Whipple Questions
#1
Yup
Thread Starter
Whipple Questions
After doing some reading on this forum about Whipple setups that their latest cal files, I have some questions about how to get off on the right foot.
I am looking to purchase a new '18 or '19 in the next 30 days to replace my Raptor as the timing rattle is driving me nuts and would rather start over. I tow my RZR very occasionally, off-road occasionally, and spend the majority of seat time ripping up and down I-35 between Dallas and Austin at or, ahem, a bit above the posted limit. Will you all help me sort out a good starting point? I'd rather bite the (cost/time) bullet up front on the build.
I have a few questions for you all, and I would appreciate some input.
I am looking to purchase a new '18 or '19 in the next 30 days to replace my Raptor as the timing rattle is driving me nuts and would rather start over. I tow my RZR very occasionally, off-road occasionally, and spend the majority of seat time ripping up and down I-35 between Dallas and Austin at or, ahem, a bit above the posted limit. Will you all help me sort out a good starting point? I'd rather bite the (cost/time) bullet up front on the build.
I have a few questions for you all, and I would appreciate some input.
- Has anyone noticed an appreciable difference between '18s and '19s in terms of which is better to supercharge (or which has a better cal for it)?
- Is there any reason not to go Stage 2, a smaller pulley, LTs, and a tune (outside the fact that Whipple wont sell you a warranty for it)?
- Is the HP tuners module the way to go? I have an nGauge left over from the Raptor that I will probably keep and use for a monitor.
- I saw some concerns mentioned about towing when the shift points were set way high 7-7.5k+, should I keep my tune conservative or can OZ just cut me a second tune for towing?
- Are OPGs, a CS, and a damper worth doing DDing it?
- Is the undertaker kit geared to those that track their truck? I didn't think the Stage 2 kit required a voltage controller.
- I will DD this thing and really just hot dog around a bit. Where is the (so far) happy point in boost that seems to not cause problems? So far, I am liking TX-Ripper's setup. 12.5 lbs or so with LTs and an exhaust seems about right. It will be rare for the to start from a dig, it will be mostly highway downshifting and long (or probably short) pulls up to speed.
#2
Senior Member
I can answer a few of these,
1. Engine wise they are the same. The tuning capabilities are the same
2. In my opinion, no.
3. Yes, HP tuners. If you go with the undertaker kit from OZ, you'll need to rent a MVPi2 I believe for datalogging.
4. OZ can give you a tune for towing with lower shift points if you think you'll be towing at WOT
5. If you're going stage 2, absolutely 100%. It takes 1 bounce off the limiter or one aggressive WOT shift to break the OPG
6. No necessarily, Just makes more power and includes what you need to make it work.
7. It's going to make some steam on 12.5psi for sure. It will be plenty for the street/highway
1. Engine wise they are the same. The tuning capabilities are the same
2. In my opinion, no.
3. Yes, HP tuners. If you go with the undertaker kit from OZ, you'll need to rent a MVPi2 I believe for datalogging.
4. OZ can give you a tune for towing with lower shift points if you think you'll be towing at WOT
5. If you're going stage 2, absolutely 100%. It takes 1 bounce off the limiter or one aggressive WOT shift to break the OPG
6. No necessarily, Just makes more power and includes what you need to make it work.
7. It's going to make some steam on 12.5psi for sure. It will be plenty for the street/highway
#3
Senior Member
These are just my opinions based on experience and what I’ve read:
1. Whipple upgrades any 18-19 to the latest cal, which happens to be 19. So there is no difference in cal. However, if it were me I would go 2019, hoping ford got some of the gen3 5.0 growing pains and infant mortality sorted out.
2. Stage 2, yes. Smaller pulley, probably. LT’s, no. Tune, depends.
3. I don’t think the ngauge will do you much good. I do believe you can modify the whipple cal with the latest hptuners stuff.
4. I believe the whipple tune shifts early for this very reason (reliable towing). With an aftermarket cal that shifts past 7000, you could just lock it in a higher gear if you get in that situation. Most people know better than to hold their supercharged 5.0 at 7500 rpm for extended periods while towing.
