Oil for New Truck
03-06-2013, 09:41 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Oil for New Truck
So my first oil changed i went to Royal Purple 5w30, but at a $100 with the filter, Im rethinking and wondering whats everyone using on New trucks. Should i go back to reg oil or stick with synthetic?
03-06-2013, 10:20 PM
#3
0.9% is for suckers!
Never been a fan of royal purple. I went Redline for a while but always used Mobil 1. Walmart 5qt jug is like $26-27. Get another qt and an OEM filter and you've got as good as it gets for $40.
03-06-2013, 11:00 PM
#4
Own a '93 F-150 Lightning, 5.8 liter engine with 155,000+ miles. Used Mobile 1 since I got the truck @ about 16,000 miles. No leaks, no oil consumption. It's also been run hard a few times
Have also had two Expeditions, both with 150,000+ when they were sold. Used Mobile 1 in both and had absolutely no problems with either vehicle. One of the Expeditions now has well over 200,000 and still on the original motor.
Will take new Ecoboost in for first change this weekend at about 2500 miles. will change again at about 5000 and will be going to Mobile 1.
Have also had two Expeditions, both with 150,000+ when they were sold. Used Mobile 1 in both and had absolutely no problems with either vehicle. One of the Expeditions now has well over 200,000 and still on the original motor.
Will take new Ecoboost in for first change this weekend at about 2500 miles. will change again at about 5000 and will be going to Mobile 1.
03-07-2013, 02:54 PM
#5
As long as the oil meets the Ford Spec for your engine. For my 5.0 i found that the oil that met the spec was a minimum of Semi Synthetic to Full Synthetic.
WSS-M2C930–A is the spec for mine.
Check your owners manual in the "Maintenance and Specifications" section.
You will do more damage to a motor on a cold start than driving from Vancouver to Newfoundland
WSS-M2C930–A is the spec for mine.
Check your owners manual in the "Maintenance and Specifications" section.
You will do more damage to a motor on a cold start than driving from Vancouver to Newfoundland
03-07-2013, 03:20 PM
#6
I run castrol gtx syntec blend and I like to use a purolator filters because they have a grip all the way around them.. Makes it easier to take off since the filter is a little hard to get to.
just my .02
just my .02
03-07-2013, 03:32 PM
#7
Senior Member
I've run OEM 5W-20 Syn blend and FL500S filter in my 2011 5.0 since I bought it. 40,000 miles later I'm still doing the same thing. I usually change it every 5,000 miles or so.
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03-07-2013, 03:45 PM
#9
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Mobile 1 full synthetic. You need to read what old Kit posted here about oils; that boy is good! Aw, I'll go ahead and paste it here:
Motor Oil
Many of you have posted opinions about synthetic oil claiming that since you don't tow, or don't work the truck hard and change it sooner than ~10,000 miles or so that there is "no need" to use a full synthetic oil, or that you would no derive any benefits if you did use synthetic oil.
That really is not quite correct. Many people overlook one important fact about full PAO synthetic oil: It does not contain any of the parrafinic elements that make up the base of all conventional and "blended" oils.
Parrafin, of course is otherwise known as "wax". All blends are in the range of 85-90% dino, if not even higher, so there is still an abundance of wax present in blends.
The wax base in conventional oil (dino) is what gives it the neccesary "robustness' to withstand the extreme and diverse operating temperatures and pressures. Unfortunately, the wax is also the main contributor to sludge build-up within an engine.
If you only remember one thing about engine oil and engine cleanliness, it is this:
Sludge is far and away the #1 cause of engine failure.
All name-brand dino oils have advanced additive packages to prevent and combat sludge, but it still eventually occurs no matter what you do.
It takes (basically) four things toi make sludge in an engine:
Air
Heat
Petroleum
Water
Air and heat are givens, as they are simply the nature of an internal combustion engine.
Water comes from moisture developed when operating an internal combustion engine, and can be controlled somewhat and dealt with with a variety of oil additives and engine devices (PCV system primarily), but they are not anywhere near 100% effective either, so water is also a "given".
However, a full PAO synthetic oil does not derive from parrafinic- based petroleum.
It is sourced from the family of ethylene and propane gasses. Absolutely zero wax content.
A Note: because all motor oils ( dino, blends and synthetics) require additive packages, and because all additive packages DO contain small but still-present petroleum products, there is no such thing as a modern motor oil with absolute ZERO wax content. Full synthetic is very, very close, but not quite zero.
Dino motor oil does not have to be "used up" or dirty before sludge starts to occur: It happens ALL THE TIME as you are operating your engine. The additives are designed to keep it in check until you cahnge the oil, but it still accumulates.
The big advantage to full synthetic is that because it has (nearly) no wax in it, it basically makes (nearly) NO SLUDGE in your engine.
This will make your engine far outlast any engine run in similar circumstances on dino oil.
Now....if you plan on getting rid of the truck around or before about 100,000 miles, then it may well indeed be a waste of your money to use synthetic. Modern (Ford) engines with modern dino oils are well capabale of reaching 100K with little or no excessive degradation due to sludge build-up. You would probably not notice any driveability issues during that time.
However...if you are mostly concerned with making your engine last forever (or as close as is possible) and plan on keeping it forever, then a full synthetic is probably highly recommended for you.
