Rear breaks
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 198
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From: Kansas
Rear breaks
I have a 97 4x4 and tonight I noticed break fluid sprayed on the inside of the right rear tire. I had my wife pump the breaks but I didn't see any leaks. Does anyone know where it might be coming from? thanks
Resident A-hole
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,098
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From: Tallahassee
First of all are you sure its BRAKE fluid not gear oil? Is it a rear drum setup or rear disc? If its a Disc BRAKE setup then look at the hose and caliper for BRAKE fluid. If its drum BRAKES then take the drum off and inspect the wheel cylinder. If its drum BRAKES then pinch the rubber cap on the wheel cylinder and see if fluid comes out. If not then its prolly gear oil and a bad axle seal.
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,805
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From: Cape Girardeau MO
eh, er, not meaning to offend but probably doing so anyways - if you haven't had a drum off before, perhaps you should consider letting someone else work on, or at least to advise you up close and in person, about working on brakes.
I, in my own little warped world, consider brakes and steering to be top priorities as far as proper operation. I figure that as long as I can steer and can stop on demand, there isn't a whole lot of trouble left to get into.
With that caveat being said, the drums should pop right off, perhaps with the additional help of a BFH (big flippin' hammer), preferably rubber to prevent sparking and shrapnel. HOWEVER, I'm not sure whether or not your vintage had retaining screws securing the drum to the hub - if so, these would have to be removed, and from my CJ Jeep experiences, they can be a booger to back out. Also, if the drum linings are worn in, there could be a ridge on the drum that would require the lining adjusting screw to be backed off, backing the linings away from the drum, before the drum will clear the linings enough to come off.
If the drum doesn't pop off after a couple of love taps, look for the retaining screws, or resign yourself to backing off the linings through the port on the backing plate.
Once you get the drum off, it should be readily apparent what kind of leak you have - axle seal failure or wheel cylinder leakage, considering the leakage you've seen.
I, in my own little warped world, consider brakes and steering to be top priorities as far as proper operation. I figure that as long as I can steer and can stop on demand, there isn't a whole lot of trouble left to get into.
With that caveat being said, the drums should pop right off, perhaps with the additional help of a BFH (big flippin' hammer), preferably rubber to prevent sparking and shrapnel. HOWEVER, I'm not sure whether or not your vintage had retaining screws securing the drum to the hub - if so, these would have to be removed, and from my CJ Jeep experiences, they can be a booger to back out. Also, if the drum linings are worn in, there could be a ridge on the drum that would require the lining adjusting screw to be backed off, backing the linings away from the drum, before the drum will clear the linings enough to come off.
If the drum doesn't pop off after a couple of love taps, look for the retaining screws, or resign yourself to backing off the linings through the port on the backing plate.
Once you get the drum off, it should be readily apparent what kind of leak you have - axle seal failure or wheel cylinder leakage, considering the leakage you've seen.
08 February TOTM
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,184
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From: Dumfries, VA Member: #77
eh, er, not meaning to offend but probably doing so anyways - if you haven't had a drum off before, perhaps you should consider letting someone else work on, or at least to advise you up close and in person, about working on brakes.
I, in my own little warped world, consider brakes and steering to be top priorities as far as proper operation. I figure that as long as I can steer and can stop on demand, there isn't a whole lot of trouble left to get into.
With that caveat being said, the drums should pop right off, perhaps with the additional help of a BFH (big flippin' hammer), preferably rubber to prevent sparking and shrapnel. HOWEVER, I'm not sure whether or not your vintage had retaining screws securing the drum to the hub - if so, these would have to be removed, and from my CJ Jeep experiences, they can be a booger to back out. Also, if the drum linings are worn in, there could be a ridge on the drum that would require the lining adjusting screw to be backed off, backing the linings away from the drum, before the drum will clear the linings enough to come off.
If the drum doesn't pop off after a couple of love taps, look for the retaining screws, or resign yourself to backing off the linings through the port on the backing plate.
Once you get the drum off, it should be readily apparent what kind of leak you have - axle seal failure or wheel cylinder leakage, considering the leakage you've seen.
I, in my own little warped world, consider brakes and steering to be top priorities as far as proper operation. I figure that as long as I can steer and can stop on demand, there isn't a whole lot of trouble left to get into.
With that caveat being said, the drums should pop right off, perhaps with the additional help of a BFH (big flippin' hammer), preferably rubber to prevent sparking and shrapnel. HOWEVER, I'm not sure whether or not your vintage had retaining screws securing the drum to the hub - if so, these would have to be removed, and from my CJ Jeep experiences, they can be a booger to back out. Also, if the drum linings are worn in, there could be a ridge on the drum that would require the lining adjusting screw to be backed off, backing the linings away from the drum, before the drum will clear the linings enough to come off.
If the drum doesn't pop off after a couple of love taps, look for the retaining screws, or resign yourself to backing off the linings through the port on the backing plate.
Once you get the drum off, it should be readily apparent what kind of leak you have - axle seal failure or wheel cylinder leakage, considering the leakage you've seen.
Add to this, make sure the E-brake is not set
That being said, make sure you chalk your wheels and use jack stands. Do not jack the rear up at the pumpkin (center of the axle). Jack up each side and set you jack stands under the axle. Get yourself a Chilton's or Haynes manual to guide you. They have pictures to help show you as you go.