5. With the whipple cal probably not a necessity. I haven’t heard of anyone other than Dorian breaking an opg and he is making big power, spinning it high, and beating on it mercilessly.
6. What is an undertaker kit?
7. I haven’t heard of anyone breaking a modern 5.0 from simply running too much boost. The knock sensors keep you out of detonation within reason. The key is finding the boost you can run and make best power. As you add boost, the computer senses knock and pulls timing. The timing constantly floats on these trying to find the detonation limit. If you add a psi and lose 2 deg of timing, you probably didn’t gain any power. On my mustang, I think going smaller than the 3.625 pulley loses power unless you find a way to increase octane.
1. Whipple upgrades any 18-19 to the latest cal, which happens to be 19. So there is no difference in cal. However, if it were me I would go 2019, hoping ford got some of the gen3 5.0 growing pains and infant mortality sorted out.
2. Stage 2, yes. Smaller pulley, probably. LT’s, no. Tune, depends.
3. I don’t think the ngauge will do you much good. I do believe you can modify the whipple cal with the latest hptuners stuff.
4. I believe the whipple tune shifts early for this very reason (reliable towing). With an aftermarket cal that shifts past 7000, you could just lock it in a higher gear if you get in that situation. Most people know better than to hold their supercharged 5.0 at 7500 rpm for extended periods while towing.
5. With the whipple cal probably not a necessity. I haven’t heard of anyone other than Dorian breaking an opg and he is making big power, spinning it high, and beating on it mercilessly.
6. What is an undertaker kit?
7. I haven’t heard of anyone breaking a modern 5.0 from simply running too much boost. The knock sensors keep you out of detonation within reason. The key is finding the boost you can run and make best power. As you add boost, the computer senses knock and pulls timing. The timing constantly floats on these trying to find the detonation limit. If you add a psi and lose 2 deg of timing, you probably didn’t gain any power. On my mustang, I think going smaller than the 3.625 pulley loses power unless you find a way to increase octane.
The following users liked this post:
isthatahemi (04-30-2022)
#4
Senior Member
Buy a 2019, they are less likely to have “factory” engine issues.
stage 1 is you want or believe in warranty’s
stage 2 will make 60 wheel Hp over the stage 1
i would not do opgs or longtubes unless less you just have money to burn.
just go with the whipple tune and if you want to track it get a custom.
stage 1 is you want or believe in warranty’s
stage 2 will make 60 wheel Hp over the stage 1
i would not do opgs or longtubes unless less you just have money to burn.
just go with the whipple tune and if you want to track it get a custom.
#5
Yup
Thread Starter
Awesome. Thank you all for the input. I'm leaning towards a '19 and starting with just the stage 2, although I will probably spring for the after-aftermarket tune if I don't like the driving manners. I'll give it some time before I decide what to do with the pulley I suppose. I am not saying that I expect a problem with the canned Whipple tune, but there is no substitute for a relationship with a good tuner and having them dial it in along the way so that it is right on the nuts.
#6
Senior Member
Awesome. Thank you all for the input. I'm leaning towards a '19 and starting with just the stage 2, although I will probably spring for the after-aftermarket tune if I don't like the driving manners. I'll give it some time before I decide what to do with the pulley I suppose. I am not saying that I expect a problem with the canned Whipple tune, but there is no substitute for a relationship with a good tuner and having them dial it in along the way so that it is right on the nuts.
#7
Yup
Thread Starter
So I live in DFW and have access to all the good stuff. There is a VP just down the rod where I can get 100 octane if I were feeling froggy. That’s said, I travel quite a bit and will probably plan on 91 to be safe for the times I am out in west Texas. (Multiple tunes is probably a good idea)
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
So I live in DFW and have access to all the good stuff. There is a VP just down the rod where I can get 100 octane if I were feeling froggy. That’s said, I travel quite a bit and will probably plan on 91 to be safe for the times I am out in west Texas. (Multiple tunes is probably a good idea)
#10
Yup
Thread Starter
Random thought: the 501a mid that has my eye at the moment doesn’t have the tow package. From a driveline cooling perspective, is the difference between those with and without towing packages the radiator? I’ve seen a lot of conflicting information. I worry that the extra load from the Whipple would cause me problems without that towing package. I suppose I could just swap radiators.