Factory bed lighting
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Joined: Jul 2013
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Factory bed lighting
I recently tried to use my factory LED bed lighting (2017) and I was left in the dark. I verified the switch is good, then verified there is no power to the plug. The cargo light does come on, and I think I found a wiring diagram that implies the cargo lamp and the bed lighting are on the same fuse. I traced the wire from the left panel across the back of the truck to the right side where multiple wire bundles come together. About a year ago I had the rear bumper replaced after someone tapped me in the ***** end. It was really only the bumper that was replaced - no other damage. I'm wondering if maybe the shop missed a harness? Either way, I'm looking for some tips on where to go next.
Anyone have a wiring diagram that can confirm the bed lights should have power if the cargo lamp is working? And if so, can you give me some hints on maybe the route of the power for the bed lights? I plan on pulling the bumper off later so I can get a better view - I was out of time last night.
Anyone have a wiring diagram that can confirm the bed lights should have power if the cargo lamp is working? And if so, can you give me some hints on maybe the route of the power for the bed lights? I plan on pulling the bumper off later so I can get a better view - I was out of time last night.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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@RLXXI I saw you posted a wiring diagram in another thread related to RCS. Any chance you can share where you found that? I'm looking for the wiring diagram for factory bed lights in a 2017 f150 screw w/ 02A package. TIA.
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From: Big Easy
Unsure what you mean RCS but in any event if you want wiring diagrams I suggest you do what I did and buy the factory shop manual from www.helminc.com. You can also access online same info over at www.motorcraftservice.com. and click the "Service info" tab. Length of time best price is $22.00 for 3 days.
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I don't think I changed anything, but I did turn on the cargo light and the lights came on. However, the switch still doesn't do anything. I read someone saying those switches can go bad, but it seems to close contact based on the ohm-meter. I'm assuming that isn't like an old-school switch -- there isn't any power on either connector. I'm assuming that switch runs back the BCM (or some other module) to enable the lights. I need to compare/contrast to another one.