Got around to removing the lift blocks and installing Roadactive Suspension this weekend on my week old Powerboost.

Went...ok. Would have been nice to have a longer socket, that or buy the 2 wheel drive u bolts. Once I figured out how to remove the lift blocks it wasn't too big of a deal. Did not buy new ones or bolts.

Installing the RAS was ok as well. They say to use a socket to stretch out the spring, I could not fit one in the space and had to use a wrench. That was probably the worst of it. Think I need taller jack stands as the ones I have don't leave much room even at their tallest. Worked out fine though.

Did not install the bump stock spacers. The lift blocks are about 1 1/2" thick, the spacers included with the kit are 3/4", so I should be fine.

I was trying to NOT raise the rear end of the truck any higher than stock. That is why I removed the lift blocks. My thinking is that with the RAS it will resist squating better than the stock springs.

Ending up lowering the rear of the truck a bit.

 

It will be interesting to see how the truck responds to a load. My prediction is that it will squat about the same as before, but the handling will be better.

 

This was mine. I didn't mess with the blocks. I moved my car back a few inches to reduce the tongue weight a bit after this picture. 24 ft enclosed trailer with a 67 Chevy II in it.

 

Do you change the RAS tension when not towing?

 

I never touched it after installation. It only goes to "work" when the suspension is loaded.

 

Was able to hook up my camper today. Perfectly level with nothing else loaded in the truck.

 

Can you remind us…standard duty or heavy duty RAS. And what mm did you space the spring gaps at?

 

HD version currently using the smaller spacer.

 

so if my math is correct, the HD RAS gets you about 1.5 inches of lift?

 

About an 1"