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how to read check engine code in 1995 without obd2

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Old 05-07-2008, 09:38 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by herb1
Heres the post lucky37 posted when I needed to pull codes.I used a paper clip to jump from plug to plug.worked for me.hope it helps. """Here's how to read the codes using your check engine light (CEL). I'll describe the basic KOEO (Key On Engine Off) test:

First you'll need a piece of wire of some sorts to connect two terminals. You'll see what I mean.

With the engine off, pop the hood and find the EEC connecter, located on the left-hand fender closer to the firewall at the top edge of the engine compartment. It is a black connector not connected to anything, but it is clipped in a protective plastic piece. Unclip that connector (has 6 terminals) from the protective plastic piece.

Next to that connector is a small gray single connector in the same protective plastic piece. Unclip that as well.

Now looking at the larger connector with 6 terminals, oriented so that the 4-terminal row is facing down and 2-terminal row is facing up, stick the connecting wire into the top right terminal (right terminal of the 2-terminal row, oriented like I described). Stick the other end of the wire into the single gray connector.

Now turn the key to run (not to start) and read the codes. They will flash fairly quickly so get ready to write. How do you read them? I'll use 212 as an example: it will flash once, followed by a 1/2 second pause, then flash again to indicate "2", then a 2 second pause, then it will flash once to indicate "1", then a 2 second pause, then it will flash once with a 1/2 second pause, then again to indicate "2". There will be a 4 second pause in between codes.

When the KOEO codes are complete, there will be a 6 second pause, then a single flash, followed by a 6 second pause. Following the KOEO codes there will be "Continuous Codes" displayed in the same way as above.

If you want to clear the codes, simply unplug the jumper wire while the test is going on.

So that's how you do the basic KOEO test to get your codes."""
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1995 F150 XL, 5.0L V8, Reg Cab, Long Box, 2WD, single gas tank, 31x10.5 tires, 260,000km
That's the same thing I posted up higher. lol
Old 05-13-2008, 05:30 PM
  #12  
KAH
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Actually, I have found that if I go to Autozone right at opening time and ask
the manager, a member of the sales force ( usually a young kid ) will go to your truck and give a free test.

If you quietly slip the kid a couple of bucks for his next soda break, so much the better. They are not allowed to accept tips so do it discretely.

Worked for me every time so far.

Ken H.
Old 05-16-2008, 06:02 PM
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What I ment was you remove the battery cables and place them togather for a few seconds to reset the ECM.
Old 06-19-2008, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by KAH
Actually, I have found that if I go to Autozone right at opening time and ask
the manager, a member of the sales force ( usually a young kid ) will go to your truck and give a free test.

If you quietly slip the kid a couple of bucks for his next soda break, so much the better. They are not allowed to accept tips so do it discretely.

Worked for me every time so far.

Ken H.
Um, if I remember correctly, don't they have a sign on the front of the store saying that they do free code reading & diagnostics, as well as free tool rental, CEL reset, etc? No need to be discreet about it or offer tips or even go in right at opening - they will do it all the time for free because that's just one of the services that they offer.
Old 07-03-2008, 06:54 AM
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Um, if I remember correctly, don't they have a sign on the front of the store saying that they do free code reading & diagnostics, as well as free tool rental, CEL reset, etc? No need to be discreet about it or offer tips or even go in right at opening - they will do it all the time for free because that's just one of the services that they offer.


You are correct. But it has been my experience that if you
get to the parts store early before they get busy and treat the person
trying to help you with respect, the final results are usually more to
your liking. You should try it sometime.

Ken H.
Old 09-24-2011, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by HiFlow5 0
Here's a write up I did many years ago for Ford cars with OBD1, but should be pretty close for trucks. Enjoy!


Locate the self test connectors on the drivers side inner fender well. You can find these, by finding the one which looks similar to the shape of a house. Hook up with a jumper wire as shown in the diagram below. Turn your key forward onto accessory (KOEO, key on, engine off), and wait for the codes. Codes will start with an 11 (meaning ok/done or ready) followed by any thrown codes, then will end with an 11. (note, that if no codes are thrown, and 11 will appear just once). Fix any codes from the KOEO test before you do the running test (KOER, key on, engine running). Finally when finished reset your cars computer, do this by disconnecting the negative side of the battery while leaving your headlights on for 20 minutes.
i do have check engine light, so i can just ust the jumper wire and do not need a volt meter?
Old 07-05-2014, 01:08 PM
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When I do this test, I get either a constantly illuminated check engine light or a constant voltage on the multimeter. No flashes. Anyone have an explanation?
Old 01-20-2017, 12:54 PM
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i have a trick use speaker male end terminals to plug into the eec and jump wire to the grey terminal you may have grind the edges down a little to get them to insert into receptacles easier instead of just the wires pushed in
Old 01-20-2017, 01:02 PM
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was wondering i have1995 f150 driving down roadway 60 mph allat once loss of power back fire through driver side engine exhaust loss of power mash fuel pedal to floor and goes to passing gear acceleration any ides or any body hear of this problem helpfulany ides
Old 01-20-2017, 01:52 PM
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Most stores are phasing out their OBD1 reading ability. If they have an OBD1 reader buy it, its better than counting flashes....

This would be your budget route,

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-F...ds=obd1+reader



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