Possible electrical problem
07-30-2008, 06:54 PM
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Possible electrical problem
Hey, this isn't exactly how I wanted my first post to be, but what the heck, this is a F150 website and most other places didn't give much advice so I thought I would ask around here. The specs are a 92' F150 2wd, I-6 300 c.i., auto tranny. It has been old reliable with 220,000 on the ticker. Probably lower because the motor I guess was out of a 95.
Well the past week the girlfriend went to back it up and it stalled, which it normally does if you don't give it a little bit of gas right away. Well it died so I told her I would back it up, I went to restart it and white smoke came out from the drivers side corner of the dash, it still smells real bad. So someone on Greatlakes4x4.com told me to check the ignition switch, we got a brand new one, still the same problem. This is what it does:
Engine Cranks, just doesn't fire.
Before I had the dash ripped apart it had a check engine light, so we got a code reader and it just constantly beeped, so we thought it was the code reader, so we went and bought the same one, and it did the same thing!
Fuel pump will stay on as long as the key is in the run position, or if it doesn't turn on it turns on a long time after you turn the key on.
Fuel rail does have pressure as long as the fuel pump kicked on.
There is no spark whatsoever.
We checked all the fuses in the cab fuse box and checked all in the power distribution box as did we replace a few of the relays in the box.
There are no apparent burnt wires.
Someone give me some help please, its going on vacation sunday!
Well the past week the girlfriend went to back it up and it stalled, which it normally does if you don't give it a little bit of gas right away. Well it died so I told her I would back it up, I went to restart it and white smoke came out from the drivers side corner of the dash, it still smells real bad. So someone on Greatlakes4x4.com told me to check the ignition switch, we got a brand new one, still the same problem. This is what it does:
Engine Cranks, just doesn't fire.
Before I had the dash ripped apart it had a check engine light, so we got a code reader and it just constantly beeped, so we thought it was the code reader, so we went and bought the same one, and it did the same thing!
Fuel pump will stay on as long as the key is in the run position, or if it doesn't turn on it turns on a long time after you turn the key on.
Fuel rail does have pressure as long as the fuel pump kicked on.
There is no spark whatsoever.
We checked all the fuses in the cab fuse box and checked all in the power distribution box as did we replace a few of the relays in the box.
There are no apparent burnt wires.
Someone give me some help please, its going on vacation sunday!
07-30-2008, 07:53 PM
#2
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Welcome to the site!
Suggest to check the voltage at the coil. IIRC, there should be 12V at all times on the (+) terminal when the ignition is on. If voltage is present, then you have an ignition problem - such as the TFI, the stator inside the distributor, a faulty coil, etc. If voltage is not present, then will need to chase the power feed to the coil.
By 'ignition switch' - did you replace the keyed switch in the column, or the switch block on the column down by the brake pedal?
The fuel pump thing doesn't sound right either - it may be a related issue or something totally different. Suggest to first work to re-establish spark - solve one problem at a time.
'92 should still be OBD-I. My Actron code reader will beep constantly when first plugged in - have to flip the switch and turn the ignition on in a given sequence. This is one area where it's good to read the specific manual first. The KOER portion of the test requires a brake pedal stomp and a steering wheel twist at various points during the test. However, if you can't get the truck started - you're stuck with the KOEO test only at this point.
Good luck, and keep us posted on what you find.
Suggest to check the voltage at the coil. IIRC, there should be 12V at all times on the (+) terminal when the ignition is on. If voltage is present, then you have an ignition problem - such as the TFI, the stator inside the distributor, a faulty coil, etc. If voltage is not present, then will need to chase the power feed to the coil.
By 'ignition switch' - did you replace the keyed switch in the column, or the switch block on the column down by the brake pedal?
The fuel pump thing doesn't sound right either - it may be a related issue or something totally different. Suggest to first work to re-establish spark - solve one problem at a time.
'92 should still be OBD-I. My Actron code reader will beep constantly when first plugged in - have to flip the switch and turn the ignition on in a given sequence. This is one area where it's good to read the specific manual first. The KOER portion of the test requires a brake pedal stomp and a steering wheel twist at various points during the test. However, if you can't get the truck started - you're stuck with the KOEO test only at this point.
Good luck, and keep us posted on what you find.
07-30-2008, 09:59 PM
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my friend had me looking at the wrong computer (abs) we opened it up and it looked fine, I found out it was the wrong computer and found the real computer, upon opening it I found a broken pin in the harness and it was charred, I pulled out the computer and opened it, the whole thing was pretty blackened, some of the plastic was melted......
so I found the problem...now my parents are just trying to find a computer for it in a hurry because they are taking it sunday for a vacation....btw if anyone has one let me know!
its a 92' I-6, Automatic, 2wd, no cruise, no air, rear abs...if that makes a difference, pretty much bone stock, and plain jane
so I found the problem...now my parents are just trying to find a computer for it in a hurry because they are taking it sunday for a vacation....btw if anyone has one let me know!
its a 92' I-6, Automatic, 2wd, no cruise, no air, rear abs...if that makes a difference, pretty much bone stock, and plain jane