Martlet

Makes me want to find something that needs a switch.

WITTYID0000

This is really cool. Definitely will be placing an order for the mesh replacement.

KustomFX

iTrader: (3)

Feel free to email me at: lethalweapon09@yahoo.com when you're ready or have any questions.

Thanks,
Brett

KustomFX

iTrader: (3)

I want to Thank you for all the orders and interest in the KustomFX switch panels!

Recently, there have been a few questions about using relays.

Please keep in mind that it is common practice and SAFE automotive wiring to use a relay in your accessories.

Most major brand light kits will already come with a relay wiring harness, and your switch panels and switches simply replace the switch that came in your kit.

But many also buy JUST a pair of LED lights, or light bar.... please purchase a relay wiring harness so you do not have any wiring issues or fire hazards.

There is a formula: Watts/12v = amps

Example: one purchases a 300 watt LED light bar....
300/12 = 25 amps!!! Thick 12 gauge wiring is STILL inadequate to power that light bar without the risk of a wire meltdown if just running direct without a relay!!

Here's a Quick chart:

Gauge.....capacity
12ga........20 amps
14ga....... 15 amps
16ga....... 10 amps
18ga........ 7 amps
20ga........ 5 amps
22ga....... 3 amps

WHEN you use a relay, the relay and internal coil & contacts will take the amperage draw.... NOT your switch or switch wiring. Most automotive relays are 40 amp rated. The relay will take the load and it's ONLY milliamperes that will go thru your switch and switch wiring. This will NEVER change if you use a relay. ... Plus you can also use your "power in" as a "trigger wire".

Using a relay is the safe way to wire your accessories, especially higher amp draw type of lighting. And yes.... each switch should have their very own relay.
It does make more wires in your engine compartment, but again it's the correct and safe way to wire up your accessory lights.

The wire size in the power cable I use is 20 gauge.... it works great.... you MUST use a relay in your wiring system. Again, it's the correct & safe way.

In the meantime, I did a quick YouTube video of my 2013 F150, 6 switch panel and examples of how a relay can make life easier!

Note: the Carling/OTRATTW switches do not work in the 2015-current F150's,... but the same info, relay recommendations and switch function is the SAME as the KIC (Keep It Clean)switches used in your switch panels.

YouTube Link:


Any questions, feel free to email me at: lethalweapon09@yahoo.com

Thanks,
Brett
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KustomFX

iTrader: (3)

Here's a couple pics of the new round switch, MESH REPLACEMENT switch panels.

The customer opted for the OZNIUM brand 25mm (OD) which require the 3/4" (19mm) round hole size.

2 different sizes of the round hole switch panels are available: 3/4" (19mm).... and 16mm (5/8").

At this moment, I currently do not stock any of the round hole type of switches, mainly to the fact of the numerous choices.... but that may change in the near future!

The KIC (Keep it Clean) switches are a very popular choice due to the fact of the sleek look plus a lifetime warranty, so I have no thoughts of changing from those awesome switches.

Here's pics of the round switch MESH REPLACEMENT switch panel installed:







Thanks,
Brett
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Lifted4Fun

Nice switch plates

Robert Parks

Still no way to use this on a truck with the panaramic roof and all the extra stuff????

KustomFX

iTrader: (3)

Hi,

Unfortunately, not really.

There simply is no room to do so.

I've had a few customers that had the interior sensors in the mesh simply pull the sensors off the OEM mesh and tape them up out of the way..... and go with the MESH REPLACEMENT switch panel.

I've not heard of any adverse affects and there are still the 2 other downward facing sensors still.

But space is definitely restricted on the 2015-2017 trucks. Below is a pick of a headliner switch panel mount and you can see the clearance & fit issue if you have a moonroof:



If you DON'T have a moonroof, these work great!!! (Especially for the guys without rear slider equipped trucks).


And the cubby on the DVR side is low and angles away from you, making it an awkward area for any switches and you'd be looking at the top of the switches, not the front face of it,... so I've never taken any interest in designing one for that area.

For as big as our trucks are, I wish there was a better answer for a full out equipped truck and wanting to keep the 2 sensors in the front of the MESH in the upper console.

Thanks,
Brett

tstranger

I'm thinking of ordering one of these switch panels for my 2015 F150. They look very clean and you do great work. How much would this run me? I'm going to replace the mesh since I only have the auto rear window.
Thanks

KustomFX

iTrader: (3)

Thank you & many will also tell you that pics don't do them justice!!

Typically, these switch panels can cost anywhere from $125-$150 depending on your options and power cable length.

Shipping is free in the USA (Canada shipping is additional).

Email me directly at: lethalweapon09@yahoo.com and I can give you an exact quote.

Thanks,
Brett
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