400w inverter problems
Ok, so mine stopped working when I plugged in a yard tool battery charger marked under 300w but it stopped charging after a few minutes.
replaced fuse# 35 in passenger footwell but still got the orange led on the outlet.
suggestions?
replaced fuse# 35 in passenger footwell but still got the orange led on the outlet.
suggestions?
According to the Manual, Light On is providing power to the Outlet.
Light off, no power being provided.
Light flashing is a fault.
.
Your light On would be a normal no-fault condition.
Maybe the charger has some issue.
Try some other device to see if that works.
Good luck.
Light off, no power being provided.
Light flashing is a fault.
.
Your light On would be a normal no-fault condition.
Maybe the charger has some issue.
Try some other device to see if that works.
Good luck.
Some comment on these 300/400 watts outlets.
A. The voltage may not be 120 v-ac but 110 vac.
B. The Device attempting to be used near these limits, may be sensitive and self limiting in some way.
C. A Voltage conversion is being done that is not very efficient.
12 volts to a Converter that has its own conversion losses to raise the Voltage from low DC to high AC.
The AC wave form is not a true Sine Wave like household power, but some form with a lot of distortion in its shape that may not be acceptable to the device connected.
.
*****Power from the Battery has to equal all power consumed or lost to the total circuit load connected.*****
Examples: for 300 wats.
At 110 volts AC, 300 watts = 110 vac x 2.7 amps = 297 watts.
DC Current from the Battery, assuming no conversion loss, would = 12 vdc x 25 amps = 300 watts. ***** see above*****
As for Battery performance, it makes a difference without the engine running, at 12 volts vs when running the system is at over 14 volts DC to the Converter.
.
If the Device must have 120 v-ac, then the Example changes to 120 x 2.5 amps only a tenth or two lower in load Current. Not a big difference but at the Battery for running at 14 + volts, the Current to the system drops to 22 amps +/-.
.
Remember, Converter losses have not been included in the above examples so there is actually more current required than in the examples, to account for those losses.
In converter losses, that loss is in the form of heat generated and radiated away. If too great, the Converter shuts down on over-load and should make the outlet light either flash a fault and/or shut down power to the load, plugged in.
An Off /On for Re-set and or time to cool may be required to have the Outlet powered again.
The power system has to have these over-loads shut down protections or the Converter becomes damaged and could even result in a Battery drain out of control.
Good luck.
A. The voltage may not be 120 v-ac but 110 vac.
B. The Device attempting to be used near these limits, may be sensitive and self limiting in some way.
C. A Voltage conversion is being done that is not very efficient.
12 volts to a Converter that has its own conversion losses to raise the Voltage from low DC to high AC.
The AC wave form is not a true Sine Wave like household power, but some form with a lot of distortion in its shape that may not be acceptable to the device connected.
.
*****Power from the Battery has to equal all power consumed or lost to the total circuit load connected.*****
Examples: for 300 wats.
At 110 volts AC, 300 watts = 110 vac x 2.7 amps = 297 watts.
DC Current from the Battery, assuming no conversion loss, would = 12 vdc x 25 amps = 300 watts. ***** see above*****
As for Battery performance, it makes a difference without the engine running, at 12 volts vs when running the system is at over 14 volts DC to the Converter.
.
If the Device must have 120 v-ac, then the Example changes to 120 x 2.5 amps only a tenth or two lower in load Current. Not a big difference but at the Battery for running at 14 + volts, the Current to the system drops to 22 amps +/-.
.
Remember, Converter losses have not been included in the above examples so there is actually more current required than in the examples, to account for those losses.
In converter losses, that loss is in the form of heat generated and radiated away. If too great, the Converter shuts down on over-load and should make the outlet light either flash a fault and/or shut down power to the load, plugged in.
An Off /On for Re-set and or time to cool may be required to have the Outlet powered again.
The power system has to have these over-loads shut down protections or the Converter becomes damaged and could even result in a Battery drain out of control.
Good luck.
Good thoughts....I think I need to go out and plug something in like a 60w light bulbs.....With the engine running of course.
Next truck is going to have to be a 3.5 with the 2.? KW set up. You can never have too many watts.
Next truck is going to have to be a 3.5 with the 2.? KW set up. You can never have too many watts.







