Thread Lock on Lug Nuts
Sometimes there are errors in Vendor catalogs and terminal program listings that go un-noticed.
The computer system at the stores are built and furnished by other services. Errors and omissions happen by the one who does the program entries and don't know better..
The large bulge diameter it to be sure the wheel does not pull off over the Lug Nut, in rough off road use.
Car/ Road only wheels are not normally used off road hence the smaller diameter Lug Nuts..
I used Dorman Nuts and was very expensive in my opinion, but correct.
Believe it or not, there are very heavy specifications for building wheels for public use to minimize failure and liability, excluding accident causes etc.
Good luck.
The computer system at the stores are built and furnished by other services. Errors and omissions happen by the one who does the program entries and don't know better..
The large bulge diameter it to be sure the wheel does not pull off over the Lug Nut, in rough off road use.
Car/ Road only wheels are not normally used off road hence the smaller diameter Lug Nuts..
I used Dorman Nuts and was very expensive in my opinion, but correct.
Believe it or not, there are very heavy specifications for building wheels for public use to minimize failure and liability, excluding accident causes etc.
Good luck.
If you go to Mcgards website no where is it claimed they use stainless steel in their lugnuts, Summit just added that. Stainless Steel is too soft for lugnuts, you can find no rust stainless steel lugnuts but they have a steel cap kind of reverse of what the factory two piece Ford lugnuts have.
Wow! That's an interesting twist. I did the hunt at Summit Racing using the vehicle input and found these stainless version:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m.../2022#overview
I even entered the sub-model Platinum. These stainless have all the correct specs but no "bulge" what soever. Just the taper. If those Mcgards have the sub-sized "bulge" then they rely on only the taper to support the wheel lug hole. When I read all the threads about bulging Ford lug nuts, I get the phone book, including dismissed law suits. It appears that the Mcgard 64073 has the right size taper and bulge cone seat.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m.../2022#overview
I even entered the sub-model Platinum. These stainless have all the correct specs but no "bulge" what soever. Just the taper. If those Mcgards have the sub-sized "bulge" then they rely on only the taper to support the wheel lug hole. When I read all the threads about bulging Ford lug nuts, I get the phone book, including dismissed law suits. It appears that the Mcgard 64073 has the right size taper and bulge cone seat.
Thanks again for the help. When I look at reviews, I'm seeing far more that mention rust on the Gorilla brand.
I should get the 64073 from Summitracing tomorrow. I'll let you know how they measure up. The search tools on SummitRacing and MCGARD are fairly extensive. This is the tile that applies to our truck.
Update. I received the new 64073 McGard nuts. They are definitely a different size. I called McGard and they verified that they are for my OEM wheels. I sent SummitRacing an email asking for confirmation.Looking them over, they seem to be smaller than the OEM Ford lug nuts for our 2022 F150 Platinum.I do understand that the OEM lug wrench will not fit, as the OEM socket size is 13/16" while the McGard 64703 is 22mm. And they are not to be used on steel wheels. Our wheels are the OEM 20" polished aluminum wheels, standard on the Platinum Group 701A.
Should I be concerned that the 64073 will damage the OEM wheel?
Should I be concerned that the 64073 will damage the OEM wheel?
Wow! That's an interesting twist. I did the hunt at Summit Racing using the vehicle input and found these stainless version:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m.../2022#overview
I even entered the sub-model Platinum. These stainless have all the correct specs but no "bulge" what soever. Just the taper. If those Mcgards have the sub-sized "bulge" then they rely on only the taper to support the wheel lug hole. When I read all the threads about bulging Ford lug nuts, I get the phone book, including dismissed law suits. It appears that the Mcgard 64073 has the right size taper and bulge cone seat.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m.../2022#overview
I even entered the sub-model Platinum. These stainless have all the correct specs but no "bulge" what soever. Just the taper. If those Mcgards have the sub-sized "bulge" then they rely on only the taper to support the wheel lug hole. When I read all the threads about bulging Ford lug nuts, I get the phone book, including dismissed law suits. It appears that the Mcgard 64073 has the right size taper and bulge cone seat.
I would be very interested in the measurements of the Gorilla 61148FS or the 61148FSBC
Update. I received the new 64073 McGard nuts. They are definitely a different size. I called McGard and they verified that they are for my OEM wheels. I sent SummitRacing an email asking for confirmation.Looking them over, they seem to be smaller than the OEM Ford lug nuts for our 2022 F150 Platinum.I do understand that the OEM lug wrench will not fit, as the OEM socket size is 13/16" while the McGard 64703 is 22mm. And they are not to be used on steel wheels. Our wheels are the OEM 20" polished aluminum wheels, standard on the Platinum Group 701A.
Should I be concerned that the 64073 will damage the OEM wheel?
Should I be concerned that the 64073 will damage the OEM wheel?
Now this opinion may not be exactly what you are looking for but, I think the 60 deg angle is what locates the truck wheel, and if you inspect the contact marks on a stock wheel nut you will see it only contacts so far up the angle.
I think most of the damage comes from tire folk with the wrong size worn sockets and impact guns over time. If the wheel is located and zipped on with low torque then finished by hand, the chance of damage to the wheel and nuts will/should be minimal even by careless operators.
I watched a tire guy destroy one of my lock nuts before I stopped him and requested he use a bar by hand to loosen the locknut, the impact was vibrating and bouncing on the surface as they were using the battery style impacts. My mistake, should have taken the locks off myself before I went there, lesson learned.
If the concern is about the size of the bulge above the taper, then why not just get new factory OEM nuts, they should last a few years anyway, really not much cost over time for peace of mind.
I think most of the damage comes from tire folk with the wrong size worn sockets and impact guns over time. If the wheel is located and zipped on with low torque then finished by hand, the chance of damage to the wheel and nuts will/should be minimal even by careless operators.
I watched a tire guy destroy one of my lock nuts before I stopped him and requested he use a bar by hand to loosen the locknut, the impact was vibrating and bouncing on the surface as they were using the battery style impacts. My mistake, should have taken the locks off myself before I went there, lesson learned.
If the concern is about the size of the bulge above the taper, then why not just get new factory OEM nuts, they should last a few years anyway, really not much cost over time for peace of mind.
Now this opinion may not be exactly what you are looking for but, I think the 60 deg angle is what locates the truck wheel, and if you inspect the contact marks on a stock wheel nut you will see it only contacts so far up the angle.
I think most of the damage comes from tire folk with the wrong size worn sockets and impact guns over time. If the wheel is located and zipped on with low torque then finished by hand, the chance of damage to the wheel and nuts will/should be minimal even by careless operators.
I watched a tire guy destroy one of my lock nuts before I stopped him and requested he use a bar by hand to loosen the locknut, the impact was vibrating and bouncing on the surface as they were using the battery style impacts. My mistake, should have taken the locks off myself before I went there, lesson learned.
If the concern is about the size of the bulge above the taper, then why not just get new factory OEM nuts, they should last a few years anyway, really not much cost over time for peace of mind.
I think most of the damage comes from tire folk with the wrong size worn sockets and impact guns over time. If the wheel is located and zipped on with low torque then finished by hand, the chance of damage to the wheel and nuts will/should be minimal even by careless operators.
I watched a tire guy destroy one of my lock nuts before I stopped him and requested he use a bar by hand to loosen the locknut, the impact was vibrating and bouncing on the surface as they were using the battery style impacts. My mistake, should have taken the locks off myself before I went there, lesson learned.
If the concern is about the size of the bulge above the taper, then why not just get new factory OEM nuts, they should last a few years anyway, really not much cost over time for peace of mind.