Another note: All "full synthetics' are not the same:
PAO (polyalphaolephin) synthetics are a Group-V base stock derived from non-wax based sources.
Group-IV parrafinic based stocks are derived from parrafinic sources, but go through many expensive extra-refining steps (iso-propane dewaxing, severe hydro-treating, etc...) to give them the ability to perform nearly as well as a PAO synthetic. It still has wax in it, and the FTC allows Group-IV oils to also be sold and advertised as "full synthetic". In reality it is not.
If you are interested in that story, look up the Mobil v. Castrol (Syntec) story from about 20 years ago.
Group-IV are very good, but they still have wax in them.
Mobil 1 has always been a full PAO. ExxonMobil now sells in addition to Mobil 1 a Group-IV product called "Mobil Super-Syn Full Synthetic" which is only to go head-to-head with other Group-IV oils. (price point stuff)
Amsoil has for many years switched back and forth indiscrimently between full PAO and Group-IV in their line of "Full Synthetic" oils, depending on where they get the best deal from thier suppliers. They took a lot of heat for that from industry insiders, and because of that, a few years ago they too introduced 2 lines of "full synthetics", one a full PAO and the other a Group -IV.
Basically, a clean engine lasts far longer than a sludged up engine, and nothing keeps an engine cleaner than a good full synthetic oil.
Motor Oil
Many of you have posted opinions about synthetic oil claiming that since you don't tow, or don't work the truck hard and change it sooner than ~10,000 miles or so that there is "no need" to use a full synthetic oil, or that you would no derive any benefits if you did use synthetic oil.
That really is not quite correct. Many people overlook one important fact about full PAO synthetic oil: It does not contain any of the parrafinic elements that make up the base of all conventional and "blended" oils.
Parrafin, of course is otherwise known as "wax". All blends are in the range of 85-90% dino, if not even higher, so there is still an abundance of wax present in blends.
The wax base in conventional oil (dino) is what gives it the neccesary "robustness' to withstand the extreme and diverse operating temperatures and pressures. Unfortunately, the wax is also the main contributor to sludge build-up within an engine.
If you only remember one thing about engine oil and engine cleanliness, it is this:
Sludge is far and away the #1 cause of engine failure.
All name-brand dino oils have advanced additive packages to prevent and combat sludge, but it still eventually occurs no matter what you do.
It takes (basically) four things toi make sludge in an engine:
Air
Heat
Petroleum
Water
Air and heat are givens, as they are simply the nature of an internal combustion engine.
Water comes from moisture developed when operating an internal combustion engine, and can be controlled somewhat and dealt with with a variety of oil additives and engine devices (PCV system primarily), but they are not anywhere near 100% effective either, so water is also a "given".
However, a full PAO synthetic oil does not derive from parrafinic- based petroleum.
It is sourced from the family of ethylene and propane gasses. Absolutely zero wax content.
A Note: because all motor oils ( dino, blends and synthetics) require additive packages, and because all additive packages DO contain small but still-present petroleum products, there is no such thing as a modern motor oil with absolute ZERO wax content. Full synthetic is very, very close, but not quite zero.
Dino motor oil does not have to be "used up" or dirty before sludge starts to occur: It happens ALL THE TIME as you are operating your engine. The additives are designed to keep it in check until you cahnge the oil, but it still accumulates.
The big advantage to full synthetic is that because it has (nearly) no wax in it, it basically makes (nearly) NO SLUDGE in your engine.
This will make your engine far outlast any engine run in similar circumstances on dino oil.
Now....if you plan on getting rid of the truck around or before about 100,000 miles, then it may well indeed be a waste of your money to use synthetic. Modern (Ford) engines with modern dino oils are well capabale of reaching 100K with little or no excessive degradation due to sludge build-up. You would probably not notice any driveability issues during that time.
However...if you are mostly concerned with making your engine last forever (or as close as is possible) and plan on keeping it forever, then a full synthetic is probably highly recommended for you.
Another note: All "full synthetics' are not the same:
PAO (polyalphaolephin) synthetics are a Group-V base stock derived from non-wax based sources.
Group-IV parrafinic based stocks are derived from parrafinic sources, but go through many expensive extra-refining steps (iso-propane dewaxing, severe hydro-treating, etc...) to give them the ability to perform nearly as well as a PAO synthetic. It still has wax in it, and the FTC allows Group-IV oils to also be sold and advertised as "full synthetic". In reality it is not.
If you are interested in that story, look up the Mobil v. Castrol (Syntec) story from about 20 years ago.
Group-IV are very good, but they still have wax in them.
Mobil 1 has always been a full PAO. ExxonMobil now sells in addition to Mobil 1 a Group-IV product called "Mobil Super-Syn Full Synthetic" which is only to go head-to-head with other Group-IV oils. (price point stuff)
Amsoil has for many years switched back and forth indiscrimently between full PAO and Group-IV in their line of "Full Synthetic" oils, depending on where they get the best deal from thier suppliers. They took a lot of heat for that from industry insiders, and because of that, a few years ago they too introduced 2 lines of "full synthetics", one a full PAO and the other a Group -IV.
Basically, a clean engine lasts far longer than a sludged up engine, and nothing keeps an engine cleaner than a good full synthetic oil.
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