HughA

Good day, Forum guys and girls,
I'm about to tackle pulling the 4.6L from my 2005 F-150 xlt. Any recommendations on an ENGINE TILTER/LEVELER
to hook on to the engine with?
The Chiltons is a bit short on detail just saying "sling or chain".
Whitney's has:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/torin-big-red- ... 005g55u0j1
with a 1500 lb capacity
And Amazon has a bunch of similar ones.
Or I could go with the Hein-Werner HW93805 Blue Load Leveler - 3 Ton Capacity. It's only $1,374.20 FREE Shipping for Prime members!

Any sage advice and wisdom will be welcome!
Thanks,
Hugh

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Harbor fright..

Steve83

I'm a pro, and I never use one. It adds too much vertical drop to the hoist. A couple of ratchet straps are cheaper, easier, quicker, smaller to store, more-useful in other applications, & more-effective.

Phyer Phyter

Quite often you can rent tools from jobber parts stores. I would start there 1st.

HughA

Good ideas, guys
We got the intake manifold and radiator out today and I hope to get the engine lift this coming weekend. (but half of Sunday will be lost to visiting the mother-in-law). I agree the beam type load leveler will add too much height as the truck has a lift kit. I think I'll try a 4 point pick using chains in the back and two ratchet straps in front. I'll take some photos to show how it goes.

Hugh

Steve83

Let the air out of the front tires.

HughA

Good idea! After I'm done under the truck if the engine lift won't clear the frame across the front; I can drop the front 6 to 8 inches.

Thanks,
Hugh

HughA

Good evening, you Ford owners
Phase 1 is complete! The engine is out and on blocks in the garage. We pulled the wheels off which gave much better access than reaching over the tires. And I dropped the front down until the brake disks were a couple of inches off the pavement. That gave me plenty of room to lift the engine over the cross piece above the radiator. On the down side, I had to squeeze under the truck to get a couple of engine mount bolts out that I had missed.


passenger side motor mount. I took it loose from the block. Is that normal? Chiltons said to pull the engine mount cross bolts but then I could not slide the engine straight forward.


I used a chain in front to the alternator mounting holes and ratchet straps to the back. I think it would have been better with the straps to the front for adjusting tilt.

Phase 2 is ordering a rebuilt long block. Any recommendations? At the moment I am looking at Powertrain Products Inc which I got from another post and one through a local auto parts store (Carquest).

Any tips greatly appreciated. So far they have helped a lot!
Hugh

HughA

Good day, all
Still making progress on putting a re-manufactured engine in my 2005 4.6L STX. Here's a photo of it going in. You can see how tight it is front to back but we took it slow and it fit in with no major issue. The blue ratchet straps worked very well. I cut 2 individual links of chain to make eyes for the front pick points on the heads.

First question: what angle do you want the engine at when you first push it back to the transmission? Seems like there are two possible ways:1. Bolt the motor mounts and exhaust manifolds to the block and then use a very seep angle because you need to get the mounts to line up with the brackets on the frame. Advantage is you can easily torque the exhaust stud nuts to spec. while the engine is on the shop floor. But can you actually get the motor mounts into the frame brackets that way? Also, I was concerned about lining the torque converter studs up with the flex plate holes. I wasn't sure so I went with the below method.2. Put the motor mounts in the frame brackets first. This let me hang the engine almost level and slide it straight back. Once the block was mated to the transmission; I bolted the motor mount plates to the block. I left the exhaust manifolds off so I had access but could could only get a torque wrench on some of the bolts into the block. Now I am working on putting the exhaust manifolds on and that will be an issue. No way to torque the nuts and there is one nut on the driver's side I have yet to get on as the stud is right above the motor mount! Any sage advise from the experienced would be welcome! I'll keep you posted.

Hugh

Steve83

How did you take it out?

Generally: raise the trans (or leave it where it was when you pulled the engine) so it aligns with the engine OFF the frame perches; stab the engine back onto the trans & bolt them up; lower the engine onto the mounts/perches.

Did you pull the wheelwells? That made everything MUCH easier on my CV:


(phone app link)