It is my friend's truck; a 2022 F150 XL with a 2.7L. It is a work truck. The interior lights would not go on after sitting overnight, but they would go on during the day after he ran the truck. Checked the battery and it was 11.65V after sitting. Charged and let sit overnight and it was 12.7 when fully charged and 11.6 after sitting overnight. He took it to the dealership who said there is nothing wrong with it. The interior cab lights still did not go on if the truck sat. After sitting the voltage was in the mid 11 volts. I removed the battery negative cable and charged the battery with the cable off. The battery was charged into the high 12 V. It maintained 12.58V after sitting overnight.
After the negative cable was connected, the interior lights work as they should. He took it to the dealer again, because I felt the problem was not resolved. The dealership put in a new 2yr warranted battery. Now he lost his auto dimming high beams and his daytime running lights. I checked the settings, and the auto dim was on, the light switch was in the Auto position. Unfortunately, He did this in his last weeks of his warranty. He is out of warranty by 2 weeks and I would like to have some idea before he goes back again.

Any ideas?

 

I'm feeling like a broken record. I suggest, and that doesn't mean it will always be a cure all, try a KAM reset. Some realize I recommend this whenever electronic things go awry.
IMO, this would be the first thing a guy should try, free, easy to do, and just might solve some problems.
Who knows who at the dealer changed out the battery, it may have been the hacks in the fastlane, that don't even know how to rotate your tires, at least at my dealer.
Doing the reset has solved some electronic problems for me that weren't, on the surface, even related to each other.
Give it a shot, there's nothing to lose other than possibly presets for your radio, and maybe a couple settings you can redo on your IPC, the center screen in front of your steering wheel.

 

Would disconnecting the negative cable overnight do a KAM reset? Internet instructions say to leave it idle for three minutes. I didn't do that, but I did leave the cable of overnight.

 

Sorta kinda. The way I do it
Disconnect negative terminal
Turn on your headlights, that drains any residual power in the myriad of black boxes. Some disconnect both terminals, and touch them together.
15 minutes is a good time frame
Turn off headlights
Reconnect negative terminal.
As mentioned, it's not always a fix.
Oh, it may throw off your transmission learned behavior, just drive it as normal and the trans will relearn.

 

I was a Maserati, Alfa Romeo and BMW OEM technician and its disturbing how many electrical issues are fixed with a control module reset. We called it "logic lock". I just removed the negative and shorted it to the positive to drain the capacitors of all voltage (they drain in a few seconds that way) and reconnect and clear faults.

That being said, it looks as if the OP is talking about a parasitic drain. If you have access to an amp meter, preferably inductive you can test for this easily. Current draw should be less than 50 milliamps after the vehicle electrical system "goes to sleep" which is generally all doors closed and key off for 15 minutes. be sure the key fob is not nearby. I put an inductive amp meter on the negative cable as the positive usually has many branches and the negative is a single cable. If you exceed 50 milliamps its time to start looking for the offending circuit which is a separate diagnosis path.

 

Good 'ol have you tried turning it off and back on. LOL

 

Automotive CNTRL-ALT-DEL.....

 

If anyone with Powerboost reads this thread, do NOT just do the above “touch negative to positive terminal” on the engine compartment battery. Powerboost owners ALSO have an aux battery under rear seat that you must disconnect before doing this “reset” or you’ll be in for a “shocking surprise” (pun intended).

 

.
Just a note, on Ford, the hood has a latch switch that is part of the Sleep cycle and even see it displayed on the Dash screen.
With the Hood ajar, the switch has to be manually operated closed as signal to the system or sleep current won't reduce to the lowest level.
You can't see the drain results with the hood closed. Once you open it, the system wakes up and current rises and you lose the importance of doing a test for sleep drain.
Another reason for the Hood Switch is so the remote FOB cannot crank the engine if it is being worked on and Battery Neg. not removed.
Good luck.

 

All good info. Yes, all doors trunks and hoods need to be opened but latched so the system will go to full sleep. Good add.