8's or 1/2" and use it to listen to all the vac lines for leaks, use it around the intake manifold, vac connections. Listen for a hissing sound. Take a small piece of vac line to autozone and have them pull you a few feet of rubber hose that fits over the vac line.
$24 or so will get you a timing gun that you can use to time it and make sure that is all good, very easy to do, just follow the instructions off the emissions sticker, let me know if you need anything.
BTW in that video he explains in detail how to set your mixture screws which only make a difference at idle, as well as fast idle cam adjustment and curb idle.
Autozone and like places sell a carb adjusting screw driver that is bendable to get to the mixture screws....
Have you done a tune up yet?
$24 or so will get you a timing gun that you can use to time it and make sure that is all good, very easy to do, just follow the instructions off the emissions sticker, let me know if you need anything.
BTW in that video he explains in detail how to set your mixture screws which only make a difference at idle, as well as fast idle cam adjustment and curb idle.
Autozone and like places sell a carb adjusting screw driver that is bendable to get to the mixture screws....
Have you done a tune up yet?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 36
Likes: 1
I was able to get my idle set better, it's pretty good at this point. I'll look into getting everything top notch here soon. I'll check the video again to catch all the info that's in there.
I have no clue what-so-ever when it comes to vac lines, I wouldn't even know what they look like, besides it being tubes. That's something I'm going to have to do more research on.
I have not done a tune up yet. I'm moving this weekend so my funds are allocated to that, but once I'm settled in I'll get to that. Thanks for all the help.
I have no clue what-so-ever when it comes to vac lines, I wouldn't even know what they look like, besides it being tubes. That's something I'm going to have to do more research on.
I have not done a tune up yet. I'm moving this weekend so my funds are allocated to that, but once I'm settled in I'll get to that. Thanks for all the help.
Cpt. Howe
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Arlington, WA
You need to do a complete tune up on your rig, it's amazing what that will do. I just got an '81 w/ the 302 and had similar problems. I'd pick up some seafoam to run through the carb then make sure the idle is properly adjusted while in gear. Also check to see if your carb is spitting out gas. You can boil all engine problems down to three categories: air, fuel, or spark. I start with one of these and slowly eliminate them until I find the culprit, go from the cheapest solution and working up to the more expensive ones.
Last edited by Cpt. Howe; Apr 6, 2011 at 01:13 AM.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: northern lower Michigan
Hi,
I did a search first and didn't come up with anything easily so hopefully this hasn't already been addressed.
I have a '79 302 that I got this past winter. In the cold it always had a hard time starting up but after a three or four tries and some idling, it would get there. Now that it's warmed up a bit it only takes maybe two, but lately I felt it lurch a few times while driving. I sprayed carb cleaner in there but it didn't seem to help at all.
Today I stopped for gas and it wouldn't start back up. I assumed it was maybe flooded so I let the carb sit open for a bit and let some fumes out but no change. Gas squirts into the carburetor and I get a spark. I had someone drop off a new coil assuming that's what it was at first but it made no change.
When I turn the key the engine cranks and when I press on the gas the engine roars but if I let go of the key or the gas it just shuts off immediately.
Just for some history, this is my first truck and I know little about automotive stuff. I got it because automotive work is the last frontier I don't know much about. Thanks a lot.
I did a search first and didn't come up with anything easily so hopefully this hasn't already been addressed.
I have a '79 302 that I got this past winter. In the cold it always had a hard time starting up but after a three or four tries and some idling, it would get there. Now that it's warmed up a bit it only takes maybe two, but lately I felt it lurch a few times while driving. I sprayed carb cleaner in there but it didn't seem to help at all.
Today I stopped for gas and it wouldn't start back up. I assumed it was maybe flooded so I let the carb sit open for a bit and let some fumes out but no change. Gas squirts into the carburetor and I get a spark. I had someone drop off a new coil assuming that's what it was at first but it made no change.
When I turn the key the engine cranks and when I press on the gas the engine roars but if I let go of the key or the gas it just shuts off immediately.
Just for some history, this is my first truck and I know little about automotive stuff. I got it because automotive work is the last frontier I don't know much about. Thanks a lot.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 499
Likes: 21
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Manual choke is much better on a truck this old in most people's opinion, you get so much more control over how the truck runs.
The "spinning" you heard was probably the starter continuing on. Its a sign of a bad solenoid or bad wiring. Replace solenoid first. Solenoids are shoddily made and the aftermarket ones tend to not last that long, luckily they're also cheaply replaced. Most guys carry a spare solenoid in their truck.
The "spinning" you heard was probably the starter continuing on. Its a sign of a bad solenoid or bad wiring. Replace solenoid first. Solenoids are shoddily made and the aftermarket ones tend to not last that long, luckily they're also cheaply replaced. Most guys carry a spare solenoid in their truck.